Rebuild kit for a 1972xs

[yellowdog]

Hi I have been searching for a master cylinder rebuild kit for a 1972 xs650
with the round type reservoir with 5/8 stamped on the body,I have searched mikes and Yambits uk and cant figure out which if any are suitable,can anyone help with this ?
Thanks

 

[XSLeo]

The 5/8 is a 16 mm. The later 73-76 masters were the same bore size.
The factory part number for the 72 is 1A0-W0041-00-00. That same part number was used up through the 76 model year.
Boats.net shows them as available from the factory at $57.92.
You can use that part number to search Ebay or other places online.
650central lists them at $87.95.
If you just have to have the stock master cylinder to use, I guess one of the kits is needed. But if you want better brakes and don't mind the M/C not looking like your stock one you might try a stock master from one of the later bikes. They have a square reservoir, but being a 14 mm bore it will improve the power and feel of the brake.
Mikes has two M/C's that would work well. The item #08-0255 and the #08-0262.
About the same price as a rebuild kit for yours.
Leo

 

[yellowdog]

Thanks ,I guess its not the end of the world if it isnt dead stock as long as it works well.
I emailed mikes ...no reply.

 

[yellowdog]

Got a reply from Mikes today ,no they havent got one.

 

[XSLeo]

A rebuild kit, no. They do have the master cylinders I listed as well as one that looks more like yours item #08-6009. It has the wrong threads to fit a Yamaha mirror but they sell adapters for that. #16-3001
Leo

 

[MANIPULATOR]

I have a 74 TX I am resurrecting and the front brakes won't work. Ive tried adding fluid and bleeding without any luck. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[MANIPULATOR]

Also the rear brakes had an awful glaze and also wouldn't work. I sandpapered the drum and shoe was that Mickey mouse?

 

[XSLeo]

I would disassemble your calipers and master, clean and inspect to parts. If you just find them dirty, no damage reassemble and try again.
I have found that a master cylinder needs to be bled before you hook the line up. I use my finger tip over the hole the line hooks to. As you slowly pump the lever, the air gets pushed out past your finger tip but won't let any back in so fluid gets drawn in. Repeat as needed to get good fluid flow. Hook up the line and Bleed normally. You may want to take the caliper and line loose from the fork and hold it higher than the M/C when bleeding. This lets fluid push the air up out of the system. Works better than trying to push the air down out. The air tries to float on top of the fluid.
Sanding the glaze off the pads and drum is fine. About the only way to do it.
Leo

 

[MANIPULATOR]

Thank you x100