Oozing oil through the head gasket, re tighten the bolts?

They are the bolts holding the front cam chain guide in place, M6 in size, about 7 ft/lbs of torque. That's the little bolts. The big nuts/bolts they go through, I don't know, you'll have to look that one up.
Yeah, I have been digging around to find the torque value for the front cam chain guide, but no luck so far. Anyone of the gurus have a clue or good reference discussing these bolt/nut/copper washer jobs?
 
^Mine started feeling squirrely before 6-7 ft. lbs., so I stopped early and no problem yet :) Used locktite on them of course. Noticed the guide has threads deeper than the stock bolts can reach, so might benefit from longer bolt.
 
xwjmx I bought my guide from Mike's and the lower hole threads wouldn't grab with the stock bolt so I was forced to use a longer one. Luckily it worked! Taught me a lesson about certain things from Mike's.
 
^Mine was from there too but didnt have that. I haven't had any problem with him myself. Seals were all great, brake kits great, expensive shipping UPS only used to bum me out. Heard stuff about a few parts, but OEM is always best is nothing new.
 
Great avatar xjwmx!
Some A-B mikes vs OEM
the used one is OEM
From several years ago but the threads in the mikes guide were rather crude, looked like poor or dull threading tools were used. When it was $35 vs $65 it was a no brainer but now that OEM is $115............
 

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Using a bottom tap seemed to help with the threads. For me the problem was the bolts wouldn't seat as far on Mikes replacement vs the oem.
I also considered shorter, not longer bolts.
 
When it was $35 vs $65 it was a no brainer but now that OEM is $115............
I'd have used OEM but I didn't know there was one until afterward. If it was easier to get to, maybe not. I've learned missing rubber on this part isn't always obvious, not even by sound of the motor. I could hear a very slight whistling but only if the bike was idling leaning on side stand, as side of chain rubbed against side of bare guide. Planning to check it by keeping an eye on chain tension and when tension all of a sudden falls off, consider that the rubber might be gone. Reason I got in to the motor was a separating crank; guide missing its rubber was a surprise.
 
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Careful with those 6mm bolts. They go into questionable, aluminum threads in the front guide. Several reports of premature stripping-out before fully tight, on the aftermarket guides. More info in my album:
http://www.xs650.com/media/albums/front-guide-slipper.1640/
And here:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/anybod...guide-is-made-from-gona-maybe-make-one.38344/

Hi 2Many,
thanks to this string what I now reckon to do if I ever get around to replacing my front guide is to satisfy my inner cheapskate and buy MikesXS front guide
while appeasing my technical training by Heli-coiling it's dodgy threads.
 
Hay Fred ! ....
why not just go to the next larger bolt instead of helicoiling those tiny bolts ? the only added labor would be drilling out the holes in the cylinder so the bigger bolts fit.... they would hold it better I'm sure.
.....
Bob...........
 
This is PO thinking workmanship....................Every owner has had to get through the dreaded PO;)
 
gggGary that's exactly what I was thinking, cruder casting and dull tools. It was almost like the machine had reamed the entrance to the hole and didn't bite to cut threads for a few turns. My OEM hadn't lost it's rubber and actually looked almost as good as the rubber on the replacement but experience told me what would happen if I took that chance.
 
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