Transmission?’s

vansmetal

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I circled in red were the gear has a smashed(I’m sure there’s a better word) spot and wanted to know if just filing it would be ok? Also, I can only find where there is one shim on inside next to bearing but I have another shim on the outside of bearing as well…is this ok?
 

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It is not an exact science but I would look for a replacement wheel.
There is a risk for Clonking shifting -- And wear again.
I Bought one gearbox for $ 100 a few years ago.
The one wheel say 30 -- 40 max
How does it look at second and first gear cog wheels
 
I would say all is good, but I’m not sure about the terminology of a gear cog wheel…from what I could find is that a cog wheel is another term for gear
 

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My first language is not English so I may use the wrong word.
Sometimes there can be marks on the gear flanks where the wheels contact.
But not so much on these bikes 50 hp and solidly built.
Cant se anything on the pictures.
Feel for play against the axle .. But my guess is OK

Except that inside the red circle someone else perhaps chime in perhaps JPdevol
 
My first language is not English so I may use the wrong word.
Sometimes there can be marks on the gear flanks where the wheels contact.
But not so much on these bikes 50 hp and solidly built.
Cant se anything on the pictures.
Feel for play against the axle .. But my guess is OK

Except that inside the red circle someone else perhaps chime in perhaps JPdevol
Oh, ok I understand. The play seems really good. Thanks
 
Drag me into will ya......:D

The gears circled above - best I can tell in pic - are 3rd & 4th mainshaft. I think the ridge on the dog of 4th looks ok and you can smooth some with a file if desired. Those two are undercut (dovetailed) so they actually pull together under load (3rd drives 4th). It's more common to have an issue with the dogs on the other side of 3rd driving into 5th (those look ok in the pic too). This appears to be a later model trans, but I've attached a Bulletin from '71 that describes checking and shiming sideplay on the freewheeling gears and the shafts (still applies).
AAC8736A-6563-42CF-A7B4-C35CE79FEB78.jpg
 

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These were the first gear cogs in my '76. I didn't discover the problem until I went through the carbs and wiring in order to ride it the first time. 1st gear kept "skipping," and I then knew a transmission repair was in order. I have spare engines around, so I just swapped in some good parts, including a good 1st gear shift fork; you can see in the pic the fork was damaged, but it's a chicken-and-egg dilemma. Did the fork wear and cause the gears to jump, or did the jumping gears damage the fork? I also installed the taller ratio 5th gear while I had it apart.

You can see someone was in there before me with a die grinder and epically failed at "repairing" the damage. He also had the clutch washers in the wrong order, used way too much sealer for the cases, and forgot to put the spacer in the starter drive on the left side of the engine. It kept acting like the bendix spring was weak, but I was watching it and caught the fact that none of the gears on the right side were moving and the starter motor was spinning happily away. The last pic is the missing spacer and spring washer from my donor engine ready to install, but yeah, this was the spacer that was missing. If the "mechanic" who made this mess was there, I would have choked him.
 

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Figured out why I had 2 shims next to transmission bearing when diagram was calling for one…….in photo(I can’t remember the names of the separate trans) but the red arrows point to the bearings that where switched around and 2 shims ended up on each side of one bearing, leaving the other bearing without a shim..…it’s a basket case with minimum assembled…so I’m trying to take my time but sometimes I don’t always look ahead to see if there are some mistakes staring at me until I get to it…thus the reason for some questions I could of answered on my own…anyways…thanks for the continual help!!!!!
 

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Dont forget to spin the bearings listening for rattle . and check play
If I recall right there was a little wear inside the shift forks
So it looks as it has been running some miles
 
Dont forget to spin the bearings listening for rattle . and check play
If I recall right there was a little wear inside the shift forks
So it looks as it has been running some miles
The little bit of wear that was there, I was able to get with some needle nose pliers and now it looks new…I almost wonder if it was like that from machining and a little bit of a booger was left behind bc it came off really easy.
 
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