want an xs650

[marp68]

Hi

I already have another thread her, but continue here since the subject has changed...
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=32957#post32957

I don't own an xs650 yet, but I am looking for one... Used to ride a Ducati Monster before but sold it because I don't ride that often and don't like the high insurance costs. I'm also hooked on these older classic bikes. So a xs650 seemed like a natural choice.

There are not many xs650 around for sale in Sweden, but one or two during the year. Makes the price a bit higher...

Over the years they seemed to have changed a few things on the bike model. A somewhat delicate question, but which year would generally be better technically?

Right now I have two options, one from 1975 (447-) and one from 1976. The 1975 is almost original but in good running condition (2700 US dollar) and the 1976 has a dead starter and is repainted completely black, a bit cafied (3400 US dollar). As you see the prices are both quite high and one the cheaper is more original and everything works. Does anything makes it worth going for the 1976, the more expensive with a dead starter? Se below

And, does the road handling generally differ between the standard and the custom? Originally and generally speaking, of course. Once I tried a custom xs and I was not so inpressed... I assume the standard handles better since it has lower forks.

Thanks for a nice site and helful people

/Martin

 

[Crab_Cake]

I would go for the cheaper one. You can change/customize whatever to your liking. I am wicked jealous of the dual front disks on those bikes. Either one will outbrake any american 650.

 

[650Skull]

The one you say is the 75 has a 76 set of forks with the 74/75 Gauges and the 76 has the 76 forks and a set of 75 gauges. Maybe the European models were different ?????. The handling is better as the standards have a 19 front 18 rear wheel set up where as the Specials/custom have the 19 front 16 rear wheel set up. Specials better in a straight line, standards better for cornering.

the question you have to ask yourself is "will $700 saved on the purchase cover the cost of building the bike i want". In your other post you said you wanted to build a cafe style bike and the 76 is already there 3 parts and if the starter has not been removed then it could be a cheep or easy fix.

Check This out

 

[xjwmx]

Specials better in a straight line, standards better for cornering.

You let the secret out of the bag! When we come to a corner on our Specials we turn them off and call a tow truck.

 

[gggGary]

I have an 83 heritage special, it handles just fine now that I have brass swing arm bushings and tapered roller steering bushings in it. Your prices aren't way crazy, very good bikes of that vintage are bringing USD2000 plus here.

 

[marp68]

Thanks for the link. Makes everything clearer! Great!

So regarding handling, engine and electrical parts, there's no differencies? Better forks didn't came until the -77 model and both models have the bigger frame.

So what do i want to do with the bike....

As a first step make it slightly more café style. A set of clip on, a side mirror and a seat more like the one on the -76 image. The -75 image seat i think i should be able to modify myself. I however like the mufflers style on the -76. The mufflers on the -75 seems a bit to bulky for me. But maybe it's only on the images it looks that way. Would it be possible to raise the bit, to look more sporty? The -75 also comes with 2-1 muflers aside, but i tend to like to have two. I has to check up the prices for new set of mufflers.

The -75 is more complete and functioning, which always is nice when one is buying something. And the price is cheaper. 2700 US dollar was already a bit over my budget... On the -76 the seller managed to get the starter running, but without having it to engage the engine. So the fault seems to be internal, which could cost money and time. But there is always the kick start, wich i intend to use as much as i can.

However, i'm very inspired of all those stripped and cool xs one can find on the site. All depends on the money and intrest... Maybe one day...

/M

 

[Inked Monkey]

Hey marp68, I also rode a Ducati Monster for years until June 09 when I was hit and the bike totaled. So I too switched to an xs650. Personally, I feel the xs is an upgrade, different, but still better in some sorts.

 

[marp68]

Sorry to hear about the crash. Hope you yourself was allright.

I'm curious, in what way did you experience the xs better than the monster? There are a few years between them....

/M

 

[marp68]

I took the bus for 6,5 hours, bought the bike and drove it home 400 km. All in one day. Puhhh!

Many thanks to you who have answered my questions here and giving me advices, information etc.

It wasn't in the nice condition the owner said it to be, though, i.e. a smaller oil leakage from the cylinder foot. Don't know how difficult it is to change this gasket.

/Martin

 

[nj1639]

Well, you said you were going to get one and you did! Congratulations!

 

[kent_in_kc]

Welcome to the forum. You're in the right place. These guys get kinda cranky once in a while but they're all good people and they're all smarter than me!

 

[Inked Monkey]

Sorry to hear about the crash. Hope you yourself was allright.

I'm curious, in what way did you experience the xs better than the monster? There are a few years between them....

/M

All around more enjoyable for me. I really loved carving the corners in the Duc, but for just crusing, I like the xs better.

 

[650Skull]

marp68. could you tell me if there is an axel cap held on with 2 nuts on the bottom of the left fork

 

[marp68]

No cup. Why do you wonder?

M

 

[marp68]

I thought I bought one that was okej, but after gping in a bus for 6,5 hours, i didn't look enough, and rode it home. So I payed too much for what I got. And I wanted a bike that worked okej, so i could concentrate on driving and modifying it. Now I have to repair it, and I don't have anywhere to be and some stuff are difficult to do.

Today I've discovered following:

-more leaking from not only cylinder foot, but also head and between the two engine halves, also maybe under. Don't know since it is so greasy.
-Don't start. Battery empty. Does it not charging? Aliminium wheel and other al parts have white powder stuff on them. Could be "leaking" current, which empty the battery.
-Leaking floatbowls. But is also the tank tap leaking, since it seems to leak more than the volume of the float bowls and I have put the tap on Off.
-The forks may be from the custom model, since the seem long and are sticking up above the steering head a bit.
-Starter not working, but i already knew that.

/Martin feeling very low and angry with myself :-(

 

[PhatTony]

Try retorqueing the head. Sometimes it helps. I replaced the crappy rubber washers on the outside head studs with Brass ones from Mikesxs and retorqued the head and my oil leak stopped but no guarantees. Replacing the base gasket is not easy and requires you to remove the engine from the bike among other things.
I don't know what you mean by "Battery empty". If the battery has no acid in it then it will not take a charge and needs to be replaced. If you mean the battery has no charge then you will need to look into your charging system. Be sure you have a good battery or it will not start at all. Look up Curley's guide, it will help you diagnose your charging problem
There are several parts places to get carb and tap rebuild kits.

The forks on all models were all the same length special or standard. The previous owner probably wanted a lower ride so they slid the forks up in the steering head.

Hope I helped

I once bought a bike, rode it half way home and it quit. It's makes you angry until the bike is fixed and running good again

 

[gggGary]

I bought a bike sight unseen and drove it home 2000 miles once. But that was pretty lucky . I have done it many times with cars and trucks. Hope things look up for you and you find some easy fixes. The clutch rod seal and or output shaft seal can dump lots of oil and make it look like a bigger disaster than it is. The clutch rod seal is fairly easy tightening the sprocket nut if it's loose sometimes "fixes" the output shaft leak.

 

[marp68]

So, how come the custom is higher in front than the standard???

Should the oil pressure lamp be on when switchning ther ignition key?

What are the "rubber washers on the outside head studs". Should I change it bfore retorquing?

Thanks for listening on me moaning about it... ;-) And yes, hopefully i will fix it. The problem is that earlier i had my bike in the cycle parking area in the cellar, but the neighbours were complaining, so now i will probably not be able to have it there during the winter.

/Martin

 

[marp68]

I also noted now that the threads on the upper screws for the rear shockers are completely zero, and that it is impossible to tight it good. If i make new threads thay may be to small.

Any suggestions? Is the only way to weld new screws onto the frame?

M

 

[PhatTony]

In This Thread shows a diagram of the head bolt retorque sequence. On 5,6,7, and 8 Yamaha used a rubber coated washer to seal the outer head bolts. After 30 plus years the rubber goes bad. You can try retourqing the acorn nuts with the factory rubber washers in place to see if it helps. I've always just replaced them as soon as I got the bike home.
I have a standard and Special front end at home I will measure just to be sure. Possible difference might be the standard has lower handle bars and the special has taller pull back ones. It's a visual thing.

I don't have a funtional oil pressure light so I cannot give you a good answer on that one. I'd guess it's normal as my car's oil light will come on when I turn the ignition on but goes out once it's started.

I've never had to retap the threads on a shock mount but I would assume you could tap it smaller and be ok but this is your bike and your life so you will have to make that call.