Stripped Float Bowl Screw

[YL82]

I installed a nut to secure one M4x16 SST socket head screw to a float bowl screw hole that I stripped.

Will that suffice or is some other addtional action necessary?

Not sure whether I need to add a tad of blue loctite on threads around nut.

I don't have the stomach or expertise to perform tap & die and use oversized screw. REALLY don't want to do that.

Just tighten nut and leave it at that?

Belatedly, I decided to use copper anti-seize since I have aluminum threads and stainless fasteners.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[gggGary]

That looks serviceable to me. Careful, there's a reason those screws were just phillips head to start with. LOL.

 

[YL82]

Apparently!

I didn't use a torque wrench, but it looks like I should go no more than ~2.5 N-m..?

I was using a Proto T-handle.

A related question (I've looked over forums for some commentary..), but is it advisable to use a small amount of anti-seize compound on both sides of the float-bowl gasket?

Thanks!

 

[jd750ace]

The only thing I have ever put on a float bowl gasket is vaseline. It dissolves in fuel, so no possibility of cogging anything up.

 

[YL82]

Vaseline, huh?

I'll give it a shot!

Thank You!

 

[gggGary]

Yeah, not anti seize it has particles of metal (aluminum or copper) in it. Nothing more than a regular screw driver handle for tightening, those screws are small and have lock washers specially on the BS38s and a T-handle will lead to over-torquing, uh, you already knew that. And over-tightening will bend the bowl flanges at the corners creating leaks, just snug, not too tight. Maybe it's just me but I have never had a bowl screw loosen up in use. I have been in more than a couple of carbs. Those allen heads are dangerous.

 

[YL82]

I REALLY don't like the looks of that nut I have on there. I'm confident that it's secure and that it will hold up, but....

Is a helicoil a practical/feasible solution for such a short length?

What got me thinking....I've got a HEL M4 Kit coming my way (to address another one of my F__Up's) on my carb choke lever which is the same size, so I got to wondering about going back to the eyesore nut on my float bowl....

 

[weekendrider]

Yes it works.

 

[YL82]

I haven't received my kit yet, but I'm wondering whether the kit will include both bottom type taps and through types...? I've never done a heli-coil repair..so....Baptism under Fire.

I went with HeliCoil Brand (Part Number HEL55464 or 5546-4), so I'll have to see what the kit includes.

Thankfully, the hole I stripped isn't one where the carb body is in the way. I went with a 13 mm on that one (thanks, 5twins!), so I didn't "screw" that one up.

If you take a look at the image at the start of the Thread, it shows that I should have plenty of real estate. Yes, I'm learning my lessons (the hard way) with the Allen Heads and with SST going into Aluminum.

 

[jd750ace]

The way your nut is installed, you should not need the bottoming tap. It appears that you can take it all the way through. The tap will exit where your nut is located.

The basic kit does not usually include the bottoming tap. Where I used to work, we would always order a second tap and grind it off to make the bottoming tap, because it can be pretty hit and miss getting ahold of them by part number. Just a thought, in case you run out of room. Then you'll have a top kit for the next one!

 

[YL82]

Do I want to end up with the insert flush at the exit end (bottom) and 1-2 threads recessed at the head end?

Not sure that question makes sense.