Shift Cam and Case Damage

[member3480]

I have shipped to your country many times and yes it can get high. What was the freight cost? I have shipped cases overseas and send them in two boxes and take out the studs and they went by mail. USPS gets you on the weight and size of box and some countries have weight and size limits.

 

[wherearewe]

Ok here it is. Repaired. Not 100% perfect, apparently this is as good as possible without risking complications. I trust the guy who did the repairs. He's done a heap of work for me over the years. He specialises in chassis repairs but also does case work. I don't know why i didn't think go him straight away.

Anyway, the seller refunded me the money, which was what the repair cost me, so no harm no foul.

When you run a torch behind the repaired area, there is a tiny sliver of light coming through. Maybe 5-10mm long. Using a feeler gauge its 0.06mm when the cover is gently torqued on without a gasket. Im pretty sure it will be good, but he suggested a little yamabond in that area, or using 2 oem gaskets as options if it weeps. Or i could further build it up with some JB weld. Regardless its better than it was!

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Oh, yeah, that looks much better.
That 0.06mm (about 2.3 mils) shouldn't be a problem, but I like your jb-weld idea.

Could try a thin bead down the middle of the face (slightly roughened and cleaned first), then tape over it with scotch tape, then clamp a flat plate over that. Or, scotch tape over a longer distance (to spread the spacing), and fit the sidecover. The jb-weld doesn't stick to the scotch tape, and you'll get a smooth/flat buildup...

 

[wherearewe]

Hey so i'm back on the job after a wee summer break.

I am stripping down this second set of cases now, lovely black rattle can job someone has done.
It occurred to me, the factory coats these with some sort of aluminium colour paint correct? This paint is a bit more stubborn than the rattle can stuff but i can see it bubbling. How do you guys get it off? Paint stripper and time? - stuff I'm using is slow.... coat after coat after coat. Soda blasting? Professional dipping?

My plan is to vapour blast and leave raw (i've been told vapour blasting peens the surface slightly giving a pretty good resistance to oxidisation - anyone have experience?). The rods are still in there.

 

[fredintoon]

Hey so i'm back on the job after a wee summer break.

I am stripping down this second set of cases now, lovely black rattle can job someone has done.
It occurred to me, the factory coats these with some sort of aluminium colour paint correct? This paint is a bit more stubborn than the rattle can stuff but i can see it bubbling. How do you guys get it off? Paint stripper and time? - stuff I'm using is slow.... coat after coat after coat. Soda blasting? Professional dipping?

My plan is to vapour blast and leave raw (i've been told vapour blasting peens the surface slightly giving a pretty good resistance to oxidisation - anyone have experience?). The rods are still in there.

Hi wherearewe,
my Heritage Special came with it's motor blacked out.
(which made me smile as I remember painting our old Britbikes cast iron heads and barrels with aluminum paint so they'd look like the posh new machines we couldn't afford)
But yeah, earlier XS650 crankcases had baked on aluminum paint jobs.
The blackout paint faded off my XS650's head and barrels over time, took perhaps 15 years until the top end got back to the colour God intended but the crankcase paint is still as black and shiny as the day it left the factory so yeah, most likely it'll take extreme measures to get your crankcase back to bare metal.
But fer Chrissake don't blast the cases until you've totally removed everything that's in there.
That blasting media gets everywhere and wants to stay there, eh?
PS, for the North American readers who were concerned about tho OP's inspection technique, "torch" = "flashlight" in OZspeak.

 

[wherearewe]

This motor is an 80-81 SH2. It has the baked on aluminium colour under the black. My other (oceania model) 81SH also has the aluminium finish. For now I'm gonna continue with paint stripper but I'm gonna ask around if its painfully slow.

The cases are totally disassembled. The only things left are the studs. Im planning on leaving them in there (unless a guru tells me otherwise). They look like a real pain in the arse to remove. Hoping someone else who has blasted their cases will chime in.

 

[wherearewe]

Just thinking out loud here. Anyone know how the starter gear shaft comes out? Im guessing its pressed in? Im wondering about the post-vapour blasting clean out and whether i could leave it in place.

 

[Signal]

I am guessing you are asking about the shaft that parts 1 to 9 fit on and not shaft 10.

In the cases I had vapour blasted I left it and the retaining screw in. Like you I also left the cylinder studs in as well. The blaster as part of his service sprayed some oil over the cases to stop any steelwork from flash rusting.

The post vapour blasting clean-up was not as bad as when parts are bead blasted but there was still a considerable amount of residue and the retained shaft and studs did not cause a problem.

I cleaned everything twice, after the first clean I cleaned the parts washer, changed the kero and did it again taking special care to ensure the oil galleries were clean both times. Probably excessive but I am satisfied it's clean.

Actually thinking about it the cases were cleaned by me before they went to the blaster as well. This was to reduce the amount of machine time they needed and keep the cost down.

 

[wherearewe]

I am guessing you are asking about the shaft that parts 1 to 9 fit on and not shaft 10.

In the cases I had vapour blasted I left it and the retaining screw in. Like you I also left the cylinder studs in as well. The blaster as part of his service sprayed some oil over the cases to stop any steelwork from flash rusting.

The post vapour blasting clean-up was not as bad as when parts are bead blasted but there was still a considerable amount of residue and the retained shaft and studs did not cause a problem.

I cleaned everything twice, after the first clean I cleaned the parts washer, changed the kero and did it again taking special care to ensure the oil galleries were clean both times. Probably excessive but I am satisfied it's clean.

Actually thinking about it the cases were cleaned by me before they went to the blaster as well. This was to reduce the amount of machine time they needed and keep the cost down.

Thanks Signal. Thats exactly the info i wanted.

 

[wherearewe]

Hi team. So after some time travelling and generally away from the project, I'm back. Last thing i did was have the motor vapour blasted. Then I carefully cleaned it to remove any traces of media and boxed it up.

Now I'm back on the case, as i inspected everything i noticed this fairly significant chip in the head. It wasn't there prior to restoration. My guess is it came away during blasting. Interestingly the other cylinder shows some stress in the same spot but is holding up ok. What do you guys think? Is it gonna be a problem? Should i try and repair? Honestly i feel like I'm chasing endless bad luck here....

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

??? Well, you're just falling apart.

Exhaust port pic #2 in the "head cutaway" thread shows a lot of meat under that crack. So, maybe it could just be filled/patched.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30559

 

[wherearewe]

??? Well, you're just falling apart.

Exhaust port pic #2 in the "head cutaway" thread shows a lot of meat under that crack. So, maybe it could just be filled/patched.

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30559

My case repair guy has taken a look and reckons a weld repair is possible but not the best move. Obvious risk of warpage and distortion to a machined surface. Also it's right next to the iron inserts so the weld wouldnt flow well to the edge. He reckons JB weld will do it, and it should hold up sandwiched between the head and barrel. He tells me he has seen people using it in exhaust ports without issues. I guess that's my play then. If it leaks, ill try something else, like a new head and cover...

 

[Signal]

Maybe you could take it to a cylinder head specialist for an opinion /advice on repair.
Here is another suggestion:
I am pretty sure that the damaged area of the head is surrounded by the head gasket. If this is the case you could assemble the motor and try your luck. Using sealer as 5 Twins does may also help your chances see image.
This suggestion is by no means ideal but if it fails at least you know for sure that repair/ replacement is required.

Unfortunately you also run the risk of having to pull motor and the head again.