sump

[jefft]

Is it possible for the bottom engine case to be warped where the sump cover mounts? I layed a straight edge along the back sealing surface of the sump opening and it appears to be perfectly flat. I then layed a straight edge along the opening of the front sump sealing surface and the straight edge dosen't lay flat. The surface itself is clean as can be. I was suspecting the sump cover but now I wonder if the lower engine case sump sealing surface itself could be warped. I have been having trouble getting a good seal along this front sealing surface. It has leaked at the right front corner. I also notice that the fin at the right corner where the leak occurs has obviously took an impact at some time.
jefft

 

[PetesPonies]

do you install the gasket dry or with something?

 

[ann0yed]

I made the mistake of reinstalling my sump cover with a dry gasket and had major leaks afterward. I then tried a film of grease on both sides, still leaked. Then I dispensed with the paper gasket altogether.

I cleaned both surfaces with a solvent and applied Permatex grey 1-minute gasket to the sump cover making sure to go all the way around the bolt holes and then tightened it with light pressure on a small socket wrench just to where the bolts stopped. Never had a leak after that.

The good thing about the Permatex gasket is that it will fill uneven surfaces and I bet it would solve your leaky corner problem.

 

[jefft]

I bought my first XS in early 80's and have owned many since and have changed more than a few sump gaskets. This one is different. I have cleaned the surfaces until I think I may have rubbed away a few thousands trying to get it perfectly clean and have used all sorts of cleaners. I have installed the gasket dry, with goop on one side, with goop on both sides and have experimented with different thickness gaskets and even made my own. I now believe the case surface is not level. I may try just the permatex as mentioned above. The surfaces are not marred up. I have tried several sump covers. Can a case be deformed enough to cause this. I do see some uneveness as I lay a straightedge along the front aspect of the sump sealing surface on the case. You say you tightened the bolts until light pressure. Is that to say you didn't torque to 7 ft lb per spec.

jefft

 

[ann0yed]

I wish I could answer your question about whether your case is deformed or not, I just don't have the knowledge.

I did try to use a torque wrench on the bolts and ended up snapping one (as they are meant to do) so after the nightmare of removing the bit left in the case, I decided to forego the torque wrench and just tried to make them all the same level of tightness.

Try the Permatex, follow the directions and use a good fat bead, you may just find this problem suddenly solved and then you can move on to another on the list.

 

[gggGary]

Assemble dry with some "prussian blue" rub a bit see where it is and isn't touching.

Try a double gasket, or cut your own out of heavier stock?
I guess if you were real brave you could try a file......
Maybe file the cover to match the case?
I haven't run into a leaker, yet.
http://www.permatex.com/products/au...ebuilder_aids/auto_Permatex_Prussian_Blue.htm

As always check around the bolt holes for distortion caused by overtightening.

 

[jefft]

Have tried a heavier gasket and permatex blue and got it to seal prior to this oil change. I don't look forward to oil changes with this big hassel every time. I will try the permatex without a gasket as that is something I haven't tried yet.
Jefft

 

[hard_y_rd]

I cleaned all gasket surfaces, oiled my new gasket and torqued to spec. Seems to leak a bit. Also a bit of oil weeping from one of the lower case acorn nuts. Seem like the copper washer shifted a bit . Never started it yet. I would like to get it leak free.

 

[xjwmx]

if the case isn't flat you're going to have to use either a sealer on the case side of the gasket or maybe a cork gasket. I'd use a paper gasket of the right thickness, with semi-hardening sealer on the case side. No big deal. Don't put sealer on both sides. Clean the gasket mating area with brake cleaner. You can take care of raised bolt holes by twisting a bit by hand in there.

 

[jd750ace]

Agree with xjwmx. If you need a sealer, one side only. This is how I done mine.
Gasket dry against the motor and a light coat of ultra black on the lower face. The plate is easier to clean than the bottom of the motor.
Permatex RTV Ultra black because it's the best damn case sealer I've found. This stuff seals any fluid you can throw at it.

 

[5twins]

Sometimes a few heat cycles will seal slight leaks. I usually re-check the torque after a few heat cycles as well, especially if the gasket is new. They tend to compress a bit.

 

[xjwmx]

I noticed some versions of Permatex rtv don't adhere much, which can be good. I'd probably use that on both sides. The reason is if the dip is very broad especially, sealer on the case side only will take care of the case side of the gasket but in the area of the dip the cover might not be tight enough on the gasket as it needs to be.

 

[hard_y_rd]

Sometimes a few heat cycles will seal slight leaks. I usually re-check the torque after a few heat cycles as well, especially if the gasket is new. They tend to compress a bit.

Good to know. I usually thought that oil leaked worse with a few heat cycles. I don't want to start this thing up and have oil flying everywhere.