Trouble with head light Pamco with Battery Eliminator Capacitor

[John Krizan]

Yes, that extra green wire is a puzzle??? The PO was also using all 20 amp and 30 amp fuses, which shows he didn't know what he was doing. Too many people wiring these bikes without a proper knowledge of electrical circuits!

Yeah he has the green wire to ground and the red to the fuse block. ??

 

[John Krizan]

Just want to say thanks for helping helping me out guys. Lots of good information.

 

[John Krizan]

You'll have to excuse me i'm a bit dumb when it comes to electrics ............but...........I fail to see why the headlight bulb keeps blowing when there are fuses for a headlight..........There has been no mention of a headlight fuse blowing...................

Testing the regulator/rectifier will detect a faulty reg/rect...........Although this may be a problem and a replacement will fix that ...........but...........is this the real problem................

All wiring should be continuity tested and a diagram made up for your loom.

Yeah have not blown any fuses.

 

[John Krizan]

So.......I have it all wired up right new reg/rec double checked everything and it wont start. It will fire up for a split second and shut down. But when I turn on my light I have I think i have the same problem I had before, it wont fire at all. So I still think I still have the same problem as before but with out it starting. i have exhausted any and everything I know.

 

[fredintoon]

So.......I have it all wired up right new reg/rec double checked everything and it wont start. It will fire up for a split second and shut down. But when I turn on my light I have I think i have the same problem I had before, it wont fire at all. So I still think I still have the same problem as before but with out it starting. i have exhausted any and everything I know.

Hi John,
if it were mine I'd rip all the aftermarket electrics outa there and put stock parts back in.
But what can you do with what you have?
I'd suggest that you connect a battery to your system in place of the capacitor, disconnect the PMA
and troubleshoot the ignition system to see if it still works on 12 Volts after trying to swallow 22 Volts.
After you know that the ignition works you can try to troubleshoot the charging system.
And yeah, take that capacitor to the river and use it to test your throwing arm.
Batteries are better.

 

[Bob Kelly III]

Check and see if your getting spark befire you try to start it.... no spark and it's not going to run.....
then start hunting down why no spark.... it's a proccess of elimination.
right now you have soo many veriables in the mix that it's anyones guess as to WHY.... you have to start eliminating possable causes.
.....
my 2 coppers !
....Bob......

 

[650Skull]

Does that new Reg/Rect have 5 or 6 wires???

 

[John Krizan]

Does that new Reg/Rect have 5 or 6 wires???

5 wire.

 

[John Krizan]

Check and see if your getting spark befire you try to start it.... no spark and it's not going to run.....
then start hunting down why no spark.... it's a proccess of elimination.
right now you have soo many veriables in the mix that it's anyones guess as to WHY.... you have to start eliminating possable causes.
.....
my 2 coppers !
....Bob......

There is spark.

 

[John Krizan]

Hi John,
if it were mine I'd rip all the aftermarket electrics outa there and put stock parts back in.
But what can you do with what you have?
I'd suggest that you connect a battery to your system in place of the capacitor, disconnect the PMA
and troubleshoot the ignition system to see if it still works on 12 Volts after trying to swallow 22 Volts.
After you know that the ignition works you can try to troubleshoot the charging system.
And yeah, take that capacitor to the river and use it to test your throwing arm.
Batteries are better.

Okay I'll try a battery. What gauge wire should I run off the battery?

 

[figure8]

Okay I'll try a battery. What gauge wire should I run off the battery?

14g will work, I get what you're going for on the minimalist side of things. Consider this battery in the link, very compact.
http://www.650central.com/

 

[John Krizan]

14g will work, I get what you're going for on the minimalist side of things. Consider this battery in the link, very compact.
http://www.650central.com/

Not so much wanting to be a minimalist, I just don't have the means right now. I would have to grind out the box he has in there right now and find a place for reg/rec fuse block and all the other stuff packed in there right now. I do want to go battery just not right now. Want to get it going for a cool ride going on this weekend.But hooking a battery up I think will help find the problem. I'm not seeing a battery in the link.

 

[figure8]

Not so much wanting to be a minimalist, I just don't have the means right now. I would have to grind out the box he has in there right now and find a place for reg/rec fuse block and all the other stuff packed in there right now. I do want to go battery just not right now. Want to get it going for a cool ride going on this weekend.But hooking a battery up I think will help find the problem. I'm not seeing a battery in the link.

Go to 650central.com
Click on electrical and scroll down a bit, your looking for this....

 

[fredintoon]

Not so much wanting to be a minimalist, I just don't have the means right now. I would have to grind out the box he has in there right now and find a place for reg/rec fuse block and all the other stuff packed in there right now. I do want to go battery just not right now. Want to get it going for a cool ride going on this weekend.But hooking a battery up I think will help find the problem. I'm not seeing a battery in the link.

Hi John,
even if your ignition works with a battery (and I wasn't thinking of riding, just finding out if your ignition is working)
I wouldn't recommend you riding that bike anywhere until you've fixed that 22 Volt over-charge.

 

[John Krizan]

Hi John,
even if your ignition works with a battery (and I wasn't thinking of riding, just finding out if your ignition is working)
I wouldn't recommend you riding that bike anywhere until you've fixed that 22 Volt over-charge.

For sure. No I'm not going any where till everything is up to par.

 

[John Krizan]

Go to 650central.com
Click on electrical and scroll down a bit, your looking for this....

Thanks.

 

[John Krizan]

Okay. So I replaced the capacitor with a battery for testing. I now have 12 volts to the headlight, taillight both can be on and work just fine. I checked the voltage on everything and I have 12 volts. I double checked my wiring and everything looks right. The key and kill switch all work as they should. But now I have no spark. I did yesterday but would only run for a second then shut down and before I did the wiring job it ran but it was pushing 22-30 volts to the headlight. ??

 

[figure8]

Okay. So I replaced the capacitor with a battery for testing. I now have 12 volts to the headlight, taillight both can be on and work just fine. I checked the voltage on everything and I have 12 volts. I double checked my wiring and everything looks right. The key and kill switch all work as they should. But now I have no spark. I did yesterday but would only run for a second then shut down and before I did the wiring job it ran but it was pushing 22-30 volts to the headlight. ??

You're gonna chase your tail on this so keep it simple. Isolate the ignition and wire that up alone. If you get spark and it fires, then start adding components one at a time. Process of elimination.

 

[John Krizan]

Okay

 

[John Krizan]

Update. So I Isolated the ignition with the battery hooked up no spark would not fire. So then I hooked back up the capacitor after a few kicks she fired right up. Then checked my voltages to the head light 30-40 volts. It was not the reg/rect.