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I am trying to remove the rear axle from my 1981 XS650 Special. I have remove the cotter pin from the nut but when I put a socket on the nut and turn the entire axle spins. Is this normal?
Yes it is, if you look at the other side of the axle, you will see a hole drilled through it. This hole is to put something like a quality #2 Phillips screwdriver through to hold the axle from spinning while loosening/ removing the axle nut.
When you put it back on, a piece of 2x4 under the tire will hold it at a real good level for lining everything up so that it's not big fight. Hook up your brake stay before your tighten the axle or you'll have to loosen it again...
Wow everyone. Thanks for all of the responses. One additional question.
The reason I am removing the axle is to switch the bolt around. Currently, my nut/cotter pin is on the right side of the bike and I would like for it to be on the left so I can mount a license plate holder (I think it looks better on the left).
Is switch the axle just a matter of removing it, switching it, and putting it back in? Does anything else have to be done. I am going to get a buddy to help me so it can be done real quick while he holds the tire. That way I hopefuly don't disturb anything.
I'm not totally sure, but is'nt the chain adjusters specific for left/right side?
The RHS adjuster has a smaller outer hole that fits just over the thinner, threaded part of the axle, the LHS adjuster don't.
I'm not sure, maybe someone else can chip in on this also.
If I'm right that should not be a big deal. Just flip the adjusters. Don't worry about 'disturbing' something. That's what this forum is for. Search, as and try again..
two ... a spool shaped one on the brake side and a flying saucer on the sprocket here's a web site where you can look up any assembly and order of installation
Clean and grease the axle while you have it out, oil is okay if no grease. Even a bit of corrosion will hang up an axle on a bike. Been there many times, lot's of penetrating oil. The first rule of vintage bikes, "First do no harm!" Don't go whanging away with a hammer, okay. ;^)
Something else amazing that most folks don't know. The axle torque is 108 ft. lbs. {8^o
On my 75 the right side adjuster only has the alignment mark so it's visible when on the right side.
I like to use anti-sieze one axles, they go in and come out very easy.
Oh, leave the plate on the fender where it belongs, look stupid on the axle.
Leo
Yeah , well I look stupid on a lambretta . Is that the scooters fault or does this post make my ass look fat . To each their own Leo . I still think hard tails are stupid but ...
+ several on lube axle , clean , inspect repack bearings . and you're only shock removal away from inspecting the swing arm for bushing failure .
~kop
P.S. OT question Leo , Do you have the pics that go with Jack's porting thread elsewhere ? Mine are unavailable atm to to acts perpetrated buy nameless vindictive gods of volatile digital storage .
I can't seem to get my axle out!! When I stick my screw driver in the hole and spin my axle the brake plate spins!!, when I secure it I bend my srew driver. It's on a TC Bros hard tail. Any suggestions ?
Bending the screwdriver? Something doesn't seem right to me. The screwdriver just holds the axle in place so you can loosen the nut on the other side. Once the nut is loose and off you should be able to drive the axle out with no prob. If that doesn't work you might want to post a pic or two of your setup.
The nuts off, the axle spins and so does the brake plate. I hold the brake plate and bind the screw drive and the axle does not budge. Can't do a pic at the moment
There is weight from the wheel on the axle that will play into this a little but not so much that the axle shouldn't budge. You should be able to tap the axle out from the side the nut came off. The axle is not threaded so it will not come out like a screw if that is what you are assuming. You might need to hold the tire up with a 2x4 or something laying around. Also be sure the brake stay and anything else going to the wheel is taken off first too..
Use a chunk of aluminum to protect the end of the axle before you beat on it. You can also thread the nut on backwards till it's flush with the end of the axle then protect with aluminum before beating on it. Once the axle moves you can remove the nut and continue driving out the axle. Sounds like your axle is frozen to the brake plate. Use plenty of your favorite rust buster, once the axle moves tap it back IN more rust buster tap it out again. any time it binds go back the other way more rust buster and out again. Any thing you can use to brace the brake plate so your blow's energy is concentrated on breaking the axle free from the brake plate will help.