Trailering

[ReycleBill]

Allow me to begin by stating I am a retired truck driver with over 3 million miles of accident-free experience across the USA, Canada, and Mexican border towns. I know how to pull trailers.

The item in the photo is a quick disconnect for motorcycle brake lines. I currently own a tandem axle 20' long trailer with tilt bed and a winch. I made it myself and it pulls, turns, and stops like a dream. It has rub rails, removable sideboards, and plenty of tiedowns. It can carry more motorcycles than my half ton '88 Dodge pick-up can safely haul. It also has hydraulic brakes actuated by a master cylinder located in the tongue. I will never again pull any trailer without brakes on the trailer itself. Besides, the GVWR on my truck is only 5,000 lbs and the overall weight of the truck alone is 4,400 lbs.

I'm considering building a much smaller single axle trailer and would like to use these quick disconnects rather than a $300 brake actuator which is more than the entire cost of constructing the trailer myself as I already have most everything necessary. Besides, electric brakes are less reliable and cost more than the hydraulic brakes will cost me.

My question: Do any of you have experience with these quick disconnects? Do these things actually work without leaking or getting air in the lines?

 

[bosco659]

I spent 17 years in a business that built equipment that was mounted onto trailers. 95% of the units we built had brakes. I agree that trailer brakes are a good thing. In our province, brakes on single axle trailers are not mandatory. However there’s a silly rule that states without brakes, the tow vehicle must have sufficient braking ability to stop the tow vehicle and trailer safely. I say it’s a silly rule because how do you measure that. Of course you need to have sufficient brakes to safely tow the combined load.

Most units built had electric brakes. Properly adjusted and serviced they worked well. You can also apply electric brakes with the controller without applying the tow vehicles brakes. Hydraulic brakes were good too but had some quirks like limiting your ability to back up with a heavy load up an incline, where the brakes would lock up ( this could be avoided with the install of “free backing plates” but not every trailer has those. The other issue with brakes in our province is, if the trailer you plan to tow has brakes, they must be hooked up and be functional, this presents a challenge for occasional trailer towing. Besides pick up trucks, few vehicles are factory equipped with an electric brake controller. That means if you plan to borrow a trailer with electric brakes and arent wired for electric brakes, it’s illegal to tow that unit. Enforcement is difficult but lately there have been many safety blitzes that could catch you in violation. With hydraulic brakes, if the hitch fits you're ready to go.

Regarding your question about the disconnects, I’d be concerned about entrapped air. Although it would be a small amount, repeated reconnection could in theory, add enough air to affect braking performance. Such disconnects would be better used in other hydraulic applications where the air could self bleed through the hydraulic system. Sorry for my long winded opinion!

 

[ReycleBill]

Regarding your question about the disconnects, I’d be concerned about entrapped air. Although it would be a small amount, repeated reconnection could in theory, add enough air to affect braking performance. Such disconnects would be better used in other hydraulic applications where the air could self bleed through the hydraulic system. Sorry for my long winded opinion!

One of my concerns as well. PS. the wind is fine.

 

[mike in idaho]

Teeing into the rear brakes is gonna require more volume of fluid movement in the back half of the system. Likely that will cut down the braking power of the pickup and upset the balance, front and rear. Also, every time you push the pedal, the brake warning light will be staring you in the face.

 

[Kevin Werner]

I might be a luddite here. Proven trailer brake systems are widely available. Why would you not chose the best available conventional system? Much respect to 3,000,000 accident free miles, I can't go 5,000 without scraping a garage door.

 

[ReycleBill]

I might be a luddite here. Proven trailer brake systems are widely available. Why would you not chose the best available conventional system? Much respect to 3,000,000 accident free miles, I can't go 5,000 without scraping a garage door.

$300 vs $5

 

[ReycleBill]

Teeing into the rear brakes is gonna require more volume of fluid movement in the back half of the system. Likely that will cut down the braking power of the pickup and upset the balance, front and rear. Also, every time you push the pedal, the brake warning light will be staring you in the face.

I suspected that might be an issue though I suspect air in the lines and leakage might be bigger concerns.

 

[bosco659]

Oops I missed the part about teeing into the truck’s braking system. I would never do that. Best to spend the money on an actuator for the trailer or would use electric.

 

[Kevin Werner]

$300 vs $5

$5 plus plumbing plus a perportioning valve plus wondering whether you adjusted said valve for the load. ???
If you have the skills, the time to collect data etc, go for it. People all over the country haul boats, horses, motorcycles and campers/RVs without incident.

 

[Kevin Werner]

I am sorry for presenting the "Debbie Downer" side. You need to make your own decisions. I decided to ride again before my eyesight fails, a decision. I run atvs on questionable ice, my decision. I have climbed aboard some questionable sailboats for some exciting races, my decision. I respect your need to explore the best braking.

 

[59Tebo]

Bill,
I'm afraid I haven't seen quick disconnects like those, but I have seen disconnects on construction equipment (backhoes and such) that work pretty well. As for the hydraulic brakes, I don't anything about them either, but agree with bosco659, about electric brakes. I tow a travel trailer (28 footer), with a dry weight of ~7,000+ lbs. (GVWR is flirting with overloading my truck), fitted with electric brakes (and a break-away switch). My truck came with a variable brake controller (these can be retrofitted to vehicles without...). No issues whatsoever. Any of the larger RV dealers will have the parts to convert both your truck and trailer to electric brakes, without costing you a kidney. Look into it. I hope it leads you to fewer headaches.

 

[bosco659]

Most trucks and full sized SUV’s are pre wired for electric brakes. You just need to plug in and mount a controller under dash. Probably a $75 install.

Edit: newer trucks and SUV’s

 

[ReycleBill]

Most trucks and full sized SUV’s are pre wired for electric brakes. You just need to plug in and mount a controller under dash. Probably a $75 install.

My 1978 Dodge D150 did not come prewired for electric brakes. Nor did it come prewired for trailer taillights and turn signals. How do I know this to be true? I just recently completed the job of replacing the entire factory wiring harness.

 

[ReycleBill]

$5 plus plumbing plus a perportioning valve plus wondering whether you adjusted said valve for the load. ???

All things I've done before.

 

[ReycleBill]

You can also apply electric brakes with the controller without applying the tow vehicles brakes.

The #1 cause for trailer jackknives.

 

[bosco659]

The #1 cause for trailer jackknives.

I should have elaborated. This is a test imposed by the MTO (Ministry of Transportation Ontario) to check if trailer brakes are functional. In an automatic vehicle, the brake controller is energized manually, the tow vehicle put in drive and foot off of the brake pedal. The trailer brakes are to hold and prevent forward movement if functioning properly. Hydraulic brakes can’t be tested this way though. The MTO made up these tests, so if anyone doesnt agree with them, get mad at the MTO. Lol.

 

[ReycleBill]

I should have elaborated. This is a test imposed by the MTO (Ministry of Transportation Ontario) to check if trailer brakes are functional. In an automatic vehicle, the brake controller is energized manually, the tow vehicle put in drive and foot off of the brake pedal. The trailer brakes are to hold and prevent forward movement if functioning properly. Hydraulic brakes can’t be tested this way though. The MTO made up these tests, so if anyone doesnt agree with them, get mad at the MTO. Lol.

Here in the USA trailer brakes are to be checked the same way, as mandated by our DOT (Department of Transportation) but heavy trucks equipped with air brakes also have the red "emergency" knob which locks only the trailer brakes. Most class 8 trucks also have a trolly brake which works only the trailer brakes. That is what came to mind.

Many companies remove the trolly valve to prevent jackknives.

I guess I'll be buying or building another hydraulic actuator as I already have everything else I need to use it.

 

[ReycleBill]

I am sorry for presenting the "Debbie Downer" side. You need to make your own decisions. I decided to ride again before my eyesight fails, a decision. I run atvs on questionable ice, my decision. I have climbed aboard some questionable sailboats for some exciting races, my decision. I respect your need to explore the best braking.

When I can no longer ride I'll be checking out.