Stripped Thread Repair Valve Cover Studs

jetmechmarty

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My engine swap is taking an eternity, so far. A while back, I made one of these repairs after seeing it on the YouTube Channel FIX MY HOG. This time, I’m documenting it for your pleasure.

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I have two stripped holes.

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Release agent.

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Five minutes, then back it off.

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New threads.

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And, I’m done!
 
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I hadn't seen this one, how do you think it compares to helicoil? I see the disclaimer on the packaging.
john
I do not think this compares to helicoil. I used it a few years ago to make threads on an XS gas cap. It has been holding against that spring pressure all this time and I didn’t repair threads, I made new ones. On this valve cover, I think it’s great. I saved me time and money. If it fails, I can still install a helicoil, or do this again. On FIX MY HOG, they used it to install engine covers where the case stripped. I believe it’s perfectly appropriate for that.
 
Loctite's Form-A-Thread product data sheet specifies 45 inch pounds as maximum torque on 8 mm. fasteners (for the math challenged, that's just shy of 4 foot pounds).The 1,538 inch pound limit specified on the package applies to 14 mm. fasteners. On small fasteners, use only in light duty applications--like valve cover studs. Nice work, Marty.
 
Since these covers use 3 bolts the other 2 can take up most of the duty of that stripped one via leverage. A new silicone o-ring and CAREFUL snugging of the other two I'd guess you wouldn't even need to replace the stripped one. Good call Marty!
Pretty sure I've tip toed past a stripping out valve cover stud a time or two.
 
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I've used JB Weld to do the same thing. The most important thing is surface prep. Everything as to be clean. Any thing on the surfaces will cause a failure.
Leo
I actually learned this trick as a kid flying model airplanes. Ripped out screw holes were repaired with Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy. I used Vaseline on the screws as a release agent.
The LOCTITE stuff leaves nice neat threads. In this case, I didn’t add enough time to account for the cold. Just the same, I believe it will hold fine.
 
Hey, folks. I am dealing with the same problem. Bottom stud on the right exhaust valve cover. I've looked through the threads and seen the various fixes: Gary's "meatball mechanic" homemade reducer stud, JB Weld, or high-temp/slow-set epoxy, Marty's form-a-thread, and Heli Coil. I don't think I am going to do Gary's thing, although it seems very good. So any recommendations on which way to jump? Has anyone tried a Time Sert style thing here - is there enough meat in the casting for that? Thanks very much! Justin
 
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