running way rich, Ive hit a wall.

[ProSimex]

ok once again

150 psi on both cylenders (tested cold)
HHB PMA
Cap
Points
VM34s 185, 25, 3rd notch, (recommended needle/needle jet/slide, just cant remember specifics) air screw 1.5 turns out
650 central Hi-Vo intakes
XSpods (Junk replacing with steel dragon velocity stacks)
Stock headers
XSperformance reverse megaphones

This baby ran so nicely last year I would've ridden across country without a second thought. This spring its blasting white smoke, fouling plugs, and running really really erratically. Starts fine, lots of smoke, revs fine, will sit idling happily then start revving up on its own. I have dont the regular tune up, chain tension (chain replaced last year) valves all set to spec, points gapped, ect. same as before.

Ive been through the carbs a million times and everything is as it should be, all jest clear, all passages clear, float arm is parallel to casting as it came from the factory. no sounds of fuel in the floats.

Things that have changed

I put longer cables on to fit the higher handlebars that i wanted.
new seat and tail light (if that F-ed the moter i would be shocked)
the new cables were too long at the carb end so I did have to shim them with some spare ferrules I had, but Ive got them lifting together properly.

When I first started it up this spring and it ran like shit I opened the advance side to see it had somehow come right off, I re did that with some lock tight and it is springing back properly.

I found my cam chain adjuster to be backed out completely ( i figure that was my son playing while the bike was in the living room.

I just spent the afternoon going through it again and absolutely no difference. I love my bike, but shes never been this mean to me before.

 

[ProSimex]

just dropped the needle all the way down, no result

 

[ProSimex]

I notice that for the first few seconds its running fine, then it starts to smoke really bad. At this point air bubles start flowing up the fuel lines. I suspect the needle vales are dirty, but for the life if me i cannot get the float arm off to get at em. the pin is just too damn tight.

 

[Rexxis]

Idling up on its own is sometimes indicative of an air leak. Spray carb cleaner around the carb boots, butterfly shafts and around the choke plates. Listen for changes in rpms. It can take a second sometimes to get a response so remember to wait a good 5 seconds or so between squirts.

 

[Rexxis]

For the life if me i cannot get the float arm off to get at em. the pin is just too damn tight.

Hit them with some penetrant and let them sit. If they still wont come out, you can try this, just be careful.

BS34 carbs (80-83) use pins with flat heads and ends that protrude slightly from the posts. They are snap-fits, and must be pressed out. Relieve the head of the pin with a nut, press the protruding end flush with the post with a small C-clamp, and work the pin free by prying gently under the head with a screwdriver until it can be gripped with pliers and pulled out.

Taken from http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf

 

[ProSimex]

Im running VM's not BS's, but thanks anyways.

Well I got another can of carb cleaner and tried my best to clean the needle valve seats, didnt do much. So I decided Fuck it, I'll take her for a spin till she either goes pop or starts running right. Well i cot about 15 minutes from home, pulled over and the smoke was gone, so i turned around and brought her home. Gotta raise the needles again cus she was for sure lean on WOT but yeah for now its working, but not correctly, plugs are still black as hell after poking up my street. And when I was fueling up the overflow was gushing gas until i banged on the float bowl a few times.

 

[Take Warning15]

I just had this problem on mine and it took me months to figure out. I'm still not entirely sure it is figured out, but here's what I came up with.

I realized that the actual body of my carbs were bad. The engine was sucking fuel from somewhere that I couldn't determine. SOmetimes fuel will get sucked up past the needle jet if the o ring is bad or the jet isn't seated properly. That was one of my problems. Other problem was weak spark.

 

[Rexxis]

How did you determine you had weak spark?
Sorry, I know very little abt the electronics side of the bikes.

 

[Take Warning15]

For me, I was able to ground the plug and look at the spark I was getting. It should be a fat blue spark, not a small yellowish one.

 

[Rexxis]

Okay, okay. Cool

 

[5twins]

It helps to do this test in a semi-darkened garage. Outside on a bright, sunny day, even a good spark may not look so good.

 

[weekendrider]

Old fuel or fuel with lottsa pour in miracles? Could be the problem will dissappear as the fuel is replaced?
Idling up as a couple of hundred rpm or as a couple of thousand rpm?

 

[wherearewe]

If you cant get the floats out, another option is to use a tiny punch watch makers use. You can get kits for 5 bucks online that inc a little hammer etc. Its very precise so with some penetrating oil and a little time you can tap them out. Is your fuel filter in good condition?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

It's gotta be that tailight...

What you're describing sounds like you've slipped into the "dark side".

Out of the box thinking follows:

Do you have any enemies, upset wife, vindictive ex-wife,,, that know about 'sugar in fuel'?
Do you have inquisitive/helpful small children? Seen that photo of small child 'helping daddy' (garden hose in car gas cap)?
Are there any unusual cuts/nicks in braking system?

You get the idea...