Safety relay causing bike to stall out?

[cmattina1]

After swapping the 78 engine for a 75 engine, and installing the pamco, I managed to get the bike running, after adjusting the valves a bit.

However, there are some issues, what I do know is if they are related

At first it doesn't idle very well and I don't know if it would have to do with installing the pamco incorrectly... if it runs does that mean the wires are correct?
or could just be timing, it kind of "gallops"

Second, when I try to put it in gear it stalls out immediately and then i'd lose all power. To get power back i have to apply pressure to the safety relay, as if it's not making a connection. It seems like the same symptons as a fauly sidestand switch, but i don't know if 75's have one, so it could it something that serves a similar function, i.e. the safety relay?

In reading, it may be that something is staying open in the SR, so when I apply pressure to it, i am allowing it to make contact... it's just odd to me because it worked fine with the old motor... If i can allow the bike to get power by holing the SR should I assume the problem is the SR, or could it somethng else?

Sorry for all the Q's, but this is just a very off one to me...

I should add the the starter motor is on it's way out (whirls/spins, but starts the bike on the 3rd try) and sounds like this guy's:

Only while pressing the electric start though, when i kick start it there is no whirling I think the starter motor is indrectly attached to the SR, so could that be it?

 

[XSLeo]

On the 75 the safety relay only disables the starter when the engine is running. It should have no effect on the stalling.
On the way it runs, yes, timing the ignition is very important. If it runs then the Pamco isprobably wired up right.
When you installed the Pamco did you follow the instructions on the website? It tells how to install and time the ignition.
Ok lets review just how the safety relay functions. When you turn the key on power goes out from the switch on the brown wire. The power goes to engine stop switch, from there power flows on the red/white wire to the coils. It also goes to the safety relayIn the safety relay power goes through a set of contacts to the starter relay. From the starter relay up to the starter button. When you press the button power goes to ground, this activates the relay and sends power on the heavy cables to the starter.
Now as the engine starts, power is created in the alternator. Some of this power goes out on the yellow wire to the safety relay. This power on the yellow wire will climb up to about 2.5 to 4.5 volts. By the time it reaches this voltage the engine is running. This voltage triggers the safety relay to open the contacts. When this happens the starter stops working.
This is the only thing the safety relay does.
The 75 does not have a side stand, or clutch safety switchs or the wring for them.
The safety relay shouldn't have any effect on the power as you describe. Maybe what your pressing on is not the safety relay.
The safety relay is on the right side of the bike just below the starter relay. it has four wires coming out, a red, a black, a red/white, a yellow. The yellow, red, and black go into a three wire plug, the red/white goes into a single wire plug.
Check out the part, report back with the colors of the wires coming out of it.
Leo
On your starter, if it spins and can engage and turn the engine, the starter is fine.
If it fails to engage then the springs on the gears behind the clutch are weak. Easy to fix, seldom needs new parts. It's linked to in the Tech section.
There is no connection between the electric starter and the kick start. The kick start uses gears in the transmission and the clutch to turn the engine. The electric starter uses it's own gears and shafts to engage the crank shaft.
Your repair manual tells how to do a basic tune up. I would start there. Do the adjustments in this order.
Cam chain tension.
Valve adjustment.
Timing.
That should get it running ok if the carbs are ok.
On you electrical demons I would start by going through all the wiring connection and making sure they are all clean and tight.

 

[cmattina1]

thanks a lot leo. The reason why it was such a long post is because the bike is at a friend's garage outside of town, with not internet, so I had to try and cover as much as possible.

I got it running, the stalling was caused by a mistake I made with the clutch. The power loss was due to a bad ground. I got it timed, but, i may need to do that again, as I think i'll have to adjust the valves and cam tomorrow...

Seems to run okay, there is a bit of noise that sounds odd... kinda from the bottom end, I thought it may have to do with the electric starter, though, as you said if it works then it fine, though in reality, only works okay, compared to the original one. In retrospect, i should have taken the 78 and put it in the 75 before swapping... Regardless, it seems to run quite well, and shifts well.

the one thing i dont like is it is hard to switch it from first into neutral when the engine is warm, the 1978 had the same problem, but not as often. What's up with that?

 

[XSLeo]

As the engine warms up the cases expand just a bit faster and more than the steel push rod does. Some of us as the engine warms up we adjust the cable at the lever a bit more to compensate for the differing expansion rates.
Some times you might find one adjustment that works both cold and hot. Not likely but you might.
If you can't you adjust the cable for cold and adjust as needed to work well warm.
Leo