Replacement Ring Pictures: Tell Me What You Think

I got my rings today and they look just like your's. I measured them compared to my old rings here's what I found. The top ring is worn funny and is narrower by the ends but the widest part is 3.00mm and the new rings are 2.78mm a difference of .22mm. The second ring is 3.71mm and the new ring is 3.08mm a difference of .53mm. My old oil rings were 2.56mm and the new ones are 2.24mm a difference of .32mm.

I'm going by the machine shop tomorrow to have him look at my cylinders so I'm going to get his opinion on the rings. Mine came from northern auto parts and says on the receipt I have 90 days to return them so I may just send them back and order the ones from mikesxs
 
Went to the machine shop but the guy was already gone so I stopped by the yamaha dealer on the way home. The guy in the service center said he wouldn't take a change running those in any motor. I'm sending mine back. My cylinders had a little rust and didn't clean up as nice as I wanted so I'm having them bored and have to buy different rings & pistons anyways.
 
I will be ordering my new pistons and rings from mikes. I priced them at yamaha and they said $450+ tax for 2 pistons and rings. Thats crazy!!!
 
I think on your first rebuild is not the time to save a few bucks. Use the right parts, do it right. On your 4th or 5th engine you have a better idea of just how the engine works. Then try swapping unknown parts for known. then you can tell more about how well they work.
 
I just can't believe how the info about the rings has been on here since 11/09 and so far only one person has stepped up and said they were using them. They are obviously the right height top to bottom but aren't as wide as the xs rings. I wouldn't trust using them in any motor I'm putting together.
 
ramairgtz said:
I just can't believe how the info about the rings has been on here since 11/09 and so far only one person has stepped up and said they were using them. They are obviously the right height top to bottom but aren't as wide as the xs rings. I wouldn't trust using them in any motor I'm putting together.
Click to expand...

I used the same Rock Rings (PR211) in my recent rebuild. I had holed a piston last fall and just wanted to do a super quick and cheap rebuild (used piston, hone and rings) to get it back on the road. As soon as I get a phase converter built for my mill I will be doing an 880 big bore so this rebuild only has to last as long as it takes to do that.

If the rings had inadequate clearance on the inside of the groove then I never would have used them. Excess clearance doesn't scare me. The piston is not going to rock in the bore because of it (that is what skirts are for). The pressure behind the ring won't be any different. If anything, it will be slightly higher since there is a tad more surface area on the back of the ring. The only valid concern I have read is inadequate heat transfer since there is less surface area. Well, time will tell if that is true or not.

So far I am pleased with the performance of the rings. I just ran a ball hone through less than perfect bores. I did measure cylinders and pistons and they were still in spec [just barely]. When I did the first [cold] compression test, the engine was still on the stand, I got 150 PSI on both cylinders. After the initial break in and carb sync I measured it again [hot] and got 170 PSI. I just measure it today after a ride [hot], and got 175 PSI. There is around 1000 miles on the rebuild [not exactly sure, don't have an odo, estimating based on gas receipts].

If there are any sudden changes in compression, I will post it here for all to see.
 
Thanks that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Unfortunately for me I have to bore mine since the surface rust in the left cylinder was worse than it looked.
 
http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/4148/service_advisor_ringing_in_replacements.aspx

Great article regarding rings, "Rings designed for standard grooves must not be used in shallow groove pistons, nor should narrow rings be used in deep groove pistons."
I guess it makes sense to me, but I really think side clearance is more important than the depth of the ring groove. As long as the rings aren't flopping around and slamming into the opposite side of the land when the piston reverses (any more than a stocker, at least) I can't see any trouble. But I'm no expert...neither are most 'experts' I've met, either.

E
 
Hey everybody, I've had a couple questions about the rings, so here's an update.

Since mid july when I got the bike running, I put between 400-600 miles on the motor (don't have any gauges so I'm not sure exactly), and it's been running great. I think I got 140psi in both cylinders when I tested it last. This summer I did an 1/8 miles-farm-road-drag-race against my buddy with a 81 CB750 and smoked him!

So my recommendation: save some money and get the cheap rings. Unless your a rich bastard then buy the most expensive ones you can find.
 
how are the rings working out for you? im so fucking broke it hurts, but it hurts more to just sit there and look at my bike. mild winter, get any more miles in?

and whats your compression at?

mr. riggs, if you see this, you still running these as well?
 
Last edited:
A normal piston ring has a gap at one end. Total seal rings put two thinner rings in one slot and you clock the gaps 180 apart. They make a few different styles, but thats the idea in a nutshell. I don't believe they make any for the 650, but they do make sets for that Honda. Just like anything else, if you look for opinions on them you'll find all kinds of posts pro and con from people who've never used them...
 
What about the piston's those rings fit? Anyone look into fitting those (Honda,Acura) in an XS engine???
 

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