replace standard bulbs with LED ones

[leodr]

I have a 1982 xs650 heritage special and I am having a problem with maintaining my battery at at least 12volt charge when idling with headlamp, tail / brake light and signal lights on. I am draining the battery. I do a lot of stop and go city driving, so rpms are not really high enough to recharge battery. I have attached a volt gauge so I always know my battery level and I hand signal for turns to avoid depleting my battery. I wired the volt gauge directly to + terminal of battery with lamp wire to fuse box signals and the ground from volt gauge to the body of the bike, also wired a toggle switch to turn it off and on. NOW all I want to know is there an easy way to replace my standard headlamp 50w/40w, tail/brake lights 8w/27(2) , flashers 27w (2) and license lights3.8w (2), so that there is less drain to my battery. I am draining 50+8+8+27+27+3.8 = 123.8 watts while stopping and I can see my volt gauge dropping. How much less wattage if I change to LED will it be and what and where do I buy. I am in Canada (Toronto). I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks, Leo

 

[jd750ace]

Not an easy way. the turn signal bulbs can be replaced easily enough, but you have to install a load equalizer to make the flasher work. The plate lamp, and run/stop lamps are just as simple. You will cut your system load in half, and you have not done anything to the headlight. I'd hold off on that one until you are sure about your lighting requirements, and you run across something that is cost effective that will produce the same (or preferably more) light yet consume less energy.

Here's something to look over.
http://www.wykedilluzionz.com/

 

[leodr]

Not an easy way. the turn signal bulbs can be replaced easily enough, but you have to install a load equalizer to make the flasher work. The plate lamp, and run/stop lamps are just as simple. You will cut your system load in half, and you have not done anything to the headlight. I'd hold off on that one until you are sure about your lighting requirements, and you run across something that is cost effective that will produce the same (or preferably more) light yet consume less energy.

Here's something to look over.
http://www.wykedilluzionz.com/

I would have to install load equalizer for each circuit (flashers, plate lamp, run/stop lamps? How much for each and would I have to purchase different bulbs?? I am a little confused may be you can walk threw what needs to be done. Sounds complicated. Thanks, Leo

 

[jd750ace]

The load equalizer is just for the turn signals. The LED bulbs will not draw enough amperage to cycle the turn signal relay, so the load equalizer makes that happen. Not sure how it works. I think that's on the site I linked. All of the bulbs would be replaced with a LED assembly that goes right into your existing socket. The bulb prices vary, but "bargains" from E-bay last about as long as Chinese flash lights with LEDs, so be smart. Good stuff may cost a bit more. This is the simplest method, as most of it is just changing the bulbs. The load equalizer is not too difficult. You should call those folks and talk to them, and get an idea of what you are looking at money wise, and understand what it takes, at least.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I have a 1982 xs650 heritage special and I am having a problem with maintaining my battery at at least 12volt charge when idling with headlamp, tail / brake light and signal lights on. I am draining the battery. I do a lot of stop and go city driving, so rpms are not really high enough to recharge battery. I have attached a volt gauge so I always know my battery level and I hand signal for turns to avoid depleting my battery. I wired the volt gauge directly to + terminal of battery with lamp wire to fuse box signals and the ground from volt gauge to the body of the bike, also wired a toggle switch to turn it off and on. NOW all I want to know is there an easy way to replace my standard headlamp 50w/40w, tail/brake lights 8w/27(2) , flashers 27w (2) and license lights3.8w (2), so that there is less drain to my battery. I am draining 50+8+8+27+27+3.8 = 123.8 watts while stopping and I can see my volt gauge dropping. How much less wattage if I change to LED will it be and what and where do I buy. I am in Canada (Toronto). I would appreciate any feed back. Thanks, Leo

Here's a picture showing the LED tail/brake light I use. I also use an LED licence plate light. I bought the LED tail/brake light at Walmart for $19.95. Its DOT approved, and rated for 100,000 hours.

Its your tail/brake light that's really loading down the electrical system. Those two #1157 bulbs are wattage hogs. The turn signal #1156 bulbs are wattage hogs as well, but they're not on as much, so not really as big a concern.

The loads you mentioned would use 40+8+8+27+27+3.8 = 113.8 watts (8.75 amps)
For normal driving use the 40 watt low beam, not the high beam.

The same loads on my bike use 40+0.95+1.85 = 42.8 watts (3.3 amps) Licence plate LED watts included with tail and brake lights.

That gives a savings of 71 watts or 5.45 amps, which is a huge savings for these alternators.

I use a 40/60 Halogen headlight, and find the 40 watts for the low beam is easily handled by the electrical system, once you switch over to an LED tail/brake/licence.

I continue to use the stock type #1156 turn bulbs, even though they are wattage hungry.

If you switch over to the LED tail/brake/licence, you will find a big difference in the ability to keep the battery charged up.

Occasionally, if I was stopped at an intersection with the turn signals flashing, the stock flasher unit would stop flashing due to low voltage. The stock flasher will not flash when the voltage drops below 13 volts. I removed the stock flasher and I now use a Tridon HD12. The HD12 works on a capacitor charge time circuit, and will contniue to flash even when voltage drops down due to a low idle. Its much safer, because I know the flasher will not quit flashing while I'm waiting to turn.

With my present set up, I have never had to use an external charger during driving season. My bikes battery is always fully charged, and my starter motor always starts the bike easily.

 

[weekendrider]

Time or money makes anything work.

 

[jd750ace]

Good info from the RetiredGentleman and Weekend rider. Thanks for jumping in.

 

[leodr]

Here's a picture showing the LED tail/brake light I use. I also use an LED licence plate light. I bought the LED tail/brake light at Walmart for $19.95. Its DOT approved, and rated for 100,000 hours.

Its your tail/brake light that's really loading down the electrical system. Those two #1157 bulbs are wattage hogs. The turn signal #1156 bulbs are wattage hogs as well, but they're not on as much, so not really as big a concern.

The loads you mentioned would use 40+8+8+27+27+3.8 = 113.8 watts (8.75 amps)
For normal driving use the 40 watt low beam, not the high beam.

The same loads on my bike use 40+0.95+1.85 = 42.8 watts (3.3 amps) Licence plate LED watts included with tail and brake lights.

That gives a savings of 71 watts or 5.45 amps, which is a huge savings for these alternators.

I use a 40/60 Halogen headlight, and find the 40 watts for the low beam is easily handled by the electrical system, once you switch over to an LED tail/brake/licence.

I continue to use the stock type #1156 turn bulbs, even though they are wattage hungry.

If you switch over to the LED tail/brake/licence, you will find a big difference in the ability to keep the battery charged up.

Occasionally, if I was stopped at an intersection with the turn signals flashing, the stock flasher unit would stop flashing due to low voltage. The stock flasher will not flash when the voltage drops below 13 volts. I removed the stock flasher and I now use a Tridon HD12. The HD12 works on a capacitor charge time circuit, and will contniue to flash even when voltage drops down due to a low idle. Its much safer, because I know the flasher will not quit flashing while I'm waiting to turn.

With my present set up, I have never had to use an external charger during driving season. My bikes battery is always fully charged, and my starter motor always starts the bike easily.

Thanks for your input. Now I know that I am not alone with these electrical problems. I have a question that I am sure you can answer because you have done this LED conversion. Do I need to get a load equalizer for conversions, and if so, where to get it?

 

[leodr]

Here's a picture showing the LED tail/brake light I use. I also use an LED licence plate light. I bought the LED tail/brake light at Walmart for $19.95. Its DOT approved, and rated for 100,000 hours.

Its your tail/brake light that's really loading down the electrical system. Those two #1157 bulbs are wattage hogs. The turn signal #1156 bulbs are wattage hogs as well, but they're not on as much, so not really as big a concern.

The loads you mentioned would use 40+8+8+27+27+3.8 = 113.8 watts (8.75 amps)
For normal driving use the 40 watt low beam, not the high beam.

The same loads on my bike use 40+0.95+1.85 = 42.8 watts (3.3 amps) Licence plate LED watts included with tail and brake lights.

That gives a savings of 71 watts or 5.45 amps, which is a huge savings for these alternators.

I use a 40/60 Halogen headlight, and find the 40 watts for the low beam is easily handled by the electrical system, once you switch over to an LED tail/brake/licence.

I continue to use the stock type #1156 turn bulbs, even though they are wattage hungry.

If you switch over to the LED tail/brake/licence, you will find a big difference in the ability to keep the battery charged up.

Occasionally, if I was stopped at an intersection with the turn signals flashing, the stock flasher unit would stop flashing due to low voltage. The stock flasher will not flash when the voltage drops below 13 volts. I removed the stock flasher and I now use a Tridon HD12. The HD12 works on a capacitor charge time circuit, and will contniue to flash even when voltage drops down due to a low idle. Its much safer, because I know the flasher will not quit flashing while I'm waiting to turn.

With my present set up, I have never had to use an external charger during driving season. My bikes battery is always fully charged, and my starter motor always starts the bike easily.

Thanks for your input. Now I know that I am not alone with these electrical problems. I have a question that I am sure you can answer because you have done this LED conversion. Do I need to get a load equalizer for conversions, and if so, where to get it?

 

[jd750ace]

The load equalizer is for running LED flashers with the stock flasher relay. Without them, the lights tend to flash about 3 times faster than normal, which violates the motor vehicle code in most US states.
RetiredGentlemen stated he is still using the 1156 conventional bulbs. Every application I know of for LED in your existing turn signals requires a load equalizer, but I don't know too much. Just ask around. Start with my wife.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Thanks for your input. Now I know that I am not alone with these electrical problems. I have a question that I am sure you can answer because you have done this LED conversion. Do I need to get a load equalizer for conversions, and if so, where to get it?

The LED tail/brake conversion does not require any "equalizer". They just wire into your harness the same as stock incadescent bulbs.

If you want to use LED turn signals, there are specific flasher units available that are designed to flash LED bulbs that draw very little current. The flasher unit itself is able to operate with the low current, and does not need an "equalizer". Search on the web.

 

[grepper]

Also not mentioned above, instead of load equalizers you can also get a digital/LED flasher unit. They are flash with a timer, not by sensing a load.

 

[speez]

i would changes the fasher to an led 1, load equalizers are adding resistance to make stock flasher work and as current goes defeats the purpose of putting led turn signals

 

[Square Circle]

I am also having charging issues, and will be switching to an LED set up too.." Retired gent" ,you said you picked up that tail light from walmart. Is that a trailer light? And is it bright? I read another thread somewhere where a guy installed a strobe that flashed for a couple seconds when you hit the brake... I'm diggin that for saefty sake. too many damn cell phone users these days.

 

[leodr]

Hey everyone,
Where can I get a flasher unit that will accept LED signal (1156) lamps?? If I get this led/digital flasher then I do not need an equalizer??
Please let me know what to do. Re: tail/brake lights- which are best LED to buy also for led/digital flasher and led signal bulbs and also licence LED lights. I need to buy these soon before I go on a good long bike ride without fear of losing battery charge. Thanks, Leo

 

[Grinder]

This is the 1157 bulb I used for my tail/brake light...simply replaces stock bulb and every bit as bright, but not cheap. (1157-R45-T)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ed-bulb-dual-intensity-45-smd-led-tower-/814/
Also available in 1156 for turn signals but compare measurements to stock bulb to make sure it will fit as some of these bulbs are taller
Check with whoever you buy the bulbs from in regards to a flasher. If you use the correct flasher then you do not need the load resistors which defeat the purpose of using LED's.

If you go on a good looong ride then you don't need any of this stuff!!

 

[retiredgentleman]

I am also having charging issues, and will be switching to an LED set up too.." Retired gent" ,you said you picked up that tail light from walmart. Is that a trailer light? And is it bright? I read another thread somewhere where a guy installed a strobe that flashed for a couple seconds when you hit the brake... I'm diggin that for saefty sake. too many damn cell phone users these days.

Its a universal light, and yes they are used on trailers and on large trucks. Yes it is bright.
I did say its DOT approved...............that means its been tested for the correct amount of brightness.

 

[blue900]

I have the same tail light as RetiredGentleman on my 81 special It has made the bike charging System plenty good enough by loosing the two power gobbling tail light bulbs.
Got mine from the Truck stop.

 

[weekendrider]

LED's aren't a substitute for a correctly working alternater.
A nice mod yes, but not the answer to "my battery won't stay charged".

 

[retiredgentleman]

LED's aren't a substitute for a correctly working alternater.
A nice mod yes, but not the answer to "my battery won't stay charged".

Absolutely correct weekendrider! However, if you have the alternator/charging system working correctly, and you install an LED tail/brake light (and a 40 watt headlight), the heavens open and you enter into an electrical utopia, that very few have ever seen