vm34 cable setup

[scharny61]

Does anybody have any tips to setting up the cable to the Mikuni vm34's. It came with the single cable and junction box. Just need to know;

1. best way to solder the small tube onto the cable on the carby end eg just solder or do you crush the tube a bit? Or do both?

2.Best location to put the junction box? Under the frame, on the side of the frame.

The cable came with some vague instructions (thealphamoto on ebay) but not the clearest info. Any experience someone could pass on would be good. I don't want to learn by my mistakes.
Thanks in advance.

 

[tonytorque]

Does anybody have any tips to setting up the cable to the Mikuni vm34's. It came with the single cable and junction box. Just need to know;

1. best way to solder the small tube onto the cable on the carby end eg just solder or do you crush the tube a bit? Or do both?

2.Best location to put the junction box? Under the frame, on the side of the frame.

The cable came with some vague instructions (thealphamoto on ebay) but not the clearest info. Any experience someone could pass on would be good. I don't want to learn by my mistakes.
Thanks in advance.

Best thing to do is buy a new cable two in one( I did) ,oil it grease it, mount en ride like hell!!

P.s ( you dont want the small tube getting lose and end up in youre engine)

 

[osteoderm]

The cable barrel end for the carb throttle slide should have at least one slightly countersunk end., ie., flared open a little bit larger than the diameter of the cable. This end goes towards the end of the cable.

Once you have your cable length set, pass the cable through the barrel end, leaving the cable a little long. I like to lightly crimp the barrel on the non-flared end just enough to keep it from sliding around, off your mark. Trim the protruding cable end to 1/2" or so, unravel the strands, and flare them out.
The real pro way to solder a cable end is to dunk the whole end into a pot of molten solder and tap off the excess while still liquid. Personally, I think it's okay to flux, heat, and solder directly into the flared end of the barrel. The solder needs to flow-out and adhere well enough that it can't drop into the carb, but it doesn't need to directly bond the cable to the barrel. The solder keeps the unraveled/flared cable strands from being pulled through the barrel end, forming a mechanical interlock that is much stronger than solder alone. Of course, trim the exposed cable end flush after the solder is cold.

If you have any doubts about the cable length, cut a little long. If you haven't crimped too tight, you'll be able to melt the solder and slide the barrel end a little further along the cable, then re-solder.

I mounted my cable splitter right on top of the frame, inside the tank tunnel. I don't suppose there's any right or wrong place to mount it, as long as the cables sweep in/out of the splitter cleanly without kinking or binding anywhere.

 

[tonytorque]

The cable barrel end for the carb throttle slide should have at least one slightly countersunk end., ie., flared open a little bit larger than the diameter of the cable. This end goes towards the end of the cable.

Once you have your cable length set, pass the cable through the barrel end, leaving the cable a little long. I like to lightly crimp the barrel on the non-flared end just enough to keep it from sliding around, off your mark. Trim the protruding cable end to 1/2" or so, unravel the strands, and flare them out.
The real pro way to solder a cable end is to dunk the whole end into a pot of molten solder and tap off the excess while still liquid. Personally, I think it's okay to flux, heat, and solder directly into the flared end of the barrel. The solder needs to flow-out and adhere well enough that it can't drop into the carb, but it doesn't need to directly bond the cable to the barrel. The solder keeps the unraveled/flared cable strands from being pulled through the barrel end, forming a mechanical interlock that is much stronger than solder alone. Of course, trim the exposed cable end flush after the solder is cold.

If you have any doubts about the cable length, cut a little long. If you haven't crimped too tight, you'll be able to melt the solder and slide the barrel end a little further along the cable, then re-solder.

I mounted my cable splitter right on top of the frame, inside the tank tunnel. I don't suppose there's any right or wrong place to mount it, as long as the cables sweep in/out of the splitter cleanly without kinking or binding anywhere.

Like I said; you better buy a a cable with nipples on it.

 

[osteoderm]

Like I said; you better buy a a cable with nipples on it.

There is no stock application of a 2-into-1 cable on the XS650 that I know of, and neither is the VM34 stock to the bike, so any such installation becomes a custom affair. If there is a pre-made pre-cut pre-soldered 2-into-1 cable set for installing VM carbs on a XS650, I'm unfamiliar with it.

Of all the kits I've seen, you end up having to solder barrels onto one or both ends of each of the three cables.

Making your own cables is not that difficult, and gives you options that aren't found in pre-made sets. For instance, I used teflon-lined housings and teflon-coated cables sourced from the high-end bicycle brake aftermarket (identical cable/housing sizes). Treated with graphite "dry" lube, my 2-into-1 throttle cable assembly has smoother/lighter action, requires less maintenance, and cost me less.
Non-stock handlebar size/position, carb position/intake length, and splitter position are all easily accommodated by making your own cables from scratch, or at least by cutting a kit to suit and soldering on your own ends.

 

[scharny61]

Thanks guys, thats an easy to follow way of doing it. I'll give it a go. Feel confident now.

 

[tonytorque]

There is no stock application of a 2-into-1 cable on the XS650 that I know of, and neither is the VM34 stock to the bike, so any such installation becomes a custom affair. If there is a pre-made pre-cut pre-soldered 2-into-1 cable set for installing VM carbs on a XS650, I'm unfamiliar with it.

Of all the kits I've seen, you end up having to solder barrels onto one or both ends of each of the three cables.

Making your own cables is not that difficult, and gives you options that aren't found in pre-made sets. For instance, I used teflon-lined housings and teflon-coated cables sourced from the high-end bicycle brake aftermarket (identical cable/housing sizes). Treated with graphite "dry" lube, my 2-into-1 throttle cable assembly has smoother/lighter action, requires less maintenance, and cost me less.
Non-stock handlebar size/position, carb position/intake length, and splitter position are all easily accommodated by making your own cables from scratch, or at least by cutting a kit to suit and soldering on your own ends.

There is a vm stock cable in one piece, I bought one (heiden tuning)

 

[racerdave]

Do the 34mm Mik kits from 650 Central come with finished cables??

 

[RFLIVES]

Do the 34mm Mik kits from 650 Central come with finished cables??

YUP

VM34 Round Slide Throttle Cable

2-1 to fit stock throttles

Throttle Cable for stock throttle, -7" (Daytona or Euro)

#FCEN26-4200......$35.00

Throttle Cable for stock throttle (Pullbacks or Western) #FCEN26-4100......$35.00

 

[DeftQuiver]

Do the 34mm Mik kits from 650 Central come with finished cables??

Not to mention... Michael over at 650central is a badass. Unbelievably informative and willing to help.

Deft

 

[scharny61]

I ended up buying a cable from Mikes and it fits OK on my standard setup. Quality is good too, made in Japan!

 

[bills79bobber]

how do u set the idle on them im lost

 

[scharny61]

I'm no expert but the idle is set up on the Carbie using the idle adjustment screws, the cable is used to open the slides. The bike should idle OK without any throttle. The throttle is adjusted at the throttle end. Do you have a manual for the Carbies? If your bike won't idle, I'd check other things first like the timing, valve clearances and cam chain adjustment.