Ran great all day, now runs like crap!

Marlin72xs

XS650 Junkie
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This is my 1st thread creation, so correct me if I'm wrong.
This has happened a few times, but it always corrected itself. it runs great, plenty if power, then it appears to run on 1 cylinder, but it's sputtering in the other. 1/2 or full trottle, load or no load, still runs like doo doo.
So the other day it happens,so while riding, i yanked up on each butterfly separately and determined that the right side is the problem. I limped home and parked it.
30 minutes later, before starting it, I tapped the bowl cover with the plastic end of a screw driver. it stared and ran great. Almost better than ever.
It happened again about a 1/2 hr later, and with my trusty screwdriver in pocket i tapped while riding and it cleared up again.
It seems to happen during hard throttle.
I'm guessing that the float needle is sticking closed when i drain the bowl at wot. I've replaced both needles 4 years ago. Could the alcohol in the gas be doing this, (not flex fuel ready), or do these needles wear out fast? Or is it a piece of rust that keeps moving around, clogging things randomly?
 
last had carbs apart 4 years ago, yeah it's time.... hard to tell what's acting up. I'm working on a set of carbs, the po was serious believer in the bang the float bowls theory..... they have the marks to prove it.
 
Well, i didn't bang it like a 50's television. When i got it in 76, i rode it for sbout 10 years straight. But, I can't emember if I ever changed the needles back then. Too many beers ago! Thanks.
I keep delaying, but soon I will drag it to the basement and yank it apart.
 
It may not be worn parts, just dirt or debris in the bowls. If you can remove one still full of gas, carbs still in place, with a stubby screwdriver, have a look at what's inside. You can drain the bowl onto a little catch container (I like the plastic tops from laundry detergent bottles), but you'll see more/better if you can pull the bowl still full.
 
It may not be worn parts, just dirt or debris in the bowls. If you can remove one still full of gas, carbs still in place, with a stubby screwdriver, have a look at what's inside. You can drain the bowl onto a little catch container (I like the plastic tops from laundry detergent bottles), but you'll see more/better if you can pull the bowl still full.
When I put her back on the road in 2014, I cleaned the rust out of the tank by partially filling it with aluminum roofing nails and shaking the hell out of it. I then had to clean the carbs 3 times in the 1st few months. Inline filters work well, too. I've changed them 3 times also and never found any debris in them. Shortly after I then changed the float needles and seats because occasionally if I left the gas on during a short stop, the bowls would sometimes overflow. I shut the gas off all the time now anyway. I will always remind myself about the Husquaverna rider in , "On Any Sunday", when he tried to make a signal fire in the desert. Anyway, when I pull the carbs I'll try not to tip em over till I get the bowls off. Thanks.
 
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You might also want to check the high tension lead (spark plug wire) connections. The stock coils and plug ends use a push on and twist connection onto what looks like a wood screw down inside the end of the coil and plug end.

I have found that these can become loose and can make the engine miss from time to time.

Pete
 
Even before the use of alcohol in the fuel, shops made a good profit by cleaning carbs EVERY spring, $100 + per bike. Avoid this, store the bike with Stabil or 2stroke oil in the gas and float bowls, or drain the float bowls. In the spring, remove that gas and use it in your car or lawnmower, fill with fresh gas and Seafoam, then have a happy season, repeat.

People who say that they did not see any improvement when using Seafoam are the ones that follow the directions on the can. Use much more than the directions say to use. 1/2 can to a full tank for drastic situations, less for regular maintenance.

Scott
 
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You might also want to check the high tension lead (spark plug wire) connections. The stock coils and plug ends use a push on and twist connection onto what looks like a wood screw down inside the end of the coil and plug end.

I have found that these can become loose and can make the engine miss from time to time.

Pete
I appreciate that and have solved that intermittent missing from time to time. And yes, I'm still using points and running the original coils.
 
Even before the use of alcohol in the fuel, shops made a good profit by cleaning carbs EVERY spring, $100 + per bike. Avoid this, store the bike with Stabil or 2stroke oil in the gas and float bows, or drain the float bowls. In the spring, remove that gas and use it in your car or lawnmower, fill with fresh gas and Seafoam, then have a happy season, repeat.

People who say that they did not see any improvement when using Seafoam are the ones that follow the directions on the can. Use much more than the directions say to use. 1/2 can to a full tank for drastic situations, less for regular maintenance.

Scott
Thanks. Before i pull the engine, i will give seafoam a try.
 
Thanks. Before i pull the engine, i will give seafoam a try.

When riding the bike with Seafoam, run it at different RPMs. This will allow the Seafoam to clean the different circuits in the carburetor. For the idle circuit, put around town on some streets that aren't busy, close the throttle while coasting and letting the engine idle. That way you'll be cleaning the idle circuit, and cooling the engine.

Scott
 
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