Replaced valves and tappets, now have valve ticking (video) SOLVED

MOSFET

XS650 Enthusiast
Messages
42
Reaction score
4
Points
8
Location
Estland
Hey guys,

I want to ask if any of you more experienced engine people have some ideas of what might be wrong with my engine, and why does it tick so god damn loud.

Here's the story. I decided to rebuild my engine, after finding out that my engine had low compression in the left cylinder. After disassembling the engine, found left cylinder exhaust valve to be missing a tiny piece from it. My cylinder block also needed boring and new pistons, but that is a different story. I ordered all four new stainless steel valves from Heiden Tuning (same stuff you get from MikeXS) with new hex head tappet screws.

I performed lapping work, and made the new valves sit in the head nice and tight. I also replaced the forward chain guard, but nothing else. I disassembled and assembled the engine using both original and Haynes manuals, so I know, everything is properly assembled.

Today, as I fired up my engine for the first time, it ticks. It goes quieter as the engine warms up, but does not go away. Also the ticking quietens, as you pull on the throttle and the revs rise. My chain tensioner is adjusted, and my valves are adjusted, both like 5 times, accordance with the manuals (intake 0.05mm, exhaust 0.10mm to 0.15mm (tried both)). Please watch my video, and give me some ideas, because I'm out of them.

As I had the valve covers off, and I rotated the engine through the kickstarter, it sounded to me like the ticking noise comes from the valves when they return to their closed position, but I could be wrong. There was no such ticking noise, before rebuild. The bike is a '79 Euro Spec.

 
I think at .05mm (about .002"), your intakes may be a little tight. Tight valves aren't always quiet valves. Yamaha did spec that in the mid 70's for a couple model years but went back to slightly larger clearances on the later models. Most of us use about .075mm (.003") on our intakes, sometimes even a bit more. We run the exhausts usually at .15mm (.006").

Yes, #21 is a damper washer for the plunger. It was copper on the earlier models, switched to a rubber/metal style on the later models. You might find either on yours, or none if it's missing. The head of the plunger actually bangs into the back of the adjuster screw during operation and if the damper washer is missing it can tick just like loose valves. Here's the copper one on my original '78 assembly .....

CamChainTensioner.jpg
 
I think at .05mm (about .002"), your intakes may be a little tight. Tight valves aren't always quiet valves. Yamaha did spec that in the mid 70's for a couple model years but went back to slightly larger clearances on the later models. Most of us use about .075mm (.003") on our intakes, sometimes even a bit more. We run the exhausts usually at .15mm (.006").

Alright, I will loosen them up a bit then, thank you!
 
I think at .05mm (about .002"), your intakes may be a little tight. Tight valves aren't always quiet valves. Yamaha did spec that in the mid 70's for a couple model years but went back to slightly larger clearances on the later models. Most of us use about .075mm (.003") on our intakes, sometimes even a bit more. We run the exhausts usually at .15mm (.006").

Yes, #21 is a damper washer for the plunger. It was copper on the earlier models, switched to a rubber/metal style on the later models. You might find either on yours, or none if it's missing. The head of the plunger actually bangs into the back of the adjuster screw during operation and if the damper washer is missing it can tick just like loose valves. Here's the copper one on my original '78 assembly .....

CamChainTensioner.jpg

oh boy, I think I have an issue now..I am missing all those pieces for cam chain tenisoner -plunger,spring,copper washer.:yikes:
 
Back
Top