to re-phase or not...

wannabridin

wannabridin

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to re-phase or not... (ned MOD'S help cleaning up please!)

Hello everyone. trying to figure something out here...

I'm wondering if i should take the dive and do a re-phase on my stock displacement motor? no real big plans are in the works for power, but i really do love the sound and the reduced vibes.

planning on doing one of Mikes big-fin 650cc cylinder blocks for the looks and additional cooling. already have a PMA and pamco (would need to sell and get a new one for re-phase).

one day i'd like to go with a 750, lectrons, bigger cam, etc. but for now, i'd just like to make SOME progress with my build. any advice is much appreciated, thanks guys!!
 
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I had been on the fence for a long time but I bought another good crank and cam. I am going to be sending it to Hugh gonna do it right have me a re-phased 750 street tracker baby! Do some reading there was a great post I forget who it was that had built his motor and messed with never happy, the had Hugh straighten shit out and he loves his machine now.
 
Looks and sound less vibration and better cooling. Since from your build thread you haven't had the bike running yet. I would ride it first. Then decide if you want to dump a ton of money into motor. The XS 650 never had an overheating problem that I know of. Gary hoos said that the bored and sleeved 750 motors had no overheating problems. That being said you decide what is best for you. :thumbsup:
 
ya, i haven't done anything, but i'll have another member on here who will have his stock motor bobber done soon and he already told me i could take it around the block or so to see if i mind the vibes.

i'm not looking at dumping a bunch of money into the motor, but if the rephase will have it running smoother and allow me to access more of the available power, then it will also allow me to go up in performance in the future and get the most out of that too. i have to see if it's worth it to spend the money now, or if i should upgrade most of the internals now with it all torn down to save a potential problem later if i want to do it then...
 
The consensus is it's a ripoff, or say something to do if money is burning a hole in your pocket. There are better ways to spend your money if you have to spend it.,
 
xjwmx said:
The consensus is it's a ripoff, or say something to do if money is burning a hole in your pocket. There are better ways to spend your money if you have to spend it.,
Click to expand...


Never heard of a consensus being done on the rephrase. Maybe in your mind..........


This can be done quite cheaply if you do a lot of it your self. I would get a mrrigs cam because of the way he does his and it can be done so that it can be used as a rephrase or standard cam.
If you intend to thrash the motor or wheel stand the bike then a welded crank is a must but if you are a firm and steady rider without going over the red line then the crank doesn't have to be welded and can be used again when/if it is needed. Once it is welded then if a bearing or conrod goes then it is time to find another crank and rebuild, this is when it gets expensive.
 
I agree, however I do weld them, but not by fully welding the pins (for the exact reason you have hi-lighted below).
2 x 10mm tac welds 180' degrees apart is plenty to stop a these cranks from torquing apart.
IMO - fully welded pins are the domain of big torque/big HP engines.
I have pressed 2 xs cranks apart this week, one was an older (machined web surface) high milage crank & was quite loose on the pins. The other was newer (cast finish) and much tighter on the pins & had the centre spline loc-tited together.

[/QUOTE]This can be done quite cheaply if you do a lot of it your self. I would get a mrrigs cam because of the way he does his and it can be done so that it can be used as a rephrase or standard cam.
If you intend to thrash the motor or wheel stand the bike then a welded crank is a must but if you are a firm and steady rider without going over the red line then the crank doesn't have to be welded and can be used again when/if it is needed. Once it is welded then if a bearing or conrod goes then it is time to find another crank and rebuild, this is when it gets expensive.[/QUOTE]
 
If you are ever in the area, you can take a test spin on any one of our Rephased Bikes - I'm hoping to have a heritage special in mostly stock condition with a rephased 650cc engine this year so that folks can take a spin and see if it's a mod for them.

Do a search for username "Alfredo" on here, he had a really good testimony for how it transformed his machine. In the end, it's not a modification for everyone, but out of the 400 - 500 cranks and cams we've done, we've not had a single person regret doing it.

I hate to be a salesman, so do some reading up on the mod. There is some good reading right here on this forum, as well as the Hugh's HandBuilt Blog and other places as well that will help you decide if it's for you.

And as always, if I can be of any assistance or help at all, let me know

Hugh
 
my cam and crank are getting the treatment at hhb right now. :thumbsup:

for me, i needed new rods and run-out was out of spec on my crank so it needed some tlc anyways. sure i could have purchased a used one in 'decent' condition but at the end of the day if i'm going that deep into a rebuild it was an easy decision for me to make.
 
When I worked on Yamaha's, 1977 to 1983, we tuned allot of XS650's. Standard procedure when finished was to start them up, rev the to about 2500rpm and rotate them on the center stand to point them back out the door. Added by all the vibration they spun on the center stand like it was on marbles.

In 2003 I started my tracker that took 2 years to build and included a 270 pin.

You can't spin my bike on the center stand like I did, that's a good thing!!!:laugh:
 
Good article Hugh. I have a rephrased Crank. No doubt about it once you spin it you can tell. It spins freely where the stock crank for the lack of a better word flops over. Pretty easy to tell it would vibrate less. As far as bang for your bucks Hugh is on the top of the list fair prices. My advice to wannabirdin was based on his build thread. The motor seemed like it might not need a tear down. He was talking budget build I was trying to help. :D
 
I said the consensus is it's a ripoff. Can't I say that? What a bunch of friggin losers in this thread.

Every mechanic I've asked about it either said it was a ripoff or never heard of it. That's a consensus. Real mechanics.
 
xjwmx said:
I said the consensus is it's a ripoff. Can't I say that? What a bunch of friggin losers in this thread.

Every mechanic I've asked about it either said it was a ripoff or never heard of it. That's a consensus. Real mechanics.
Click to expand...

Well those so called real mechanics I doubt if you know any are wrong. I do think you know a lot of losers being one yourself. :thumbsup:
 
Here are some links to rephrase articles. One of the articles is what the letter that Hugh received refers to.

This is from the Aussie 650 club who were pioneers in the implementation and some development of the Rephrase crank.

1

2

3

4
 
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xjwmx said:
I said the consensus is it's a ripoff. Can't I say that? What a bunch of friggin losers in this thread.

Every mechanic I've asked about it either said it was a ripoff or never heard of it. That's a consensus. Real mechanics.
Click to expand...


If they have never heard of it, they can't be included in the consensus for or against

as for the rest they Probably never researched or had anything to do with it and are relying on common knowledge without facts
 
Brian902 said:
When I worked on Yamaha's, 1977 to 1983, we tuned allot of XS650's. Standard procedure when finished was to start them up, rev the to about 2500rpm and rotate them on the center stand to point them back out the door. Added by all the vibration they spun on the center stand like it was on marbles.

In 2003 I started my tracker that took 2 years to build and included a 270 pin.

You can't spin my bike on the center stand like I did, that's a good thing!!!:laugh:
Click to expand...

Another reason not to take your vehicle to mechanical shops
 

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