Back when I did heavy checks, we used Toluene as a solvent to remove paints and sealants. I used to make a witches brew of toluene, mek and acetone.
FortNine did a really good episode on fuel stabilizers and if you watch it - you would never use one again.
I'm with Pete on this...no liner if at all possible. I've had really good results with Evaporust
And worth the added costI literally just watched it earlier this week! I think Project Farm did one as well. Basically, if you're stuck with e-gas, empty the tank/carbs when storing for more than a month or so is the lesson I got from all of this. If you're lucky to have non-E gas...it's safe for a much much longer time.
Marty, in another thread you spoke of a phosphoric acid that etched the metal and prevented flash rusting? Can you elaborate a bit?Good move! Etched with acid I believe it will just continue to rust. ER or Metal Rescue won't etch the good metal.
Where phosphoric acid attacked the rust, it left a hard black surface that I believe is iron phosphate. The first fender I tried, I left outside and it has yet to rust where that black surface is. The issue, as I see it, is that the good metal is etched by the acid and whatever coating the factory put there is destroyed, so my expectation is for it to just rust there. I'm sorry I'm so seat of the pants. I did a tank and left it, but I hit it with gear oil and set it on the shelf.Marty, in another thread you spoke of a phosphoric acid that etched the metal and prevented flash rusting? Can you elaborate a bit?
What I'm thinkin' is hit a badly rusted tank with hydrocloric (muriatic) acid. That will get you to rust free in less than a hour. Follow up with the phosphoric acid and (hopefully) done. Back to a rust free, protected innards.Where phosphoric acid attacked the rust, it left a hard black surface that I believe is iron phosphate. The first fender I tried, I left outside and it has yet to rust where that black surface is. The issue, as I see it, is that the good metal is etched by the acid and whatever coating the factory put there is destroyed, so my expectation is for it to just rust there. I'm sorry I'm so seat of the pants. I did a tank and left it, but I hit it with gear oil and set it on the shelf.
I have a 74/75 tank I want to use. It appears to have a complete rust coat and my plan it to see what happens after phosphoric acid treatment. I'm just not ready to do that yet. I may try it on a chrome exhaust this weekend.
I know from experience that this is correct! Muriatic acid will make chrome plated tools rust in a heartbeat.Hydrochloric acid (aka Muriatic Acid) is fantastic at removing rust - Fact!!. But it leaves the metal contaminated with Chloride ions and these will actively promote further rusting. I use electrolysis now followed by a soak in citric acid. If I had access to Phosphoric Acid (aka Orthophosphoric Acid) I would use it.
Would that be the same as vinegar? I tried several methods, but not vinegar or molasses.followed by a couple of hours soaking with citric acid.