Oil Detectives: 26,000 Miles

PHeller

Erie, PA
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Bike is new to me. Did an oil change. Here is what I found:

Oil Filter (side one) is in good shape. A few specs of metal in it but mostly dirt and crud (non magnetic).

Sump Filter is torn, lots of crud, bigger (see pic) chunks of non-magnetic material and metal (magnetic) shavings.

What do the Oil Detectives say?

FYI the that's a magnet on the left if you couldn't tell.
DSC_0438.jpg


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Bike is new to me. Did an oil change. Here is what I found:

Oil Filter (side one) is in good shape. A few specs of metal in it but mostly dirt and crud (non magnetic).

Sump Filter is torn, lots of crud, bigger (see pic) chunks of non-magnetic material and metal (magnetic) shavings.

What do the Oil Detectives say?

FYI the that's a magnet on the left if you couldn't tell.
side Oil Filter is collecting the stuff coming thru the torn sump doesn't look like a lot of stuff, with no idea of how often the PO changed the oil I'd wait until next oil change (1000 miles) before getting to excited, fix or replace the sump filter
 
Yea I plan to.

If the cam chain tensioner is falling apart, is there a version that is less likely to deteriorate?

I've got the 78 non-lock-nut style.

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The cam chain guide and tensioner (the long pieces) come into contact with the chain. These are the "wear" points. The rod pushes the tensioner against the chain. An overly tight tensioner can cause premature wear. And, over time, these pieces wear out. Little pieces of plastic are ok, but like Jayel said, wait a 1,000 miles and then you can now how much you are loosing.
 
Is the setting the cam chain tension the same on the non-lock nut tensioner as the the lock nut style tensioner?

I haven't had the bike idling long enough to set it either way.

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Yes, setting is the same for all. Just make sure the rod moves in and out a little bit or it's too tight.

The bits you found are from the front guide. It has a narrow ridge of plastic down both sides and that's the 1st part that starts breaking off.
 
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