Sloppy Handlebars

OK I did fix it,as follows; I wrapped one spot with Black Electricians tape to see exactly what was needed, I found out 7 wraps of tape made the center rod tight to the point of where it expanded the total grommet, I wrapped the whole shaft very tightly and put 3 vertical strips of super glue on every wrap (each strip 1/3rd of the way around). After I was done wrapping it, I couldn't squeeze the grommets all the way in. I had to put one washer on it to pull it together until I could get all the large washers and lock washer on it. The end result is exceedingly firm. it can pull and push a little bit, 1/8th - 1/4" but it feels like it should, and I can't see a reason for replacing them now. I got a lot done on it today, I got the Bars done, replaced a broken turn signal, both hand levers and a new (Dealer take off) seat that has been sitting in the shop since 1976. I ended up paying $300.00 for the seat, but If I am going to refurbish the old girl I want to do it with as many old stock items I can.
I do have a dead right hand flasher and when I put the new flasher stalk in, I saw someone had soldered two red leads and cut them off so there was no exposed wire, I am going to open another thread for that. I took some pictures of the inside of the headlamp bowl from different angles to show as much of the wiring and different angles and pulled apart to see the wires better.
Thanks everybody, I believe this thread is resolved to my satisfaction.. I do have to add money is a huge issue right now. I got hurt at work very badly and ended up with 8 surgeries. The end result is I am for most part disabled. A Judge and my specialists (and Family DR of 24 years) agreed, BUT they have my Disability claim totally messed up, I get 2 or 3 letters on everything showing opposite points in the same day!!!! but mostly they are only giving me 1/3rd of what I am supposed to.
Even they admitted it, and I got ONE correct check, THEN next month they said they over paid me and KEPT the next two months checks COMPLETELY!!??
I have a Lawyer now, which means money but I just can't get anybody to take this issue and follow through, even tho I have all the paper work I need proving it. The issue is they seem to think I am getting checks from Work Comp, AARGH sorry for the long note of my business, but I have to do what I can with the bike on the cheap! I bought the seat 14 yrs ago.
The advice is much appreciated!
Larry
 
Yes, I'm sure about the washer going over the shoulder. How else is it going to compress the rubber if it stops at the shoulder? You are basically adding to the length of the rubber bushing by adding a spacer.
 
+1 ^ weaselbeak did you put your spacer/washer between the two dampers?
The effect of the washer BETWEEN the bushings is completely different (and better) than adding it to the end stack.

hotrod resto 006.JPG

kinda related these risers from a 535 virago move the bars back and up a bit. The through bolts are on the short side, the nut catches but just barely, not enough room for the stop clip.
 
Hey gggGary, what did you do with your Tach Avitar...I liked it...
My problem was the center holes were too big, They have always been loose but not like this. The Electricians tape may not last long but I stretched it tight and thin.
and applied strips of Super Glue every 1/3rd wrap, It locks the tape in place. I have some on wires on my riding mowers that have held for 15 years.
My washers went just to the edge of the grommet not over them. If they start to get loose I will probably go with the solid brass.
 
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I got hurt at work very badly and ended up with 8 surgeries. The end result is I am for most part disabled. A Judge and my specialists (and Family DR of 24 years) agreed, BUT they have my Disability claim totally messed up, I get 2 or 3 letters on everything showing opposite points in the same day!!!! but mostly they are only giving me 1/3rd of what I am supposed to.
Even they admitted it, and I got ONE correct check, THEN next month they said they over paid me and KEPT the next two months checks COMPLETELY!!??
I have a Lawyer now, which means money but I just can't get anybody to take this issue and follow through, even tho I have all the paper work I need proving it. The issue is they seem to think I am getting checks from Work Comp, AARGH sorry for the long note of my business, but I have to do what I can with the bike on the cheap! I bought the seat 14 yrs ago.
The advice is much appreciated!
Larry

Larry, that doesn't sound good at all, hope you get well and fight the bastards, eight surgeries, man you must have been hurt. I am sure it will work out for you, just keep up the fight and keep everything in writing. Our health is foremost and our mental health is really important so keep on with your bike, it will keep you sane during this tough period mate....

Mick

Yes, I'm sure about the washer going over the shoulder. How else is it going to compress the rubber if it stops at the shoulder? You are basically adding to the length of the rubber bushing by adding a spacer.

Gidday Weaselbeak, I think Yamaha designers were sure of their design, that's why they put the shoulder there to stop the over compression of the rubber, also, that's why I made note of it and posted up a picture to show it. If you want to induce the failure of the rubber, just keep on squashing the bloody thing. The rubber shoulder also has nowhere to go when you start compressing it past the steel shoulder on the riser. If the rubbers are new or in operational condition I can see how they work. Compressing them past their original design (by allowing the washer to pass over the shoulder) is not the answer, otherwise Yamaha would have made the hole in the washer larger to pass over the shoulder.......
 
Larry, that doesn't sound good at all, hope you get well and fight the bastards, eight surgeries, man you must have been hurt. I am sure it will work out for you, just keep up the fight and keep everything in writing. Our health is foremost and our mental health is really important so keep on with your bike, it will keep you sane during this tough period mate....

Mick



Gidday Weaselbeak, I think Yamaha designers were sure of their design, that's why they put the shoulder there to stop the over compression of the rubber, also, that's why I made note of it and posted up a picture to show it. If you want to induce the failure of the rubber, just keep on squashing the bloody thing. The rubber shoulder also has nowhere to go when you start compressing it past the steel shoulder on the riser. If the rubbers are new or in operational condition I can see how they work. Compressing them past their original design (by allowing the washer to pass over the shoulder) is not the answer, otherwise Yamaha would have made the hole in the washer larger to pass over the shoulder.......
Thank you Mick for your concern, It is embarrassing writing my Medical issues for so many to see, but I figured everybody would understand why I had taken the cheap rout to resolve some of my issues, I am into the bike waist high after it sitting for 12-13 years. Frankly it is my fault for forgetting that I had left a quart or so of gas in it to move it back home.
If you want to see the other issues I am working on, I have a Thread on some Turn signal issues and carb issues as well.
I plan to repaint her when my medical issues get turned around. I have a poll on the color I should use in the Thread (http://www.xs650.com/threads/flasher-blues.47356/#post-475385) please help me out by voting, or adding your color! My thoughts were either an Aqua or Sapphire Metallic Blue, keep it stock Black (boring) OR a Ruby Red, I will be putting factory decals back on it before the clear coat..
I have had so many people ask me why I am working so hard on an old bike when I could have a new bike?
The simple and straight forward answer is I just don't think they make an affordable Motorcycle built as well as the old XS650's!
I actually have a 2008 C50 Boulevard V-twin that only has a hand full of miles on it. here it is. There is just something about the XS/TX 650 that
is a bit Magical. I don't know if it is the Bike itself or the MEMORIES I have had on them since the late 70's? But if you think I am crazy or not
I would keep my 650 over the Boulevard, especially since I found out they ONLY HAVE A 2 RING PISTON!!!! No wonder guys complain of them starting to burn oil at 35k!
Here is my old 650 in all her dust covered glory, sitting 12+ years isn't good on them!
I am wondering how safe the tires are? They don't really have a ton of miles on them but they are 20 years old, I don't know if having it stored in a heated Garage helps?
They "feel" soft yet, and they actually still have the fresh rubber smell to them?
I put under 600 miles on them before I stored her...

 

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Keep it stock black (boring), but that's the cool thing, black metallic is beautiful, look at it in the sun, just perfect. well that's my thoughts, i might vote again and rig the vote ha!
Don't know about the rubber, i'd be inflating them to the correct pressure and looking for any cracks, seen them on some old Triumph's that have come in from the USA, all split on the walls and one was splitting in the bottom of the treads.....
 
I have inspected the sidewalls and they have no cracks. I was worried mostly about them getting hard and causing a dump on the corners before they get warmed up.. It seems when Tires are kept in a temp controlled they age a lot better.
I have gotten a lot done on her the past 9 days.
Boiled the carbs out with Pine-Sol/cleaned with Gumout and compressed air, polished them up.
Replaced the choke lever.
Got her running!
Fixed the bars.
Fixed the frozen throttle, cleaned it up, it was full of white powdery stuff!
Replaced both clutch and brake levers,
Cleaned Master Cylinder, (was frozen) Drained, bled front Brake.
Broken Flasher stalk replaced.


Left to do that I have parts for...
fix front R flasher electric (think I have the answer.
replace fork seals and covers.
Swing arm Bushings with new bearing type.
Shorty "Bullet" Mufflers
New Clutch cable (I am going to wait awhile for that old one is still OK)
Cam Chain Adjuster is leaking, I have a gasket coming, What gasket sealer to use, if any?
also what torque do those little 6 mm bolts need?
 
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