Sorry everyone it'
s been a while since I've posted, pretty busy haha. Can I flush the lines and rebuild the mister cylinder and save it? I really don't want to have to buy a new one. Also, this is a quick pic inside the combustion chamber I think? I just feel like all that gunk isn't really normal, recommendations?
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Took apart my master cylinder....
- Thread starter Grimmith
- Start date
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
That is not your combusrion chamber. That is the exhaust port.
The combustion chanber is were you piston lives.
The combustion chanber is were you piston lives.
Hi Grimmith,
like they say; "I've seen worse".
You'd be amazed how well a master cylinder will clean up if you take it completely apart. You may not even need to buy a seal kit.
But that view down the exhaust port is a solid hint that your bike could use a head job.
like they say; "I've seen worse".
You'd be amazed how well a master cylinder will clean up if you take it completely apart. You may not even need to buy a seal kit.
But that view down the exhaust port is a solid hint that your bike could use a head job.
Oh alright haha. Any recommendations for cleaning all that gunk out of their without taking the engine off? My main focus right now is to just get it running. I found out yesterday that one of my petcocks was cracked inside so now I have to save up for that part 
lol
lol
That's just the reservoir the piston and bore will be much worse, but that one's not that bad, often no parts needed. Don't remove the rubber seal from the piston just clean it in place. Little bill has great MC rebuild how to in tech.
Don't worry about the engine yet just get 'r running and see whatcha got.
Don't worry about the engine yet just get 'r running and see whatcha got.
p.s. remove plugs and valve covers, lots of lube on valve stems and some in the plug holes. I like a bit of rust buster, kick it for a bit then hit it with motor oil. But that's just my way. Do lots of foot or electric engine cranking before you attempt to "fire it up", one of the valves has been sitting open for a long time. One or more valves might be a bit sticky which can be a bent valve instantly when it's running.
Hi Grimmith,
in addition to what Gary said; after you've removed the valve covers and spark plugs and squirted the valve stems with penetrating oil and BEFORE you try kicking the engine over I'd advise you slowly and carefully turn the engine over by hand to see by observing the valve clearance if any of the valves are sticking part way down.
Turn it with a box-end wrench on the alternator rotor retaining nut. Backwards because forwards will most likely undo the nut before the motor will turn.
That way you can see and feel a valve head hitting a piston before it does too much damage.
And the brake job don't stop at the master cylinder. Most likely the caliper is also full of crud and for sure the original brake hose is WAY past it's "best before" date and should be replaced.
I'd say a stainless brake hose and a smaller diameter master cylinder would be good upgrades but a replacement fabric line and a cleanup will put the bike back on the road.
in addition to what Gary said; after you've removed the valve covers and spark plugs and squirted the valve stems with penetrating oil and BEFORE you try kicking the engine over I'd advise you slowly and carefully turn the engine over by hand to see by observing the valve clearance if any of the valves are sticking part way down.
Turn it with a box-end wrench on the alternator rotor retaining nut. Backwards because forwards will most likely undo the nut before the motor will turn.
That way you can see and feel a valve head hitting a piston before it does too much damage.
And the brake job don't stop at the master cylinder. Most likely the caliper is also full of crud and for sure the original brake hose is WAY past it's "best before" date and should be replaced.
I'd say a stainless brake hose and a smaller diameter master cylinder would be good upgrades but a replacement fabric line and a cleanup will put the bike back on the road.
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