I have my carbs off putting on some jbm manifolds. Carbs are fine not leaking but I wanted to put the stainless hardware on.I have all the sizes from seaching threads, but wonder is it OK to take old hardware off one at a time to replace without causing leaks? Don't plan on going into my carbs yet so I have no gaskets or other stuff yet. Should I wait till I service carbs to change them out.
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upgrading carb hardware
- Thread starter payaso13
- Start date
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- Tags
- carburetors
I think one at a time will be safe. Watch lengths, some of the float screws can create problems if they are too long. IMHO You must have a hand impact to do this project. You may not need it, but stripped phillips heads are no fun.
The four #3 head holding the carbs to the bar are bitchin tight every time.
The four #3 head holding the carbs to the bar are bitchin tight every time.
I know what you mean about hand impact tool from reading other threads and got thread sizes from 5twins replying to someone else's thread. M5x16 carb top w/bracket M5x14 carb top no bracket and M4x12 for float bowls and can be used for choke body and lever
tracer1966
Kaptain Kluge
When I didn't have a hand impact tool, I was able to make due by cutting slots into the already mutilated screw heads. I used a hacksaw or dremel cutting wheel, whichever fit best.
Good luck.
Good luck.
If I had the carbs off and was replacing screws I would HAVE to open the float bowls. Seriously I would not be able to stop myself.
Guy brought me an 82 Honda 250 carb last night, this spring starting fluid was no longer enough, wouldn't run even after a bunch of attempts. It took me at least 1/2 hour to get the float valve unstuck from the body, copious carb cleaner and 10 minutes with the hair dryer softening up the varnish. and it was nip and tuck, remove vs wreck it. COMPLETELY varnished shut. every jet was plugged or crapped up. Will hear on Monday how it works now.
Guy brought me an 82 Honda 250 carb last night, this spring starting fluid was no longer enough, wouldn't run even after a bunch of attempts. It took me at least 1/2 hour to get the float valve unstuck from the body, copious carb cleaner and 10 minutes with the hair dryer softening up the varnish. and it was nip and tuck, remove vs wreck it. COMPLETELY varnished shut. every jet was plugged or crapped up. Will hear on Monday how it works now.
On the four big screws that hold the carbs to the angle iron bar, I would leave them be. The screws that hold the float bowls on, and the top covers I would change. Allen heads are good.
Leo
Leo
deadchef
xsbobblehead
as leo says, allen heads are good. however, be careful when tightening those suckers down. you can easily strip threads in the carb body. (or so i hear 
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)
Yes, use split ring type lock washers and basically stop tightening the screws when the washers are squeezed flat. The sizes I gave are for use with lock washers, they would be too long without them. And if you're using stainless screws, be sure to anti-seize them. They'll gall and strip the aluminum if you don't.
Haven't got the hardware on and thinking I'm gonna just wait till I actually go thru my carbs...like I said earlier carbs are fine no leaks nothing...so don't wanna risk breaking a good gasket seal on carb just to dress it up
