Rear Master Cylider Rebuild vs. Mikesxs OEM Style

[rmclaughlin]

Hey all. So my rear master cylinder is totally gunned up and frozen. Yamaha has a rebuild kit for 85 bucks or MikesXS has an aftermarket OEM type with reservoir for the same price. Has anyone used the one from Mikesxs? Just want some opinions before I purchase. Don't mind spending on the brakes.
Thanks

 

[angus67]

Ide stick with the Yamaha caliper. mikes stuff is hit or miss. If all you need is a piston, and a few gaskets, then get oem. I rebuilt my yama front cali with parts from mikes, and works fine. fwiw.

 

[rmclaughlin]

Thanks. The original is completely frozen so Ill have to soak it in gas or degreaser or something else to pry it apart. Once apart I'll make the call.

 

[XSLeo]

Are you talking about a master cylinder or caliper? Big difference. I have rebuilt several calipers. Easy to do. Master cylinders not so much.
A bit more info will help us help you.
Leo

 

[weekendrider]

Irrelevant information deleted.

Are you talking about a master cylinder or caliper? Big difference.
A bit more info will help us help you.
Leo

Hey Leo the man supplied plenty of info.
Or maybe you know of a caliper with a reservoir?
Must have been a special year.

 

[rmclaughlin]

Hey Leo. 79 Special with rear discs. The caliper needs doing also but the master cylinder is frozen shut so I figure I'll have to soak in in gas or something else to get it apart and rebuild it. The replacement yamaha rebuild is 89 buck and the re pop from mikes is about the same. Just wanted advise as to just get the new one or re build the original. Was also gonna get a new piston from mikes for the caliper. Any advise on both would be great.
Thanks

 

[XSLeo]

Well the op titled this thread as a Master cylinder problem then proceeded to talk about calipers, So I had to ask which he meant.
Now with the more info he supplied we know he has issues with both.
Gas won't help much. A penetrating fluid will. About the best is a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF, both available at parts stores.
Use a large c-clamp to push the piston into the caliper, this loosens the grip of the rust.
Now you can use air pressure to push the piston out, just be careful, when the piston comes out it comes very fast. Don't have your fingers in the way. A shop rag help stop it from bouncing off the wall.
On the master cylinder I might just replace it.
The old stock lines rot from the inside out. New rubber lines are better than the old. Braided stainless steel lines are even better. They don't flex under braking so more of your lever effort goes to braking.
Leo

 

[weekendrider]

No he didn't. And you can't read otherwise into it. He titled it master cylinder and his first post said rear master cylinder and mentioned reservoir.
Now your giving advice about about the front master cylinder so I'll help you.
He is talking about the rear master cylinder and rotor, year not important, no other information relevant.
He wants to know, buy from mike or yamaha.
And apparently he didn't care for my information since he called you out for help.

 

[rmclaughlin]

Thanks All!!

 

[angus67]

sorry, guys. totally my fault. guesse I need to brush up on my phonics?

 

[XSLeo]

I went back and edited out the "excess" info on brakes and any reference to front brakes.
What I said about using a c-clamp works on both the rear and front calipers. They are the same caliper except for the direction the bleeder screw points.
And as I said I haven't had the best of luck on rebuilding Master cylinders. I would replace it.
Sorry if my excess info confused anyone.
Leo

 

[rmclaughlin]

Not at all. I just got it apart. Thanks