Pushrod leak - Should i replace bushing and install a one piece rod while im at it...

[wherearewe]

So as the title says, my pushrod seal is weeping a bit. No idea how old it is (its red not black though). I have another seal here so i could replace it. My question is:

Since im going in there should i replace the bushing and install a one piece rod? Or is that something that i should IF the new seal weeps too. Is the one piece rod a worthy investment?

Thanks

 

[tonyc]

Yes it is worth the trouble.

 

[weekendrider]

Do it all once.

 

[5twins]

That red seal is an original. I'm surprised it just weeps and isn't balling it's eyes out, lol. Here's what I would do - get the long rod and the new bushing but don't even change the original seal yet, just stick the long rod in. That short rod wiggles side to side an awful lot, even with a good bushing. This wears the seal and the bushing. The long rod hardly moves side to side at all which means it seals better (easier) and puts less wear and tear on the seal and bushing. The seal has an easier job of it because the rod moves sideways less. Just switching to the long rod may cure your minor leak.

The long rod also gives better clutch "feel". It's a win-win situation what with the less wear it induces and the better operation. I have no idea why Yamaha changed this. The early 650s had a long rod as stock.

 

[wherearewe]

Ok cool. Best to drain the engine oil? Use something like 3-bond 1104 or just seat it 'au natural"?

 

[wherearewe]

That red seal is an original. I'm surprised it just weeps and isn't balling it's eyes out, lol. Here's what I would do - get the long rod and the new bushing but don't even change the original seal yet, just stick the long rod in. That short rod wiggles side to side an awful lot, even with a good bushing. This wears the seal and the bushing. The long rod hardly moves side to side at all which means it seals better (easier) and puts less wear and tear on the seal and bushing. The seal has an easier job of it because the rod moves sideways less. Just switching to the long rod may cure your minor leak.

The long rod also gives better clutch "feel". It's a win-win situation what with the less wear it induces and the better operation. I have no idea why Yamaha changed this. The early 650s had a long rod as stock.

Yeh thats a sensible suggestion. Any tips for removing the rest of the pushrod assembly and ball bearings? Telescopic magnet i guess?

 

[5twins]

There's no need to drain the oil, that seal is above the level. But like I said, I wouldn't change the seal until I tried the long rod in it. You may not need to.

I had no luck trying to get the ball out through the seal with a magnet. It's a little bigger than the seal. I had to take the right cover and clutch pressure plate off, and push the ball out that way.

 

[weekendrider]

Whoa back up 5twins.
If he tries the long rod without pulling the seal he has to drain the oil.
To do it from the right as you said.
But that is a lot of effort to just find out you can run the seal another how ever long.
Do it all.
Do it once.
Fugget aboud tit.

OP when you get the two rods out. Take the longer and epoxy a rare earth magnet to the end. The little ones used to "fix" the china rotors.
You won't believe how handy it be. Especially for the carb bowl screws that fall around the backbone/swingarm area.

 

[wherearewe]

I did think about that. Seemed like it might be as easy to leave the oil in there, leave the right side on, and simply change the 30 year old seal and bushing while installing the long rod? Either way i have 2 weeks to ponder life while i wait for the parts to make their way to me at the bottom of the world...

 

[weekendrider]

BWHAHAHAHA you thumb twindler. I have a pic in my album about the clutch pushrod swap you may find handy.

 

[wherearewe]

Thanks for that. Your little float measurement tool looks good. Might have to steal that idea.