Painting frame with Rustoleum appliance paint

CalsXS2

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This is not a debate between paint or powder coat. I am going to use the Rustoleum appliance paint.

Some of you may remember my thread about how I screwed up painting my frame with VHT roll bar and chassis paint. I did poor prep work. And now it's rusting through in spot's.

So to the point. :laugh:

When using the appliance paint, do I need to use primer first. Or can I spray it on bare metal like the VHT.

Just had a thought. :eek:

Could I get buy with sanding out the rusty spot's, and then go over it with the appliance paint. The reason I want to switch paint's is because the VHT is really thin, and it comes out rather dry looking if you get over spray anywhere. And it's really hard not to get over spray when painting a frame.

The Rustoleum is supposed to be thicker, and stays wetter,, longer,,, from what I've read.

Or should I just sandblast the frame again and start over. :shrug:
 
Even the epoxy appliance paint is not very solvent resistant. You need a self etching primer on the bare metal for adhesion
Automotive epoxies or polyurethane will last much better. Appliance paints generally do not have UV inhibitors either.
 
I am far from an expert, but I would treat the rusty spots before paint.

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This is what I use. Clean it up, treat it, and paint right over it. My closest hardware store carries it.
 
CalsXS2, just my two cents here, you need to strip down to clean metal and start over.
The vht will be the weak link and will cause you problems later.
Like jd750ace said, you will need to use an etch primer then an automotive type of paint.
If you go with the Rustoleum appliance paint you will be doing this again.
 
I've had great luck with Rustoleum products. But, you do need to strip all the VHT paint off first, and use a good primer. I used Rustoleum's clean metal primer, followed by their industrial black. All in rattle cans, turned out great, fuel resistant (not proof), easy to touch up. Of course, I was going for low-buck. Next project will most likely be powder coated, as it will see lots of gravel.
 
Just a comment on some of the other recommendations; etching primer is not NEEDED on mild steel if the surface has a texture (i.e. sandblasted or sanded no finer than 400). However, etching primer is nice added insurance. Stainless and non-ferrous metals need etching primer for reasons I'm not fully familiar with.
 
I am planning on doing my frame as well and am leaning towards paint because it can be touched up if need be, and if I need to add something, weld, etc, I can fix a section. My last bike was a vrod and it had a painted frame (much to my surprise) from the factory.

As for the type of paint, I am trying out some smaller parts first, to see what I prefer. I have done two small parts in appliance paint and it was easy, but I have many concerns that others have listed. I am going to try the wheel paint and possibly the caliper paint too. With a good primer, paint, and possibly clear, I imagine that they may hold up better as they are made for being outdoors, and to put up with heat and abuse.
 
Spray can paint works great but just not on things like fuel tanks and side covers. Its just not durable even if the can claims "Rock hard enamel finish" Frames really dont see alot of abrasion and contact like a fuel tank. I used PJ1 Gloss frame spray can paint and it is better than regular bought anywhere paint- but I would not be afraid to use a typical wheel or caliper paint to do a frame. Sounds like you are aware appliance epoxy paints are not suited for outdoor use so that will save you trouble.
 
We have bedliner in a can here for trucks that isnt super gritty, but very tough with a decent gloss finish. Thats what my frame and swinger are done in.

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