The upper set of points should hook to the right coil.
Where the wires from the points plug into the wires from the coils just switch them.
Leo
Where the wires from the points plug into the wires from the coils just switch them.
Leo
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Somethings WRONG!
- Thread starter CaseySmithersxs
- Start date
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
10-4, gonna do that, but do you think that could have thrown my timing or burn up a coil? Bike was running fine though.
Just having the wires crossed won't really effect anything.
Leo
Leo
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
Okay, just changed out the coil and its STILL DOING THE SAME THING! Started sputtering then died out... And wouldnt start back up. Had to to push it a half mile home. Im starting get really fustrated with this turd.
OEM replacement? Or did you go with Leo's suggestion and run a dual output? Also...is it possible that this is not a fuel or "coil" issue but a charging/regulation issue? I had similar issues with a bike that wasn't properly charging. Check to make sure your reg and rect are properly grounded and there's no shorts in their connections. If the fuel, and ignition have been eliminated as suspects I have to believe the charging system is the only place left to look unless its an engine issue which it doesn't sound like.
Are you running the stock wire harness or a home job?
Are you running the stock wire harness or a home job?
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
Home job, 650 central replacement coil, and ive got a Reg/rec combo from 650 central also...
Any chance you have/can draw up a diagram of how you've got it wired? I had an issue similar to this and my issue lied in the fact that the reg/rect unit wasn't properly grounded. I was overcharging and blowing pamcos, but before they'd blow it'd behave similar to yours. It sounds almost that you're undercharging though like my buddies cb750. He gets an intermittent charge from his stators rotor going bad...sometimes it'll run fine...sometimes you get ten minutes out and it won't rev above 3 grand and then dies. Nylon or stock screws in the stator plate? Can you pull an OHM reading off the rotor?
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
Lol no way im going to draw up a diagram... Stock screws on the stator, Mike at 650 central told me to not put the nylon screws. And havent put a meter on anything since I got home from pushing. How would I check all of that?
on the 77' you typically don't need it. And youtube is your friend on this stuff. Lot of people don't think to look there but there's usually a video for everything. Unfortunately you'd have to pull it...but that only takes a couple minute if you have a rotor puller.
Listen to the last half regarding the slap test. If you can't pull it.
Flip the key. Make sure you're getting 12V from the ignition switch to the brushes and that the magnetic field is being created when you turn the key. A screw driver works as the testing item ha.
Listen to the last half regarding the slap test. If you can't pull it.
Flip the key. Make sure you're getting 12V from the ignition switch to the brushes and that the magnetic field is being created when you turn the key. A screw driver works as the testing item ha.
I dont' imagine that if the issue lies here that the rotor has gone "bad" so to say, but it very well could be on its way out the door...just like my buddies.
I just read through the thread. It was never made clear. Did you block off your vacuum barbs...i'm assuming you did if you've been able to ride it and if so with what? I've had BAD luck with regular vacuum plugs...they seem to occasionally fly off/expand when heated up. Also is it possible that you've got a vacuum leak that only becomes active after the rubber heats to a certain temp at the carb boots? How do they look? New or old? My 77' with BS38's does not have barbs on the carb boots so i'm curious as to what boots are one yours and if maybe they're losing vacuum when they get hot.
Here's my recommendation...and i've been through this on all 9 of the bikes I own. Isolate the systems of the bike. Igniton, charging, fuel/air delivery. Once you know its not 2 of these, you've likely found where the problem lies. From what we know it doesn't sound like the ignition is bad especially since you have spark. You know you have fuel flow...but we don't know the details of what the fuels system is doing yet. We (I) assume its charging if you can ride all day...but that doesn't mean it's doing it properly. It's not as much work/bullSh*tting around with stuff as you might think. Some simple test should lead you to the culprit. Make sure it's charging and not over/undercharging and then you've pretty much narrowed it down to a fuel delivery issue...assuming all grounds and connections are tight and correct.
I just read through the thread. It was never made clear. Did you block off your vacuum barbs...i'm assuming you did if you've been able to ride it and if so with what? I've had BAD luck with regular vacuum plugs...they seem to occasionally fly off/expand when heated up. Also is it possible that you've got a vacuum leak that only becomes active after the rubber heats to a certain temp at the carb boots? How do they look? New or old? My 77' with BS38's does not have barbs on the carb boots so i'm curious as to what boots are one yours and if maybe they're losing vacuum when they get hot.
Here's my recommendation...and i've been through this on all 9 of the bikes I own. Isolate the systems of the bike. Igniton, charging, fuel/air delivery. Once you know its not 2 of these, you've likely found where the problem lies. From what we know it doesn't sound like the ignition is bad especially since you have spark. You know you have fuel flow...but we don't know the details of what the fuels system is doing yet. We (I) assume its charging if you can ride all day...but that doesn't mean it's doing it properly. It's not as much work/bullSh*tting around with stuff as you might think. Some simple test should lead you to the culprit. Make sure it's charging and not over/undercharging and then you've pretty much narrowed it down to a fuel delivery issue...assuming all grounds and connections are tight and correct.
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
Just put new carbs boots on today, the ones without the barbs on them. Check for vac leaks and all is good there. The bike only starts to act up when I get in the throttle pretty hard, im going to test the stator and the points. And walkthrough on how to check the points?
For the points, make sure the advance unit (RHside) opens and closes with ease. The springs will eventually wear out. Then make sure the actual points them selves do not have a built up scale on them and are filed flat. There are a few how to's on here describing how to properly set them to get the timing in spec.
it doesn't sound like an ignition issue though. If it's happening under heavy throttle/high rpms it's likely charging or fuel related. The point system operates essentially the same under all conditions. The charging system however will generate more electricity/higher voltage as the RPMS increase and if not wired right (ie grounding properly) will send that voltage into the other units...you'd see this demonstrated with blown fuses if you have them wired in. If not it'll blow your charging system if its electric (IE pamco/boyer) if you spike over 15A you'll blow the headlight.
Issues in the carbs are a whole 'nother monster. The carbs function differently at all stages of throttle pull. and the carb guide is your best bet there.
But stay on the path you're on. Isolate the systems. Break it down into what you KNOW is working and eventually you'll discover the issue.
If you find the time i highly suggest drawing up a wiring diagram. Again it's not as hard as it sounds. it will help us to "see" the error if its in the wiring. If not keep testing and make sure all connections are solid.
it doesn't sound like an ignition issue though. If it's happening under heavy throttle/high rpms it's likely charging or fuel related. The point system operates essentially the same under all conditions. The charging system however will generate more electricity/higher voltage as the RPMS increase and if not wired right (ie grounding properly) will send that voltage into the other units...you'd see this demonstrated with blown fuses if you have them wired in. If not it'll blow your charging system if its electric (IE pamco/boyer) if you spike over 15A you'll blow the headlight.
Issues in the carbs are a whole 'nother monster. The carbs function differently at all stages of throttle pull. and the carb guide is your best bet there.
But stay on the path you're on. Isolate the systems. Break it down into what you KNOW is working and eventually you'll discover the issue.
If you find the time i highly suggest drawing up a wiring diagram. Again it's not as hard as it sounds. it will help us to "see" the error if its in the wiring. If not keep testing and make sure all connections are solid.
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
10-4 thanks man. Ill post the outcome
I doubt this is your problem but placing it this way can trap air and will gather dirt in side the filter, not around it. This combination stop a proper fuel flow.
CaseySmithersxs
XS650 Junkie
Lol Im pretty sure its on the right way, but Ill flip her around and see.
