One problem after another

RVA804

RVA804

XS650 Enthusiast
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Well I noticed a leak at the starter motor plate so I decided to try kickstarting the bike to see if that minor leak would go away. I rode the bike around the block, everything seemed fine. Then the bike stalled in 1st as I was rolling up the driveway. I went to check the sync on my carbs and there is no vacuum from the right carb. Right spark plug is now black. A few days ago the plugs were perfect. Also, my starter motor did grind a bit when trying to start the bike with the electric start when I was checking the sync. Feeling pretty damn frustrated.
 
Get it somewhere warm and check for a missing vacuum cap then check valve clearances and compression.
 
Vacuum caps are on the barbs. I was having a ticking noise from the engine that seemed to go away when the engine warms up.
 
There is a thread about a meatball mechanic and carbon on a valve seat.................
Could be several/many things. But I'd start with items above.
 
So I need to pick up a feeler gauge and adjust the valves. The intake valve on the right side is very tight and not moving like the other ones. I guess this would be I was not getting a vacuum reading on the carb sync?
 
hmmm Most likely that's a yes to the no vacuum. but tight AND not moving is confusing me.
 
I just readjusted my carbs, the right side was completely out of wack... prob from the drop the other day. I think i'm all set.. just rode it around and it was sounding good!
 
Get the feelers and set cam chain and valves already. XS650's don't take kindly to those who attempt to whistle by the graveyard. Actually they are pretty forgiving but it is VERY cheap insurance to set chain and valves on a regular basis.
 
gggGary said:
Get the feelers and set cam chain and valves already. XS650's don't take kindly to those who attempt to whistle by the graveyard. Actually they are pretty forgiving but it is VERY cheap insurance to set chain and valves on a regular basis.
Click to expand...

Will do. Thanks for the help Gary.
 
I'm going to get rid of this thing. Way to frustrating. I get it up and running perfectly and then something new fucks up. I had the right cylinder running and carbs sync'd and then in then the right cylinder went dead while I was riding. I was still able to ride it home, just had to work the clutch a little bit. No spark from the right spark plug. Now when I try to start the bike the battery just makes a faint buzzing sound but is not turning over the left (working) or right (dead) cylinder. The battery is fully charged, just got it a few weeks ago. Fuck.
 
I do understand that these bikes take work. I'm not a mechanic, I was trying my best and was able to fix a few things on the bike but now this is becoming too much for me. I paid 2k, I'm going to be taking a big hit on this thing ha.
 
RVA: I can understand your frustration and that's too bad because once you get these issues sorted out, the XS650 works great and (at least in the day) was one of the most dependable bikes around. The typical problems are electrical or fuel system related, and both are curable fairly simply, because the 650 is a pretty simple machine. If you can go for a ride of any real length on your (very nice looking IMHO) 650, then I'll bet you've nearly got the problems solved.

In comparison, a British bike is simply not well done in the first place. They leaked oil, because they were designed poorly (the crankcases were split vertically rather than horizontally like nearly every Japanese bike), and they were built of inferior materials often in primitive factories staffed by sloppy workers. The electrical systems were simply...well, they didn't call Joseph Lucas the Prince of Darkness for nothin'....
 
littlebill31 said:
I was gonna see how close you are to me. Its about 4 hours. I was gonna try to help.
Click to expand...
So OMRON 4H7-01 ( is the part that is buzzing
MaxPete said:
RVA: I can understand your frustration and that's too bad because once you get these issues sorted out, the XS650 works great and (at least in the day) was one of the most dependable bikes around. The typical problems are electrical or fuel system related, and both are curable fairly simply, because the 650 is a pretty simple machine. If you can go for a ride of any real length on your (very nice looking IMHO) 650, then I'll bet you've nearly got the problems solved.

In comparison, a British bike is simply not well done in the first place. They leaked oil, because they were designed poorly (the crankcases were split vertically rather than horizontally like nearly every Japanese bike), and they were built of inferior materials often in primitive factories staffed by sloppy workers. The electrical systems were simply...well, they didn't call Joseph Lucas the Prince of Darkness for nothin'....
Click to expand...
I'm actually reading a post that you had commented on in regards to the starter relay (part 4H7-01). When I press the starter button I hear the starter relay buzz a little. I am just stumped because I also read that this part would not have any impact on the spark plug not firing. Can't kick it over either. I love this motorcycle, I just have this problem where I have to fix everything RIGHT NOW and it's taking away from my home business. I'm torn!
 
OK - that starter safety relay (SRR) is important because it prevents you from engaging the starter once the engine is running - so it keeps all those nice expensive little gears safe. All modern bikes have a similar set-up - but they mostly use solid state relays rather than electromechanical units, as on the XS650, so they're more reliable.

I don't know if that is your problem - but it sure messed me up. My bike would crank on the starter and go 10 times in a row - and then suddenly, it wouldn't react at all to the starter button and I'd have to kick it. After a few miles/hours of running, the electric starter would decide work again - for no apparent reason. At first I thought it was the ground connection of the RH handlebar switch (the one with the kill switch and starter button on it) - but I realised that if the horn works - the handlebar is properly grounded.

The other important test was to use a heavy gauge wire to jump across the two big terminals on the solenoid - if the engine cranks, you know that your starter is good. NOTE - there may be a spark when you do this and that jumper will be carrying A LOT of current so do not crank the engine for too long.

Did you find my post about how to clean it and check the SRR? It really is a VERY simple task - 10 minutes or so. The most difficult part is getting the sheet metal cover off the SRR without dropping and losing one of those microscopic friggin' little screws.

To clean the SRR, just remove the relay cover, give it a shot of electrical contact cleaner (NO smoking please) - and gently use a toothbrush to give everything inside the cover a little scrubbing - and then put the cover back on. If that is your problem - it should now be cured.

Keep going Bud - you're closing in on it.

Pete
 
Sounds like you have either a heavy electrical drain somewhere or more likely the charging system isn't. That would be the answer for both the dead cylinder and no juice to start it.
#1 charge the battery.
then see if it starts.
now get a voltmeter on it see if it's charging
The poor mans first test is point the headlight at a wall when you rev the engine does the light get brighter?
 

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