Rebuild: No Spark

Still can't get it to fire. I've got a spark now, and pretty sure i'm getting fuel to it too. I'm going to take a closer look tomorrow while i let the battery charge overnight. Also i noticed a weird issue when i go to kick start it. The kickstarter fires back up towards me every couple of times. Anything to be concerned about?
 
Sounds like you are too far advanced on your timing. That would cause the kick back.

Now you should be able to static time it to get it running. That will get you close. Then use a timing light to fine tune it.
 
Too far advanced in timing, what exactly does that mean? and how do i fix it? I'm going to redo the timing just to be sure right now, will report back.
 
I'm going by the 650central link on page 1. I pulled the plugs, then rotated the motor counterclockwise until the points on the top where farthest apart at which time i gapped them. Then it says to rotate my timing so that the timing mark lines up right at F inbetween two points which i did. When i go to rotate the ignition plate it says the timing light will go off at full counterclockwise, mine doesnt. I have a volt/ohm meter and timing light. I must be missing a step or misunderstanding one. I'm in Clinton Twp area.
 
As you turn the crank are you looking at the points? If so, you should see no gap, then see the gap you preset. The spark plug fires when the points just open, which should be at the F mark. Also, are you doing the right side first, with your timing light hooked up to the gray wire?
 
Are you using a timing light or a test light? I don't think a timing light will work. Try hooking up your VOM with the plate full CCW and see if you are getting voltage or not.

One thing you need to be sure of is that the right side of the motor(when you are sitting on the bike, right side) is on the compression stroke(TDC). Put your rotor at the TDC mark and wiggle both rocker arms on each side. The side that both rockers have movement is the side that is at TDC. If it turns out it is the right side, then turn the rotor two full turns and put it back to the "F" mark.
 
Sorry, it's a test light. Didnt mean to be confusing. When i turn the ignition plate all the way CCW the light doesnt go out, nor when i turn it all the way CW. I'm not excatly sure what the problem is. If i don't have it running by the weekend i'll post up a short video of what i'm experiencing see if that helps any.
 
The kickback is from the atu, how do i know if i positioned that correctly when setting up the points side? Does it matter what orientation it is in?
 
I took the whole points and advancer units off to start from scratch. Could this be a problem for not starting? The little pin in the back of the advance plate has carved into the seal, how do i know what to align it to?

2012-07-26191931.jpg
 
I took the whole points and advancer units off to start from scratch. Could this be a problem for not starting? The little pin in the back of the advance plate has carved into the seal, how do i know what to align it to?

2012-07-26191931.jpg

The camshaft itself has 1 large pin on its right end (threaded end). From your picture that pin appears to be missing. The advancer rod has 2 smaller pins, with 1 at each end. The slot in the back of the advancer plate alines with the large pin on the right end of the camshaft.

When the the engine is at TDC, the 3 pins I mentioned should be alined with each other and at 12:00 o'clock postion.
 

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I checked on Mikes XS and am not seeing a part. I'm assuming it's welded in there. Is there anyway i can set it correctly without buying a new camshaft? I'm certain it didnt have it before, so somehow it was set without it.
 
I checked on Mikes XS and am not seeing a part. I'm assuming it's welded in there. Is there anyway i can set it correctly without buying a new camshaft? I'm certain it didnt have it before, so somehow it was set without it.

You must have that large pin in the right end of the camshaft. That pin is how the camshaft drives the advancer backplate. Don't assume the pin is welded. Most indexing pins are a press fit.

You don't need to buy a new camshaft. Some of the lads on this site may have a spare pin to help you out. They may be available for purchase from Yamaha itself or other online sites.

Try looking at www.powersportspro.com
www.speedandsportinc.com
www.boats.net
www.yamaha-motor.com
 
Got the pin and had it pressed in. Also completely cleaned the carbs out. So now i've got fuel, but last night my spark decided to go away. At first i had spark, now i don't. This rebuild is becoming a huge headache. If i can't get it running in the next 2 days i'll be taking it to a friend this weekend for assistance.
 
Have you checked all your wires from your coils, and the ignition key switch to make sure your not getting any shorts? I didnt read all posts so sorry if i am way off here! As far as the kick back every now and then, in my experience with both of mine they just do that sometimes. Hope you get it running, good luck!
 
I have not, how would i go about doing so? I have noticed that the left side coil gets pretty hot, as opposed to the right side which is ambient. But i've got spark now..
 
Okay i've narrowed down my issue to the ignition system. My coils were showing twice the resistance they should be, and i was getting no continuity through the caps. So i ordered 2 new coils, new wires and new caps. Now my battery shows 12.5V, and drops to about 8V when i go to crank. Do you guys recommend i get a new battery as well?
 
Installed new coils, wires and caps. Have a strong blue spark now, didnt get a battery and the thing still won't start. I've lost hope now, a new battery is on order and if that doesnt start it it's going to the shop i've damn near given up.
 
New battery now too, strong spark. I can smell fuel on the plugs but they're not wet. I know my right cylinder timing is correct, the left i couldnt get the light to come on when i was adjusting it. Still no go, it backfires here and there but doesn't fire up. Any ideas?
 
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