noob questions!

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I have a few noobie questions so instead of creating a thread for each I'll just lump them together since (I know) they're easy questions for you pro's to answer or point me to a thread that I've missed which would have answered my question.

1- Front MC: I read in the MC DIY thread in tech section that they don't suggest replacing one brake part without redoing the entire brake system. I bought the Mikesxs front MC to replace the ugly stock ones on my xs650se. I will eventually be going stainless steel brake lines next spring. So should I hold off doing a front MC change until I have the SS parts to change them all together?

2- Electrical: I'd really love to get into the electrical connections and pop them open and clean replace whatever needs updating. But when I look at the connectors I have no idea how to open them without destroying them. What's the trick?

3- Tires: If you look at my album in my signature, I think I have spoke wheels? I had the tires changed and the guy said there's a tube in your tire. Do you want to keep it or not? I said it's prob not important, throw it away. After reading a few tire threads I still have not got the answer to my situation which is "Is it ok to ride tubeless on spoke wheels?" My wheels do not show any markings that say safe for tubeless. Btw, this is my gf's bike and she's not going over 60 mph or taking any crazy turns.

4- Valve covers: PO put some white sealer on all the valve covers. Sealed them all tight. I don't think that's recommended, and now how do I unseal them?

5- Rust: every once in a while I come upon some rusty parts. I've used many products and want to know what you guys use for your rusty parts. I've tried white vinegar, CLR, Tymes cold parts cleaner, and the best that's worked for me is CLR.
 
Definitely not an expert, but ill try to help out if i can.

1. Im assuming MC is master cylinder... I tried everything i could to keep my front brakes to save money. i have two calipers and two master cylinders and a whole mess of brake line and i could never get my stock brakes to become useful. i tried to drill out the rotors and that helped a little, but i ended up ditching them entirely. I'm using the brembo conversion and an EBC rotor now. anything i have from the stock system i don't need, so if that will help you let me know.

2. The electrical connections you're referring aren't really intended to be disassembled. You won't likely get them apart without breaking. You should be able to get them cleaned up, especially if they weren't sitting open for too long. you can always replace the plugs if you want? but for the price of a wiring harness at $59, id just replace it haha

3. Spoke tires need Tubes... you can use a tube type tire with a tube or a tubeless tires with a tube. BUT YOU CANNOT REUSE AN OLD TUBE. speed is irrelevant. never half-ass tires, its just not worth it.

Second, the red bike in that album has Mag Wheels. if thats the case, somewhere on one one of those spokes it will indicate tube/tubless wheel type.

4. Wide tip screwdriver and gently coercion. then take a razor blade and scrape that mess off. Sealing them tight definitely keeps them from leaking... but i adjust my valves every season.

5. Rusty parts. depends on the part. if it is the frame? wire brush and rustoleum... thats temporary though. i usually end up pulling everything off and powder coating. i keep seeming to take my projects too far, but thats just me. if its chrome? replace or replate. I'm honestly not sure how to clean it up without it still looking terrible. if you mean bolts and stuff? carb/brake cleaner works wonders with a wire brush.

Ultimately, without knowing what parts you're trying to clean, there are simply too many responses to that answer haha.

I know that may not have given you much, but i can probably help you with stock parts if you need them. I'm attaching the bike from your album, if this is it, you have spoke wheels
 
Hi slate,
brake M/C:-
it ain't how it looks, it's how it works.
The '78's stocker's piston is too big to give a good feel with the stock single caliper.
Replace the stock M/C with an aftermarket M/C that has a smaller (between 11mm & 13mm) piston diameter to get that sweet feel.
The main reason to do the entire system at once is so you only have to go through the hassle of bleeding the system once.
One thing you can do is drill that front brake disk full of holes (or swap in an XS11 slotted brake disk) I drilled mine, it does help.
Electrical connections:-
If they are meant to come apart they should pry apart with your fingers. If you gotta use pliers you are doing it wrong or that particular connection ain't meant to come apart.
Tires:-
unless they are disc wheels all wheels have spokes. Your link don't work for me but presumably your bike has 7-spoke cast wheels because (Except for modern BMWs) wire-spoked wheels can't use tubeless tires.
All the Yamaha cast wheels I've ever used have worked OK with tubeless tires.
There's raised lettering on the spoke webs tells all about who made them but the lettering that says the wheel is OK for tubeless is letter-stamped.
If it ain't there you take your chances on whether tubeless will work or not.
Put the tubeless on and check it's pressure in a month. If it looses more than 1 PSI, put a tube in.
Removing valve covers:-
Very carefully use a piece of wood and a BFH on their edges at ~45º to the gasket surface to tap them up and off.
Rust removal:-
CLR? OK. Most likely in conjunction with massive amounts of elbow grease.

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That is a nice looking stocker. Too often the po's will take a factory colour and paint it flat black, one guy even used bed liner on his tins!
Re electrical joints, if you are talking about the plastic covered bullet connectors, they just pull apart. If you mean the white plastic blocks, they do too, but some have locking tabs that you have to depress before they separate.
My respectful suggestion is to clean up what you have rather than buying new, or before too long those dollars add up.
On my 78 SE, I had to buy a new harness because the last guy did a reverse polarity on it and not only let all the smoke out of it but also most of the insulation! Installing it is a task, there's lots of connections and routing and usually some amendments so it is not a quick fix.
Since the m/c is at the start of the system, you could put the new one on and not contaminate it with use. But you still have to bleed the system and if the calipers are sticky, you will be pulling them apart and kitting them so you might as well do it top to bottom. Thirty five year old brakes are not something you want to send the gf out on.

Good luck with your bike, think twice, spend once.
 
On the wiring, if you want to remove the metal ends on the wires from the connectors, it's not hard.
If you pull the two halves apart and look into the connector you will see the female or male parts of the connection. Look closely and you will see a small rectangle next to the metal piece.
I use a common paper clip, the larger size works better, unbend it a bit and use a hammer to flatten the end a bit, Just enough so it fits in that small rectangle. Slip this Flattened end down into the rectangle, If done properly it will depress the lock tab enough so the wire end comes out.
It may take a bit of wiggling to get the things apart the first time you try but once apart you will see better just how the lock tab works to hold the wire end in place, making getting more apart easier.
Just do one wire or one side of the plug at a time, this way you can use the other side of the plug as a guide it properly replace the wires in the plugs.
Leo
 
Nice explanation Leo. I can almost visualize it :D
I'm waiting for a new headlight from the dealer which will arrive Nov. 5, in the meantime I'll practice on all those connectors behind the headlight. One plug at a time :)
 
Btw I ordered a Clymer manual two weeks ago and they're back ordered so not sure when I'll get it. I hope it will be more useful than Haynes I have now. Hate that book with the passion of a million Mel Gibsons.
 
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