Question about clutch perch/lever replacement...

[TeeCat]

Hi, guys...

I replaced my bike's front brake lever and perch when I replaced my master cylinder, because they are integrated. The clutch lever and perch are working okay, but the pivot holes in both are a little worn, so I'm expecting arrival of a new lever and perch this afternoon, and will be installing them within the next few days.

I have adjusted my bike's clutch many times (at the lever and the case cover). But if I'm just replacing the perch and lever, can I get away with undoing just the bar end without disturbing the adjustment at the case cover, or will I have to do both? I'm not sure if there'll be enough slack in the cable if I do just the bar end.

Also, if I have to do both, does anyone recall the size of the clutch adjustor locknut? (I don't have the bike in front of me.) 12 or 13mm, isn't it? I need to stop on the way home and get a little offset box end wrench... those things have a way of tottering off...

Thanks!

TC

 

[littlebill31]

It's a 12mm. And yes, you can just undo it at the perch. Just keep a little tension on it so it doesn't pop off down in the case.

 

[cros36]

my 74 is a 13mm. i would start at the case and then do the perch. it only takes maybe 2 minutes....
you have a xs650, how do you not have every kind of 13mm known to man?

 

[littlebill31]

Weird, my 73 and 81 are both 12mm. I just checked.

 

[TeeCat]

Thanks, guys... I suppose I'll start at the perch, and then if the adjustment is not at least as good as it is now, I'll do both.

cros... as I mentioned, those little wrenches seem to just wander off... it's so annoying!

TC

 

[cros36]

i just went down and checked mine, yup its a 13mm. you had me scared, cause ive never been wrong before.

 

[TeeCat]

Mine's a '73, so maybe '74 marked the inception of 13mm adjustment locknuts.

 

[littlebill31]

LOL, mine are 12mm. Who knows. Maybe someone can tell us if there was a change during those years.
I stared a while back writing down the different things I need for my bike. Like oil type and amount, plugs, certain bolt/nut sizes, ect. Just so I don't have to disassemble something remember.

 

[xjwmx]

I'd bet the 13 is a replacement. Lots of Yama nuts are 1mm smaller on the outside than hardware store replacements.

I don't think you'll have to adjust anything at the case. That just adjusts the slack in the mechanism down there, which shouldn't need to change. Also, I don't think adjustment down there is real critical. I once put mine a half turn backed off from where it had been, and didn't notice any difference after I compensated for it at the perch.

 

[5twins]

Take care installing that new perch if you got it from Mike's. They're thinner and can break in half if you tighten the mount a little too much. If you want a nice one, scrounge the perch and lever assembly from a late '70s - early '80s KZ Kawasaki. Why? The lever pivot is over 3 times as wide and should probably never wear out .....

 

[xjwmx]

I need to stop on the way home and get a little offset box end wrench.

I've just used a socket on mine, and it doesn't turn the adjuster. But if it did, I'd use a socket held with a vice grip, and hold the screw with a screwdriver through the square hole in the socket.

 

[littlebill31]

I replaced mine with one from Mikesxs because the mirror threads were boggered up. I then broke the new perch when tightening the mirror..........by hand.

 

[xjwmx]

^For an alternative, my stock mirror threads were messed up bad, but carefully running a tap down it made it good as new.

 

[TeeCat]

Hey, Bill... I'm actually wanting to break the old one to get it off. Explanation:

I really don't want to remove my left grip because they are almost new, and I'd likely have to cut it off. I can't use compressed air because the butt end is open for a bar-end mirror. Alternatively, I am wanting to spread the halves of the old perch to get it off the bar, but a wide blade screwdriver won't quite do it. Another idea would be to force the halves apart far enough by using a bolt with a nut between the halves, and forcing the bolt through the nut against a small wedge of metal or something between the nut and the lower perch half. Or, I could score the perch with a Dremel cut-off disc to weaken it. I'd rather break the old perch that has seen better days than risk that grip.

Cleverness welcome!

TC

 

[hmusket]

How do you plan to put the new perch on without removing the grip? If your grip's not glued you might be able to push the straw of a spray lubricant between the grip and the handle bar and work the grip till it slides off.

 

[TeeCat]

The new perch is of the split type, with two halves/two bolts. I did try the lube already, but it just ain't hap'nin'. There may actually have been some sort of mastic or glue in these grips because they were a bear to go on.

 

[xjwmx]

Heat the grip with blow dryer, and stick a long screwdriver down and work it around. Just kidding. Seriously, blow the perch off with a cherry bomb.

 

[hooktool]

A long thin air nozzle will get it off, just slip it under part of the grip, and seal the open end with your hand. It doesn't need to seal great.

You can get the cable out of the lever easy. Slack off the adjuster, and line the slot so the cable can come out. Pull the lever with your fingertips, grab the cable housing in your right hand and pull while letting your fingers slip/snap off the lever. It will come right out without having to slack off everything. I don't know if that's clear-its easy to do, harder to describe.

John

 

[TeeCat]

John, thanks. The cable's already off at that end, no problems there. I think I do have a small rubber air nozzle attachment that I used to get my brake pistons out of the bores. Maybe that will work. I was hoping that I could do this without removing the grip and light/signals/horn switch.

First, though, I'll have to take the switch for the light/signals/horn off the bar. It's an original type new replacement that I installed last year or so... I just hate working with those switches because they seem so fragile. I don't think that one has any springs that can become airborne, though.

 

[TeeCat]

Well, John, if there was any mastic or adhesive under there, I must have loosened it a bit last night. A few more blasts of air while I rotated the grip, and it came right off. Good to know that that does work.

So, I have the new lever and perch installed now. The new pivot holes are properly sized, and round of course, so it'll be interesting to see if this improves my ability to adjust the clutch. Haven't tested it yet, but I just left the worm gear screw setting where it was; it's a bit snug cold, but I'll test it as is. If it's not to my liking, I can always just loosen everything and start over at the worm gear screw.

Thanks for the tips, guys... figured I'd just take my time and pull the control switch and grip.

TC