Recommend me an upholstery tool

Downeaster

Downeaster

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I'm gearing up to try putting that seat cover on for the CX. The base is plastic, the original cover was stapled on. I need two recommendations/sources:

1. With my arthritic hands (they're actually getting bad enough that riding is becoming questionable...) a manual stapler is a non-starter. What's a good electric stapler? Probably corded, but battery isn't out of the question.

2. What staples? They need to be short (1/4" or less) and stout to seat properly in the plastic base.

TIA...
 
Done that on plastic seat pans.. I didn't have a good stapler so I bought a cheap air stapler, probably at Menards or Harbor Freight, can't remember. Anyways, it was probably about $10, cheaper than a good Arrow stapler. Staples, I used galvanized staples. Bought one pack of staples before I realized there is a big difference in the sharpness of the points of different staples. You want the staples with the angled sharper points, not the ones shaped like flat chisels. Open the boxes or compare the pictures on a few different boxes and you'll see the difference. Love that stapler for insulation etc.

Edit, Just had to adjust the air so that the vinyl was not ripped under the staple.
 
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I am not sure if they are available but there used to be staplers with something like a hammering motion
Staple Hammer Seen them in use at Construction sites and for fastening plastic .Perhaps making marks on the Fabric or Vinyl
$ 35 US

1705421093292.png
 
Jan, I have a "whacker-tacker" that works great for insulation, roofing felt and other jobs where accuracy is not a factor.

Given that I have about a half-inch target and need to place the staples pretty much nuts-to-butts, that won't work for this application.

MTW, I'm definitely leaning toward a pneumatic. Other feedback indicates that battery powered (and presumably, electric) don't have the muscle to punch through thick plastic. Your point (arrrr...:D...see what I did there?) on staples is well taken.
 
Ck with a upholstery shop.. just to skin your seat.... might be cheaper than you think.... they have the tools... correct cement and a steamer... a long time ago I did this kind of stuff as well as windshields.... I had a complete tuck and roll interior (white) inside my bright red 59' hardtop Studie Lark... and.. a white tuck and roll vinyl roof... Mexicans loved me... 😎
 
motormike said:
Ck with a upholstery shop.. just to skin your seat.... might be cheaper than you think.... they have the tools... correct cement and a steamer... a long time ago I did this kind of stuff as well as windshields.... I had a complete tuck and roll interior (white) inside my bright red 59' hardtop Studie Lark... and.. a white tuck and roll vinyl roof... Mexicans loved me... 😎
Click to expand...

Yes Sir I once took the saddle XS 650 to a shop for furniture Upholstery sometimes late eighties For Up market furnitures
Known to be expensive . But I figured I can ask .. Senior man with leather apron Experienced professional.
I don't know why.. But it ended -- cost something like $ 20 for the whole thing Black Vinyl no pattern on top
He removed the old cut a new put it in place . Pretty much jaw dropping .. Still have it.
Cooperate and helping out .. He is retired since many years.
I believe neither the job or the pricing was important for him given his regular work.
 
Get a pneumatic staple gun that shoots 1/2" crown 20 ga staples. You can get them in 1/4" length. I am an upholsterer and use this size for cycle seats, boat seats etc. The 3/8 crown guns are 22 ga and are more for furniture upholstery. I have both guns.
 
A lot of upholsterers use some sort of glue and steam it to activate. I've just seen this on TV shows, don't know the technique.
 

meite MT5016S Upholstery Stapler on Amazon. The problem is you will spend over 100.00 for this and staples to use once?​


As mentioned above, you can also just get a quart of Weldwood contact cement and brush a thin coat on the vinyl and the plastic base, let dry to touch, apply another thin coat let dry to touch (5 min) and then stick.

Just use a cheap 1" paint brush to apply and the key is two thin coats.
 
xshead said:

meite MT5016S Upholstery Stapler on Amazon. The problem is you will spend over 100.00 for this and staples to use once?​


As mentioned above, you can also just get a quart of Weldwood contact cement and brush a thin coat on the vinyl and the plastic base, let dry to touch, apply another thin coat let dry to touch (5 min) and then stick.

Just use a cheap 1" paint brush to apply and the key is two thin coats.
Click to expand...

I like your input perhaps another thread .I rarely succeed with glue unless it is wood glue
 
I always use contact cement on the older metal base seats if the "sharks teeth" are broken off.
As I said, contact cement thin layer on both surfaces, let dry and then apply another thin coat on both surfaces. When it's dry to touch ( no glue comes off on your fingers) start pulling the cover on.
Being that the adhesive is coating the entire contact surfaces, you can get a very even fit with the cover.
 
With staples you have a "second chance". You can tighten, loosen or move the cover after start, Just stay away from the edge an inch or so. You can tighten spots without removing staples.
 
Jan_P said:
I am not sure if they are available but there used to be staplers with something like a hammering motion
Staple Hammer Seen them in use at Construction sites and for fastening plastic .Perhaps making marks on the Fabric or Vinyl
$ 35 US

View attachment 259816
Click to expand...
Yep J-P these are actual staple hammers. I used them as a carpet fitter for fixing underlay to wooden floors. They are not really accurate enough for upholstery work.
better to use an upholstery electric or air powered. staple gun from a company like Tacwise. Good kit and not too spendy: www.tacwise.com
 
Following. I got a 2nd seat and a replacement cover. I'm not in a rush so I'll learn from anything I see here.
I've done a jet ski seat cover but the plastic was thicker and much bigger seat. Used stainless staples (cause its over water) and a heavy duty staple gun.
I'll have to look at what I have cause I think they would go too deep unless I'm really good at angling them in the plastic.

The metal trim on a '78 seat, can that be reused?
 
I recovered my boat seats with vinyl from a national chain fabric store. It was listed as marine grade vinyl, but it started peeling and flaking after only one year.
Where do you get oem quality vinyl?
 
I ponied up for a pneumatic Arrow stapler and a box of 1/4 inch T50 Monel staples. Now I just need to work up the courage...

I called the local-ish upholstery place and the guy made it pretty clear that he didn't want the job and would charge accordingly. He was kind enough to give me a couple of pointers so as soon as I'm feeling froggy, I'll give it a shot.

I plan to use a hair drier to soften up the vinyl and as indicated here, stuff the foam into the cover before stretching the vinyl over the seat pan.

Question: Once that's done, should I glue the foam to the seat pan? If so, what should I use? I'm concerned about the glue attacking the foam. I have some 3M spray contact adhesive, but I'll go get whatever the Hive Mind suggests.
 

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