Oh dang, the chain...

[trance]

So, I'm in process of removing the engine. Gotta take the chain off. Bike has been hardtailed and stretched, so it's no suprise that the chain has two master links. What was a suprise is that ONE OF THE MASTER LINKS HAS NO G*D*MN CLIP ON IT!!

Dear Previous Owner had been riding it with a chain set to slip off at any minute. Glad I caught that one...

So, I'm in the market for a new master link, or clip.

Or should I just replace the whole chain?

 

[jd750ace]

Replace the chain. Count all of the links, and order accordingly. One sideplate equals one link. The clips cannot be re-used, and that is most likely what happened. That, or installed backward. Riveted link is the way to go. I've ran clip type masters, but was never completely comfortable with them.

 

[trance]

cool, thanks

 

[tonyc]

I have been running clip-on master links for 50 years and never had a failure.

 

[jd750ace]

I know millions of racing miles have been turned on clip type masters, but I rivet for a living!

 

[trance]

OK, then I suppose I have 3 questions:

1) how do I know if my current chain should be replaced?

2) What chain do I need? 520 or 530? They are just different widths right? I assume I have a stock chain right now.

3) If I replace just the master link - which one do I need? I see about 4 choices on mikes XS

 

[cra-z1]

I think the sprockets are different from the 520 and 530 chain. I would replace sprockets and chain as a set. If he was running with two master links and was missing a clip I bet the sprockets are worn also.

 

[jd750ace]

There's a good chance your current chain has been used for experimentation to get the length right, witnessed by the 2 masters. Odds are, the wrong length cahin was purchased, and a section of old chain was spliced in between the master links. Stock chain is a 530. you can't run a 530 chain on 520 sprockets. It will wallow and cut your sprockets. The 520 chain won't fit over 530 sprockets. If you get a new chain and sprockets, all your issues will be settled, and there will be no question about what you are running.

My $0.02 in the jar bud.

So I would say, your current chain should be replaced based on the fact that you don't know what it is, you don't know how long it's been there, and there is exactly zero GOOD reasons for finding 2 masters on a chain. There are overall length measurements where you measure the distance between an certain number of links to determine wear. 5 percent elongation is considered worn out. I'll find a page on that for ya and post it.

Here ya go. http://www.sprocketsunlimited.com/Chainspecifications.html

 

[willyguzzi53]

I have been running clip-on master links for 50 years and never had a failure.

A+ to that. But I'm just a kid and have been riding for only 40 years. Back in the Harley days most of us always carried a spare master link tied up in our boot laces. Never needed it but it was just part of the uniform like bandanas and chaps.

 

[willyguzzi53]

Now that I say that I will most certainly throw a master link this week.

 

[Phail]

When I got my hardtail bike the chain was the same way. But I had a old stretched chain and a tight section of chain. I replaced the whole chain and both sprockets. I wish now that I went with the 520 because now my chain is hitting the back wheel.

 

[XSLeo]

A chain is sized by link pitch and width. The digits in the chain size represent this things. In a 530 chain the 5 is the pitch in 1/8's of an inch. So 5 is 5/8 inches. The links are 5/8 inch long center of pin to center of pin.
The 3 means the width in 1/8's of an inch. So the 3 means 3/8 inch wide. The 0 is just there, no meaning.
A 520 is 5/8 long by 2/8 wide or 1/4 wide.
Now the rear sprockets of either size are just flat sporckets. With one flat side against the wheel.
The front 530 sprocket is a flat 3/8 inch thick.
The 520 front sprocket is 3/8 inch thick so it fits the shaft on the trans mission. It is 1/4 inch thick out where the teeth are. It's built with the difference, 1/8 inch all on one side. They get mounted with the flat side toward the case, the 1/8difference toward the nut. This lets the front and rear sprockets line up.
Now with this set up both a 520 chain and a 530 chain run the same distance from the rear wheel.
If your 530 chain hits the tire a 520 will too.
Leo

 

[Phail]

Thanks for the info XSLeo. I didn't know about that. I'm starting to think it's more of my chain tensioner now as the cause of the chain flapping all over the place. I think I need a stronger spring or something. It was really bad tonight on the way home so I'm parking the bike until I can get it figured out.

I also think my rear tire is too big. I'm not really a fan of it. It came with the bike. 130/90 16. If it wasn't brand new...

 

[XSLeo]

The 130/90-16 is the stock size tire on the Specials. You shouldn't get rubbing unless the wheel is off center or not lined up straight.
Measure from the center of your bottom engine mount bolt back to the center of the axle on both sides of the bike. They should measure the same. That is if the hard tail was welded on straight.
If you look from behind the bike look along the chain. Does it look like a straight run from the rear sprocket to the front? Any misalignment you see indicates wheel misalignment.
Leo

 

[gggGary]

One possible way to gain chain clearance from a wide tire is; 520 chain on 530 sprockets that have one side turned down to 520 width this creates an offset. Non O-ring chain has a narrower OD than O-ring chain also.