review of TC Bros taillight

trance

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I bought this taillight from TC Brothers.

http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/headl...e-mount-tail-light-license-plate-bracket.html

107-0004.jpg


I liked the look of it and it seemed affordable. I think it was about $50 when I bought it.

It's given me a ton of grief. Here's the problems:

1) It does not have a ground wire. Their solution is to have you grind off part of the powdercoating and it will be grounded through the frame. Yeah, right. I say: bad design.

2) the bent bracket that holds the light is actually bent the wrong way. This means that the little clear window that shines light on your license plate is angled the wrong way. It still works, but the light is shining sorta to the side instead of straight down.

3) The round headed bolts that hold the brackets together mean that your license plate does not sit flat on it. You'll either need to stand your license plate off it, or have a bent plate. Lame.

4) The holes for the license plate do not line up to my (NY) plate. I either have to just install 2 bolts for the plate, or drill out the holes in my plate or the bracket. Again, lame.

5) The best part: After my first 10 mile shakedown cruise, the wires literally shook off the light. I had to replace the lamp holder completely. WTF?

End of story: don't buy it, it's a piece of junk. I will probably have to replace it soon.
 
1) Using the bracket itself is more optimal than a wire in my mind.
2) Take the bracket off and reverse it, it had bolts.
3) The round bolts are super obvious you should have seen that before purchase. Definitely an issue I agree, look for a unit that is welded or weld it and re-powdercoat it.
4) Drill holes, it is what happens when you build a bike or alter with aftermarket parts. I has to alter my Banks Exhaust hangers or my truck. I expected it so I was not worked up.
5)That sucks about the wires no getting around that.

A quick search on ebay and you will find that exact item sold by many different folks. When I saw that it was a red flag. Cheap import is what it screamed. Frankly it is not that hard to build a really nice unit. In general you pay for what you get. This is why I went with Harley brakes and did not get no name import stuff.

Not sure this is a vendor issue as mush as a crappy piece issue, Call them get a refund based on the wire thing. The holes and bolts and grounding is not much ground to stand on. The wires coming out is though. Let them know diplomatically, they may not be aware it has issues.

If you don't mind have a look at this one, it is the one I used. Trick, well made and prices right. Not endorsing it just pointing out an option many do not know is all.

http://store.road6customs.com/The-Power-Piston-light-BRUSHED-vertical-bracket-00110.htm

Hope you wind up with better luck next time!
 
"Shakedown cruise" is so true!

Yamaha has many components rubber mounted on the stock XS650. There's a reason for that.The tailight on my bike is rubber mounted, and has no problems at all. Any after market items should be rubber mounted if possible.
 
Agree with retiredgentleman; Rubber mount your tail light. I couldn't keep bulbs in my TL until I did. Even then, because it was mounted to the axle on a hard tail, I had to go a LED bulb that would hold up to the vibration. Just part of the package to deal with when you customize.
 
Regarding unbolting and flipping the bracket around - this would point the light up at the sky - it's a geometric issue. You'd have to see it to believe it.

Yeah, it's sold by a lot of people. And it is cheap. Agree that I should have noticed the bolt issue before I bought it. One of those "duh" things once you go to install it.

Regarding drilling and powdercoating it....I mean, I'm cool with modifiying stuff, but this one should just work, it's not too complicated.

Just wanted to let people know, so they don't go through the trouble that I did. If I had to do it over would have spent some more money and bought one that's a bit better. Probably will have to before I'm done. We'll see if the new lamp holder vibrates out too. It's JB welded in there so will receive a bunch of vibration itself.
 
Hi Guys,

Tyler from TC Bros Choppers here. I was informed of this thread by a customer, and I thought I should follow up to see if I could be of assistance.

1.) Self Grounding Housing. This has literally become industry standard on the vast majority of aftermarket chopper/bobber tail lights produced today. Most people prefer it because it is less wires, cleaner looking, and whatnot. If you are having grounding issues or just prefer a 3 wire setup, you can easily just crimp a ring terminal to a piece of wire (that is attached it to a solid frame ground) and attach the terminal to the light housing using one of the supplied mounting bolts that hold the light to the bracket. No paint removal should be required once everything is tightened up.
2.) The bracket appears to be bent the wrong way. We literally have sold thousands of these things over the years, and the flat blank (before bending) is not symmetrical, so it is possible that one of my guys could have put it in the pressbrake "wrong side up" before forming it and it slipped through quality control. I have not received complaints from other customers for this issue (I would assume if he did one, he would have done more) but stranger things have happened in the world and I am more than happy to send you a correct one free of charge if that is the case.
3.) The button head bolts on the bracket are underneath the plate once installed. This is true but there is no need to make standoffs for your plate. The button head fasteners are my lowest profile option for this thickness of material (10ga .134" material is not thick enough to use 5/16" flat head cap screws and make a countersink deep enough to recess them). Most all of my customers just leave the bolts under their plate because the very small amount that the plate is lifted from the holder is un-noticeable to most people. If this bothers you and you must have your plate sit perfectly flush, you can always drill two 5/16" holes through your license plate and pass the bolts through. The reason for the bolt together design is that we wanted to offer a kit that was universal to every application possible. This design allows you to bolt the kit to your bike either right side or left side in either the horizontal or vertical position. This kit also includes an axle mount tab, shock mount tab, as well as a coped weld on solid steel slug for the guys that have to get really creative. You will be hard pressed to find a more universal/functional design anywhere on the market, regardless of price. With that being said, customer feedback, both good and bad, is extremely important to us at TC Bros Choppers. We are always looking to improve upon our designs to offer the highest quality products for the most affordable prices, so please don't hesitate to contact us directly should you ever have an issue/suggestion for any of our products.
4.) I was unaware of any fitment issues with NY plates. We have never had a customer mention a fitment issue in the past. When I designed this kit, I measured dimensions on plates from 4 different states (I will admit that NY was not one of them) and they were all the same. Just for measuring purposes, I also purchased the cheap "universal chrome motorcycle license plate trim pieces" that are sold by many retailers and found them all to fit the bolt pattern I used in our holder. Like I said this is a first for us, but if the NY plates truly do not fit, I will research the dimensions of that particular plate and see if we can fix the issue by slotting the mounting holes or some other method of accommodating the odd pattern. See this is where customer feedback can really help us to help future customers. Since we manufacture all of the steel pieces right here in the USA, we can make design improvements based upon customer requests very easily.
5.) I would like to speak with you more about how the wires "shook off the light". This is one of my highest selling tail lights and honestly we have had very few issues with it. Is there any chance that your wires were routed too tightly causing additional strain on them? The XS650 is definitely a vibrating beast, especially in a hardtail, so even simple things like routing wires to provide strain relief can make a big difference. That being said, the light itself is made overseas and there is always a chance of getting a bad one. The same holds true to items made in the USA. Errors can happen in production that are not caught in quality control. All I can say to you is please CONTACT US if you have any problems. We cannot help you unless you contact us and tell us what happened. We stand behind what we sell 100% and your customer satisfaction is our #1 priority. We refuse to have unhappy customers and will do whatever it takes to make it right with you, whether that be new parts, different parts, re-design, refund, whatever it takes. Our contact info is posted on our website but I will post it here as well. Email sales@tcbroschoppers.com. Phone 419-265-9399 M-F from 8:00am-5:00pm EST. I have a very helpful and capable customer service rep named Josh who is happy to assist you. If you don't get the result you are looking for with Josh, ask for Tyler or Tim and one of us will talk to you personally. My brother Tim and I built this business over the last 7 years and do our best to please our customers, and provide quality products that the average joe can actually afford. Check around the internet and you will see that we are not a fly by night operation making junk and leaving people hang out to dry. I promise you that if you contact me at the shop, you will not leave an unsatisfied customer.
 
Nice first post! Welcome to the forum.

Hi Guys,

Tyler from TC Bros Choppers here. I was informed of this thread by a customer, and I thought I should follow up to see if I could be of assistance.

1.) Self Grounding Housing. This has literally become industry standard on the vast majority of aftermarket chopper/bobber tail lights produced today. Most people prefer it because it is less wires, cleaner looking, and whatnot. If you are having grounding issues or just prefer a 3 wire setup, you can easily just crimp a ring terminal to a piece of wire (that is attached it to a solid frame ground) and attach the terminal to the light housing using one of the supplied mounting bolts that hold the light to the bracket. No paint removal should be required once everything is tightened up.
2.) The bracket appears to be bent the wrong way. We literally have sold thousands of these things over the years, and the flat blank (before bending) is not symmetrical, so it is possible that one of my guys could have put it in the pressbrake "wrong side up" before forming it and it slipped through quality control. I have not received complaints from other customers for this issue (I would assume if he did one, he would have done more) but stranger things have happened in the world and I am more than happy to send you a correct one free of charge if that is the case.
3.) The button head bolts on the bracket are underneath the plate once installed. This is true but there is no need to make standoffs for your plate. The button head fasteners are my lowest profile option for this thickness of material (10ga .134" material is not thick enough to use 5/16" flat head cap screws and make a countersink deep enough to recess them). Most all of my customers just leave the bolts under their plate because the very small amount that the plate is lifted from the holder is un-noticeable to most people. If this bothers you and you must have your plate sit perfectly flush, you can always drill two 5/16" holes through your license plate and pass the bolts through. The reason for the bolt together design is that we wanted to offer a kit that was universal to every application possible. This design allows you to bolt the kit to your bike either right side or left side in either the horizontal or vertical position. This kit also includes an axle mount tab, shock mount tab, as well as a coped weld on solid steel slug for the guys that have to get really creative. You will be hard pressed to find a more universal/functional design anywhere on the market, regardless of price. With that being said, customer feedback, both good and bad, is extremely important to us at TC Bros Choppers. We are always looking to improve upon our designs to offer the highest quality products for the most affordable prices, so please don't hesitate to contact us directly should you ever have an issue/suggestion for any of our products.
4.) I was unaware of any fitment issues with NY plates. We have never had a customer mention a fitment issue in the past. When I designed this kit, I measured dimensions on plates from 4 different states (I will admit that NY was not one of them) and they were all the same. Just for measuring purposes, I also purchased the cheap "universal chrome motorcycle license plate trim pieces" that are sold by many retailers and found them all to fit the bolt pattern I used in our holder. Like I said this is a first for us, but if the NY plates truly do not fit, I will research the dimensions of that particular plate and see if we can fix the issue by slotting the mounting holes or some other method of accommodating the odd pattern. See this is where customer feedback can really help us to help future customers. Since we manufacture all of the steel pieces right here in the USA, we can make design improvements based upon customer requests very easily.
5.) I would like to speak with you more about how the wires "shook off the light". This is one of my highest selling tail lights and honestly we have had very few issues with it. Is there any chance that your wires were routed too tightly causing additional strain on them? The XS650 is definitely a vibrating beast, especially in a hardtail, so even simple things like routing wires to provide strain relief can make a big difference. That being said, the light itself is made overseas and there is always a chance of getting a bad one. The same holds true to items made in the USA. Errors can happen in production that are not caught in quality control. All I can say to you is please CONTACT US if you have any problems. We cannot help you unless you contact us and tell us what happened. We stand behind what we sell 100% and your customer satisfaction is our #1 priority. We refuse to have unhappy customers and will do whatever it takes to make it right with you, whether that be new parts, different parts, re-design, refund, whatever it takes. Our contact info is posted on our website but I will post it here as well. Email sales@tcbroschoppers.com. Phone 419-265-9399 M-F from 8:00am-5:00pm EST. I have a very helpful and capable customer service rep named Josh who is happy to assist you. If you don't get the result you are looking for with Josh, ask for Tyler or Tim and one of us will talk to you personally. My brother Tim and I built this business over the last 7 years and do our best to please our customers, and provide quality products that the average joe can actually afford. Check around the internet and you will see that we are not a fly by night operation making junk and leaving people hang out to dry. I promise you that if you contact me at the shop, you will not leave an unsatisfied customer.
 
Tyler, thanks for your post. I'll post some pictures and better explanations later. I know you guys are a stand up organization, but this thing is working it's way towards either my junk heap or 'gotta do a lotta work to it' heap.

Yes, the wires separated right where they attach to the lamp holder. There was no wire left to repair, and no way to solder new wires in. It left me in the dark, it was a ride home across the po-po land w/o a tail light. I've JB welded in a new lamp holder which hasn't broken...yet.

For grounding, it's a lot for you to expect me to grind off metal from the tail light bracket, the plate bracket, the mounting bracket and from my bike to get this thing grounded. Guess I'd prefer the option of clipping off a green wire (if I want it cleaner) or grounding through the frame. I'll admit, I've gone for the "more wires" approach to wiring my bike rather than "super clean".

Regarding the misalignment of the window that illuminates the license plate - you will see that the 3 screws that hold the tail light to it's bracket are not at the 60 degree, 180 degree, 300 degree points. They are 120 degrees apart, but the first one occurs at ~40 degrees, the bottom one not quite straight down, etc...

Then, the tail light lens fits to the lamp holder only one way, leaving the clear window cocked a little to the side. In my case, it illuminates the wheel better than the plate.

It seems to me that the angle of the 3 screws is correct, just the plate is bent the wrong way. If it were bent the right way, the window would be straight down. See what I mean? I think, from looking at your stock picture, it's the same as mine. I'll verify and take some pictures ASAP.

I'd recommend some standoffs for the plate too. Mine is bent pretty bad right now. I'l be straightening out my plate, standing it off and fixing the screw holes in the plate as soon as I can. I'll compare it to my other NY plate too, and we'll see if it's my plate or ??

The holes in the bracket are round, mine are oblong. So, it's the height (short direction) of the plate that's the problem, not the width (long direction). If your bracket had oblong holes in the short direction, I would think you'd run into other problems w/plates that don't have oblong holes. So, I don't have a solution, if NY plates are just weird.
 
so, I figured I'd better follow up. Here are a couple of photos showing what I'm talking about. Yesterday, the tail light bit the dust - the plate that holds the plastic lens in place split and it puked out the lens somewhere on the road. So, I'm in the market for a new tail light. This light has a whopping total of 75 miles on it and has left me without a tail light twice now.

the first photo shows how the plate does not sit flat.

the second and third show how the holes are not spaced correctly for the plate.

the fourth shows the plate from the original lamp holder, where the wires are supposed to connect to - they've vibrated off.

The fifth shows the split in the backing plate, which holds the lens in. Can't show anymore how the lens wasn't aligned correctly, cuz the lens is laying on the road somewhere.
 

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I had a bunch of problems with this tail light also. Went through two of them. But to be honest it wasn't the light that was the problem. It was my crappy hardtail. My original hardtail was thin wall and too much stretch. It was the cause of all the failures on my bike. After cutting it off and doing a new one using 120 wall DOM with a 3" stretch I've never had another problem with fenders, tail lights, ... breaking off my bike. TC Bros did replace the light when I had the problem, so they do stand behind their product. I feel bad now about it and I plan to make it up to them somehow. I didn't realize the problem until my fender broke off the 2nd time and my sissy bar cracked in half.

But that said, there is one very bad issue but a simple fix. Put a rubber grommet where the wires come out of the light. It's stupid that the light doesn't have that.

Also be careful that the whole light cover doesn't vibrate off and disappear as you're going down the road. I stuffed some wire in there to make a much tighter fit after that happened to me.

Here is a few photos of my disasters:

IMG_0960.jpg

476638_10150942624240406_1583239469_o.jpg
 
LOL hope its not the hardtail cuz TC Bros made that too..thanks for the advice I'll be rubber mounting the new one when it comes in...
 
How do you rubber mount a light or license plate I'm confused but interested in the concept as I'm struggling finding a mount for my xs with a hard tail
 
How do you rubber mount a light or license plate I'm confused but interested in the concept as I'm struggling finding a mount for my xs with a hard tail

Hi Retro,
same way you rubber-mount anythin' else that don't have a custom made bonded rubber mounting bolt:-
Bolt to go through it all/flat washer/rubber washer/part to be mounted/rubber washer/bike part/rubber washer/ flat washer/locknut onto bolt's end.
Plain ol' rubber tap-washers from a hardware store's plumbing aisle will work OK.
 
I'm still running the bracket - but the tail light is long gone. I replaced it with the Lowbrow bullet light - which was great, but no light to illuminate the plate at night. I do have a couple of little LED license plate screw / lights that I've been meaning to put on, but haven't gotten around to it. The bracket has held up well but was an expensive bracket which ended up pretty mangled to get it to work. I really liked the look of the TC bros tail light, so too bad it didn't work.
 
Well,
This kind of licence plate/ taillight holder is a fairly dumb design to start with, as it is bolted to the wheel axle. So it follows the suspension movement, which surely will expose the whole thing to at least 10 G when riding on rough roads. So that it rattles apart should come as no surprise.
I do know that at least BMW and Ducati use this kind of setup on some bikes, but I am sure they have put a lot of engineering effort into their parts, using lightweight materials and rubber mounting where required, as well as extensive testing before starting production.
Surely a different approach to some sawzall obsessed hipster, whose engineering credentials adds up to the ability of saying stuff like "really rad taillight, dude"
 
My son just went thru a couple of tail light bulbs in very short order on his XS650 hard tail. Using a PREMIUM led bulb fixed the problem, as they are far more resistant. It needs to cost close to 15-18 bucks to be of high quality, so no WallyWorld junk. He did not like the looks of the display stuff at the parts store, either, but they had better ones back behind the counter. Any cushioning you can dream up is better than nothing.
 
I found that bracket a farce as well. I didn't even make it 300 feet before the lense piece fell off. I also had plate hole alignment issues. I soldered a ground wire to the light, worked fine. The clear window also lite up rear wheel.
I ended up welding a washer in the axle hole and used it on my 2003 marauder. No light, hung it off the shock mount, ground all the powder off that didn't burn off wen I welded it, black appliance paint. Looks tits. Just a vertical plate hanging. Glad I found a use for it. I paid $80 for it.
 
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