Oh boy

82heritage

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Hi guys,

So I dug into replacing my starter gear and have hit a snag.

I replaced the gear and that part went well. The issue was the reassembly. Now when I put the clutch back on the plates aren't tight. They can by moved by hand. I snugged everything down on this side to no avail, does anyone have a blow out diagram of the clutch setup? When I pull the clutch lever now nothing happens on the clutch side, is that a problem or is it because there's no oil in her right now.

Second the kick start lever engages the gears but will not drop down when I go to push on it. I was doing that just to see if I had it in correctly.

Sorry for the dumb questions but this is my first tear down.


Thanks,
Mike
 
Another way to put it is, should the clutch plates be loose like that? I would assume not?

I just can't figure out where I went wrong on the clutch I thought I redid it all correctly. So is there a diagram I can look at?

Thanks guys,
Mike
 
5twins diagram
ClutchWashers.jpg
 
hi ya mike been there done that,first off the pic.of the clutch assy is wrong in all manuals, should be a post in teach menu the kick starter are a bit tricky till you no how to do it my method fit kick lever loosly on to the spline insert assy into postion about half way so that you can hook return sring onto lug with out ingauging the gear mech. now push kick lever about 1\2 way around then push it in so that the gears ingauge then give the end of the shaft a bit of a hit with a hammer let it return to its postion now gently remove the kick lever making sure the shaft dosent come with it,when fitting right case back on it shoud go all the way on ie the gasget is firm between case & engine all the way around .If its got a bit of gap its proably the kicker shaft,do not try to get the cases togeather by doing up the bolts as the case will crack maybe check yours,have you got all the ball bearings in the clutch push rod shaft including the 1 in the left cover, should be crimtted in but mine falls out everytime I remove it good luck with it Steve
 
Thanks for all the help guys I will take it apart again tomorrow morning. I didn't even notice all these washers and items! I'll have to take a look around. I tried to be as cautious as possible taking it apart. So there should be no play in the clutch plates right?
 
So I pulled the clutch back off and found a broken washer. When I pull the clutch lever that little center peice with the ball behind it goes in and out. So I assume thats ok? The basket that all the clutch plates rest in ( the basket held in by the 1' 1/16 nut) had play in it. I could push it back and fourth maybe 1/8th of an inch. Is that supposed to happen or am I missing something.

Thank you,
Mike
 
If I recall correctly my basket had a little play in it also. I followed the above diagram and everything appears ok (I haven't ridden the bike yet). Most importantly make sure all the balls are present and that the sequence and type of washers is correct.
 
This is related to a problem I'm having. PUlled to right case (not much effort needed) and fixed the kicker. Did nothiong else , now the case won't go back on due to the big gear of the tachometer mechanism impinging the the nut attaching the tachometer drive gear to the shaft of the oil pump gear. Its like everything moved while my back was turned. Two hours of monkey with it gently, including turning the engine over very slowly with the kicker while holding firm pressure on the case, has not done the trick. Anyone else have this trouble? What's my next move??
 
Thanks, that makes me feel better. Your clutch packs weren't loose though right? Mine were moveable with my finger which makes me nervous. Hmmm

Can't recall them being loose. I do have heavy duty clutch springs though.

Put it back together correctly but leave the right side cover off and you can watch your clutch pack as you operate the clutch lever. the clutch pack should move away from the bike just a couple of millimeters as you squeeze the lever.
 
This is related to a problem I'm having. PUlled to right case (not much effort needed) and fixed the kicker. Did nothiong else , now the case won't go back on due to the big gear of the tachometer mechanism impinging the the nut attaching the tachometer drive gear to the shaft of the oil pump gear. Its like everything moved while my back was turned. Two hours of monkey with it gently, including turning the engine over very slowly with the kicker while holding firm pressure on the case, has not done the trick. Anyone else have this trouble? What's my next move??

Sounds like you are going to have to continue with re-aligning the various gears little by little.

I would take the plugs out of the motor to reduce compression and turn the motor bit by bit from the alternator side with a socket on the rotor nut. Keep trying the case till the tach gear drive will mesh. Get the kicker in place first.
 
I figured thats got to be the way to get it done. Must not have been holding my mouth right..I'll get back to now that I've a little breakfast and got over being pissed.
 
Ok so as soon as I get a replacement washer in I am going to re-tackle this issue.

So my question is what primarily keeps the clutch plate under tension so that they only get pushed back when you squeeze the clutch lever. I think the issue is no tension on the plates themselves thats why when I squeeze the lever nothing happens.

Is their a good way to torque the bolts down and I am doing it wrong or ?

Thanks again guys,
Mike
 
What keeps the clutch plates under tension......................the 6 clutch springs. The clutch pushrod only pushes the plates about 0.079". That is very small, so don't expect to see a large amount of motion. The clutch must be adjusted correctly at the worm gear and at the lever in order to get that motion.

Yes, the 6 screws holding the pressure plate are very difficult to torque properly, because they are phillip heads.(the worst design ever made). That's why there is a mod that converts those phillips to allen head cap screws.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3408

Those 6 screws are only 6 mm, so they only get torqued to 6.5 ft-lbs.
 
Thank you, I just ordered replacement allen head style bolts for the clutch. I have been studying the diagrams and all that. It looks like I line the clutch plates up based on a notch on the clutch plate housing.

Hopefully I will have a working clutch by the time this is all done.

Thanks again,
Mike
 
So I put the clutch all together as it is supposed to be but found it is very hard to move the clutch after I put it all together. Could I have tightened the clutch springs down too much ?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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