URGENT HELP to source electric ignition for rephased motor

Mannyroad

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Hi Guys,

Well, 2024 is turning out to be a bitch of a year so far. Been scammed twice at over £200 a pop, various motorcycle related disappointments and now something MUCH more worrying.

OK, well, I own an XS650 street scrambler, with 750 big bore, 270 rephased motor, running a Probe Engineering electronic ignition. The 270 motor was built by the now deceased Daryl Hutcheon, in Australia, and has done a total of approx. 2500 miles since being rebuilt/rephased. Performance was below par, and on inspection it turned out that the cam had been ground wrong (way too much overlap). Consequently I had to have a new cam ground here in the UK. Its all back together again and today I stuck it on my friends rolling road and tried to get it to fire up. After many failed attempts, a re-check of the ignition timing with the light gun showed the timing had been set to the wrong crank rotor TDC mark. This was put right and hey presto the bike fired up instantly. After giving it a good warm up and adjusting the tickover the motor seemed to be close to achieving a reasonably tickover but didn't quite feel right, like too much vibration at the bars. Fired it up again, double checked the ignition timing and it appears that the Probe system wasn't advancing the ignition as it should. I was running it at about 4000 rpm when suddenly the motor instantly revved to 6000rpm (so quickly the motor torque forced the rear suspension down sharply). It sounded and ran, for those few seconds, absolutely AWESOME! Truly amazing feel. Anyway I reduced the throttle back to 4000rpm upon which the motor ran a little eratically then just simply cut. Fired it up again, ran it up to 4000rpm (felt eratic like it was on one cylinder) and then it simply cut again. At this point it failed to fire up again after several attempts. So, I decided to re-check the static timing.

With the Probe there's a red LED light on the control unit that goes goes bright red during the dwell period then goes dark at the 'firing event', i.e at 36 degrees (fully advanced)BTDC. This is how the Probe system works and has to be set up. However, NOW the red light won't light up at all, when the crank is rotated with a wrench. Just nothing. When you turn the ignition on and off, and when you flick the kill switch off and on, there is an instantaneous faint, momentary red glow from the LED, but no constant bright light when there should be. The ONLY way I can get the LED to display bright red is when I unplug the 8 pin timing sensor connector from the control unit. Plug it back in and the LED light goes out.

My BIG BIG fear is that either the control unit or the timing sensor has failed. There are no 'trouble shooting' instructions in the Instruction Manual, so no way of testing if its failed or not. This is a huge problem because Probe Engineering no longer exist and I know of no other supplier for a true 270 ignition system for the XS. I've tried calling and emailing Michael Whitebrook (Probe Engineering) but this has been fruitless. As the designer and builder of the electronic ignition system is no longer contactable and the motor builder is deceased, I'm beginning to think I may be 'up the creek without a paddle'. Whilst I appreciate sh*t happens, I'm finding hard to accept that a piece of equipment of such engineering quality as the Probe system, would fail only 2500 miles from new.

So, my question is: does ANYONE have ANY idea if there is still a source ANYWHERE for a 270 Probe set up that I could acquire (control unit and sensor) or does anyone know of a 270 degree system that is available for the XS, be it cam driven or crank driven? The motor currently has a Sparx PMA fitted. If my existing ignition system has failed and if I can't source another system to suit a 270 XS, then I end up with a bike that is little more than a VERY expensive ornament.

ANY INFORMATION TO HELP ME CONTACT THE PROBE GUY, OR POINT ME TO ANOTHER VIABLE OPTION WILL BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.
 
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No knowledge of the Probe
It sounds as the Sensor is not working .. Maybe a short inside giving signal that it is Firing time
First would be to clean the 8 pin connectors and apply Some crease .Because often a problem is in these connectors
Ensure not to much play wiggeling
I Can not realise why there needs to be 8 pins so a picture and any information would help
Is it closed or any chance open the sensor to look in later on.
That sensor do you know what type of sensor ? Magnetic ?

FURTHER What is absolutely essential is that the Power supply to the electronic ignition is 110 % correct At box and sensor
That means a fresh battery and good charging
Or strange thing can happen .blinking like a Pin Ball Game Difficult starting and whatever
Please come back after servicing the 8 pin connector and battery status check. Pictures or documentation helps
 
No knowledge of the Probe
It sounds as the Sensor is not working .. Maybe a short inside giving signal that it is Firing time
First would be to clean the 8 pin connectors and apply Some crease .Because often a problem is in these connectors
Ensure not to much play wiggeling
I Can not realise why there needs to be 8 pins so a picture and any information would help
Is it closed or any chance open the sensor to look in later on.
That sensor do you know what type of sensor ? Magnetic ?

FURTHER What is absolutely essential is that the Power supply to the electronic ignition is 110 % correct At box and sensor
That means a fresh battery and good charging
Or strange thing can happen .blinking like a Pin Ball Game Difficult starting and whatever
Please come back after servicing the 8 pin connector and battery status check. Pictures or documentation helps
Cheers for your reply. The battery is a new lipo, fully charged. PMA alternator tested and working fine. 8 pin connector looks very clean too. It's odd that when you pull the 8 pin connector (timing sensor wiring) the red light in the unit, used to static time, comes on bright but goes out and stays out as soon as you plug it back in. And there appear to be no breakages between the 8 pin connector and the timing sensor on the motor. So a bit unsure what's happened.
Talking to Pipes N Stuff to see if their 277 system can be built as a 270 system. Alternatively I'm back to having to consider using the Newtronics contactless points with a mechanical advance and retard.
 
OK if the battery and the Connector is tested
Assuming the red coming on and off regardless of the crank position Plugging in and out the 8 pin connector
I would assume this being a standard pickup from somewhere
I Dont at this point in time know why there are 8 pins 2 for each firing point and 2 for Power supply and Ground
making it 6 2 more ? Coil perhaps

Any more system info available ? Pictures ? Schematic ?

And a picture off the connector and pickup would help
Making it possible take some measurements .

At this point I would Measure Supply Voltage at Ignition Box Plugging in and out the 8 Pin connector se if it drops
 
OK I have been googling there are Installing Instructions that explains the system ON line but the System ID name or Number is needed

Like that ( its the wrong one )

PROBE ENGINEERING, INC.
Installation Instructions, Model FS-01E
Version 7.2
 
The Probe unit fitted is the correct one for the 270 motor. The Newtronics (formerly Pirhana I believe) is a contactless points system that requires the original mechanical advance and retard unit. I was hoping to find a plug and play system to replace the Probe but there isn't one it seems, having scoured the net. Not sure if there are any NOS around on shelves somewhere but it's a long shot. But now that the guy in Aus isn't doing them anymore, surely there must be the odd 270 Probe unit sat on a shelf somewhere. Another thought would be whether or not the main control unit is the same for the Probe 277 setup and that the only thing that differs is the pickup unit on the cam. Who knows? Not me for sure.
 
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Mark Whitebook was the man at Probe engineering (USA) I dealt with. A long shot but he may have some spares. I have long since lost his email address.
I bought 2 probe ignitions for 277 set ups. The plugs were different on the 2 ignitions so parts were not interchangeable.
 
Mark Whitebook was the man at Probe engineering (USA) I dealt with. A long shot but he may have some spares. I have long since lost his email address.
I bought 2 probe ignitions for 277 set ups. The plugs were different on the 2 ignitions so parts were not interchangeable.
Pity. If only I could make contact. I bet he has a control unit or full set knocking about.
Still.might be a Newtronics contactless points option yet, but don't want to go down the mechanical advance route just jet.
 
Hi all,
Though I'd update you on my issue regarding the knackered Probe ignition for a rephased 270 big bore motor. Couldn't get any response from Mark Whitebook, so Probe system went in the bin. Had a discussion with Ant Benyon, at Pipes & Stuff, who supplies 277 TCI systems for the XS. He agreed to make me a one-off 270 degree TCI and its now fitted and works fantastic. Set full advance at 36 as suggested by Smedspeed and Pipes & Stuff and it's spot on. And the new 3.5 'hot street cam' has totally transformed the motor. Ripping with power now, so much so I now need to fix clutch slip. Currently have a 6 friction plate set up, using an EBC Race Pack (which comes with an extra steel and friction). Going to get the basket and pressure plate machined to allow me to fit the extra plates, giving me a seven friction set up. Hope this works. Currently running 20w50 mineral oil but its been suggested I use Mobil 1 10w60. Jury's out on the oil choice.
Let you know how I get on once the clutch has been modified. Desperately need to get this bike back on the road proper. Don't want to lose another season.
 
Good to here you bike is running.Two things to consider.
Oil: I was told by a cam grinder to only use mineral oil on his built up and reground cams.
Clutch: have you considered an eight plate clutch. The alto plates are thinner and on early clutches require no machining. I use them and they are great. Hieden Tuning was selling a clutch upgrade kit with 8 plates, or you could buy from this forums gggGary if he still has them.
 
I did consider the Heiden 8 plate set which, as you say are thinner. I was told by a reputable UK source in the XS circles, that Heiden's thin plates "are crap, they warp, don't buy them". So I decided to go down the machining route and use the standard thickness EBC plates.
 
Ok. That is the complete opposite of my experience. I run them in classic road race sidecars they get abused every start. I regard them as a install adjust and clutch slip gone. I have used them in my latest build (880cc) without hesitation.
 
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