Oil in the Combustion Chamber

I think somebody overgapped your rings, or just stuck 80mm rings in there, that'll pump oil. Piston/bore clearance of 0.0055" is too much, even for forged pistons, they'll flutter and pump oil. Also, rings like round holes. You report 0.0008" out-of-round in the cylinder. Rings can't seal to that kind of oval, they'll pump oil. Lastly, max wristpin clearance is about 0.0015", you report 0.003", way too (rattly) much. That won't last very long...

All of those are hard facts. So, maybe I should consider new connecting rods, and either re-sleeve, or bump up to the next size piston...
 
Yeah, sorry 'bout that. Engine building shouldn't be taken lightly, especially with tight tolerance, close fitting, fast moving parts. For some reason I'm thinking that you're down here in TX, and am wondering about your builder. Do you have the complete service manual for your year engine?
 
I agree with TwoMany........................your "professional builder" seems to bear some responsibility for a failed rebuild. If he knows his trade, he should have recognized the wear on your parts and advised how to correct them.
 
Yeah, sorry 'bout that. Engine building shouldn't be taken lightly, especially with tight tolerance, close fitting, fast moving parts. For some reason I'm thinking that you're down here in TX, and am wondering about your builder. Do you have the complete service manual for your year engine?

I agree. Yes I'm right down the street from you actually. NW side of San Antonio.
The shop that has been helping me out is out of town, which always makes things difficult. If I knew of a shop that could do good work around here I'd be all over it.
At this point, it looks like I probably need to suck it up and replace the connecting rods, and if the cylinders are too big for the pistons, that means I have a virtually brand new set of pistons and no use for them. Or I could keep the pistons, and re-sleeve and machine the cylinders.
 
I agree with TwoMany........................your "professional builder" seems to bear some responsibility for a failed rebuild. If he knows his trade, he should have recognized the wear on your parts and advised how to correct them.

Yes I have to agree. However I won't put it on anyone other than myself, I've had a close eye on all of this the entire time. Knowing here and there that things were not right on the money, but given time and money, I've tried to make the best of what I had in my hands. I'm learning...
The shop that has been helping me out has been more than up front with everything, and very helpful.
 
Yeah, I thought you were in my neck of the woods!

I used to do that boring/resleeving stuff billions & billions of years ago. Nowadays, that kind of service has dried-up around here. According to the knowledgeable folks here, the best go-to for this is Gary Hoos Racing...
 
Yeah, I thought you were in my neck of the woods!

I used to do that boring/resleeving stuff billions & billions of years ago. Nowadays, that kind of service has dried-up around here. According to the knowledgeable folks here, the best go-to for this is Gary Hoos Racing...

Yes, Gary is an awesome guy, and he has been helping me out a lot with it. However, at this point I'm really concerned about the connecting rod to wrist pin clearance, as well as the piston to bore clearance. I was really hoping to go back with new rings and give it a go. But if there is like a 90% chance that it is going to start allowing oil thru the rings again...well I'm not sure I want to go thru all of that just to take it around the block a few times...
 
Rods are the shitty part. Have to find a shop to disassemble the crank. I am in that boat with the new engine im doing. Have to send it 8 hours east by mail.

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TwoMany is right again with the rings not being able to do their job if the bore is oval - and we are talking micro amounts, but enough to drag up the oil.

ANLAF
 
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