Run without clutch switch?

Docwits

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Reassembling my build right now and realize that I am using a YZ clutch that has no clutch switch on my 82 special. Two questions:

Can I run simply without a switch connected or will the lack of the nanny switch prevent starting?

Do I need to connect the two wires to the switch so that I don't need to be in neutral to use the starter?

Thanks in advance for your help, really suck at electrical!
 
Depending on the year. On my 81 the PO had jumped the wires for the clutch switch but I still need to put the bike in neutral to use the E-start.
The other years are set up different. The earlier had no clutch, the later also had a side stand switch.
These used a signal from the clutch switch, the side stand switch and neutral switch to only let the e-start work under certain conditions and if you tried to put it in gear with the side stand down it would kill the engine.
Leo
 
"On my 81 the PO had jumped the wires for the clutch switch but I still need to put the bike in neutral to use the E-start."

Leo, if that was the case, then your bike had a wiring error (or the PO removed the clutch switch wire at the SLR). The clutch switch is wired directly to the Starter Lockout Relay, which allows the E-start to work. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are in parallel, so either one operates the SLR.
 
Jumping on an old thread because it's relevant for my project. Hopefully someone is listening.

When Retiredgentlemen said "you can simply connect the two wires" does that mean connect them to each other to complete the circuit or connect them permanently to the switch?

At the moment, the connector on my sensor cable is busted and I'd rather just ditch the whole nanny set up and rely on my experience to pull clutch in when starting in gear.

Thanks. Electricals scare me.
 
When Retiredgentlemen said "you can simply connect the two wires" does that mean connect them to each other to complete the circuit or connect them permanently to the switch?
Connect them to each other. Acts as a closed switch (clutch pulled in)
 
You could also go for the trail and error approach.

1: Leave wires un-connected.
2: Push start button with key on.
3: If no dice then twist the wires together.
4: Now push the start button with the key on again.
5: If it cranks then you have your answer.
 
There are several ways you can go about this, depending on how much starting functionality you wish to retain. Simplest is probably just to remove the clutch switch, but that will only allow electric starting in neutral. The starter won't work in gear, even with the clutch pulled in. To restore that function, you would need to jumper the 2 wires together in the plug the clutch switch was connected to.

But, let's examine this "safety" circuit more closely, because there's more you can eliminate if you like. The clutch switch and the neutral light connect to a relay. This relay acts upon the R/W power wire feeding the starter relay or solenoid. There are 2 R/W wires running into the relay. One carries power in from the fuse block and that big starter/headlight relay. The other will carry that power out to the starter solenoid if the relay is triggered. The clutch switch and neutral light also connect to the relay. Either one of those can trigger it which allows the power to flow through on the R/W wire. So, if you like, you can also eliminate the relay. But, to restore starter operation, you will need to jumper the 2 R/W wires in it's plug together. Now your wiring is just like it used to be on the older models before the relay was added.
 
I'm a big fan of a relay on the starter only cut off by the alternator producing current. That way you save yourself from grinding the starter by accident if you hit the button while the bike is running, but still need to stay sharp enough to not crank the bike in gear with the clutch not pulled in. Keeps you on your toes and can be done with a cheap auto parts store relay!
 
This is not that relay. That relay is still there and functional. This is an additional added relay on just the last few models. It is located above and to the left of that starter/headlight safety relay .....

qO7iCqh.jpg


It can be totally removed as long as you jumper the two R/W wires together that feed into it's plug.
 
Thanks all for the input. As mentioned, I'm not great with wiring, so I'll just leave it alone and tuck the unattached section of the wire harness away (and start in neutral all the time) or rig some way to hold it in place.
 
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