On your engine to frame grounds, you say you had it powder coated. This insulates the engine from the frame. At each mount, at least the upper rear, the triangular one and the front mount. Remove the mounts. Any place the mounts touch the frame, clean the powder off the frame. Clean off the mounts at the same places so you have a clean metal to metal connection. Do the same at the point your battery ground strap mounts to the frame.
I do all my mounts this way. A thin coat of grease keeps them from rusting.
After the 750 kit it was a bit tougher to use the e-start. I added a stronger battery 275 cca's over the stock 200 cca's.
I also swapped the small stock cables for 6 ga cable. I also ran a 6 ga cable off one of the starter to engine mount bolts up to battery negative. These heavier cables pass more power from battery to starter so more of the power from the bigger battery actually gets to the starter. The cable from the starter mount bolt to battery bypasses all those engine to frame grounds.
Once you have a good ground from starter to engine to frame to battery then testing the starter is easy. Do you have a set of jumper cables? If so park your car close to the bike. Now with the car engine not running, run the jumper cables from the car battery to the bike, hook the ground jumper to a good frame ground, I use the front foot peg mount.
Use a large Phillips head screw driver, put it in the positive jumper cable clamp. Use the screw driver as a probe. Now get down under the bike, touch the probe to the stud on the starter where the cable hooks to the starter. Does it spin the starter?
If not pull the starter and bench test.
If it turns the engine, move up to the starter relay, touch the probe to the stud on the relay that has the cable to the starter, does the engine crank?
Now unhook the jumper cables from the car and bike. Now use a large set of pliers to jump from the cable to the starter to the cable lug from the battery positive. Engine crank?
This series of tests tell you the starter is good and the connections and battery are ok.
Now on the starter relay test the voltage on the red/white wire, Key and engine stop switch in the run positions. It should read the same as battery voltage, if not you have a bad connection between the battery and the red/white wire at the starter relay, trace the wires to find and fix the voltage issue. Usually the engine stop switch, key switch or ignition fuse has dirty connections. The switches can be taken apart and cleaned. Same with the fuse. If you still have the stock round glass fuses it is a good ideal to upgrade to the more modern blade style fuses.
Once you have power to the red/white wire unplug the blue/white wire. use a jumper to hook this blue/white to ground, switches on, does the engine crank. If so plug the blue/white back in. Try the start button. Does it crank? If not then the ground path from the starter rely blue/white wire has issues. Most probably at the bars. The starter push button grounds through the bars. Early use a ground wire from under one riser nut around to a top tree clamp bolt, through the trees and bearings to the frame, back to battery. On the later the bars ground through a black wire on the left side controls housing down to a harness ground in the headlight bucket.
Leo
I do all my mounts this way. A thin coat of grease keeps them from rusting.
After the 750 kit it was a bit tougher to use the e-start. I added a stronger battery 275 cca's over the stock 200 cca's.
I also swapped the small stock cables for 6 ga cable. I also ran a 6 ga cable off one of the starter to engine mount bolts up to battery negative. These heavier cables pass more power from battery to starter so more of the power from the bigger battery actually gets to the starter. The cable from the starter mount bolt to battery bypasses all those engine to frame grounds.
Once you have a good ground from starter to engine to frame to battery then testing the starter is easy. Do you have a set of jumper cables? If so park your car close to the bike. Now with the car engine not running, run the jumper cables from the car battery to the bike, hook the ground jumper to a good frame ground, I use the front foot peg mount.
Use a large Phillips head screw driver, put it in the positive jumper cable clamp. Use the screw driver as a probe. Now get down under the bike, touch the probe to the stud on the starter where the cable hooks to the starter. Does it spin the starter?
If not pull the starter and bench test.
If it turns the engine, move up to the starter relay, touch the probe to the stud on the relay that has the cable to the starter, does the engine crank?
Now unhook the jumper cables from the car and bike. Now use a large set of pliers to jump from the cable to the starter to the cable lug from the battery positive. Engine crank?
This series of tests tell you the starter is good and the connections and battery are ok.
Now on the starter relay test the voltage on the red/white wire, Key and engine stop switch in the run positions. It should read the same as battery voltage, if not you have a bad connection between the battery and the red/white wire at the starter relay, trace the wires to find and fix the voltage issue. Usually the engine stop switch, key switch or ignition fuse has dirty connections. The switches can be taken apart and cleaned. Same with the fuse. If you still have the stock round glass fuses it is a good ideal to upgrade to the more modern blade style fuses.
Once you have power to the red/white wire unplug the blue/white wire. use a jumper to hook this blue/white to ground, switches on, does the engine crank. If so plug the blue/white back in. Try the start button. Does it crank? If not then the ground path from the starter rely blue/white wire has issues. Most probably at the bars. The starter push button grounds through the bars. Early use a ground wire from under one riser nut around to a top tree clamp bolt, through the trees and bearings to the frame, back to battery. On the later the bars ground through a black wire on the left side controls housing down to a harness ground in the headlight bucket.
Leo
