Well this is !%#ing great...

[dpawl31]

How long do I have... can I ride it all summer?
I will replace the sump filter soon, haven't looked at it yet but obviously if the bits are getting to the small filter, it went through a hole in the sump...

Can I ride for the summer, and tear down and rebuild in the winter?
Or will I lose the motor?

I really want to just adjust the cam, valves, and ride it... but not if I won't make it through the summer. Figures, this week is bike week in Laconia... was going to go next Saturday.

FML

 

[txpowdercoater]

ruh-roh, I'd probably venture to say if I saw that, I wouldnt start it again.

 

[Luke4554]

agreed... quit while your ahead.. or not ahead, whatever your opinion on the matter but driving it will only compromise other internal parts that may have not been affected yet.

Luke

 

[pamcopete]

dpawl...,

Well, do you have an electric start? Is it working or is it making grinding noises? If the latter, then that's the debris from the #4 gear being chewed up, so kick it for the rest of the summer.

In any event, the other internal parts have not been affected because the junk was caught by the screen.

It could be that the sump screen just recently developed a hole and thats all the junk that was just waiting to get past the sump screen.

So, if it is the #4 gear, change the sump screen, kick the bike and ride for the summer.

 

[dpawl31]

Sorry it's a tough pic with the lighting- I am positive it's plastic. Not metal.

Thus - cam chain guide.

That's the only plastic in there correct?

 

[650sf]

That's plastic so it's the timing chain guide.

 

[pyrocentric]

I rode mine all last summer like that. The chain guide is an aluminum slipper with rubber over it, so you'll see aluminum shavings next. Mine made a horrible ticking though.

 

[inxs]

- on the other hand, you have a week left...fitting a new guide and chain will take you a day or less, if you pull the wrist pins and dont remove the pistons you wont have to hone...dont forget the filters

 

[pyrocentric]

Yeah, you could pull the motor and rebuild the top end in a saturday. The tensioner was fine on mine, only the front slipper was worn.

 

[gentlemanjim]

I'd add some engine flush crank it over do not start, drain, pull the sump, replace the filter screen, add fresh oil, adjust the cam tensioner and fire it up. Take a short ride 5 miles or so and pull the filter and have a look see. If it needs cleaning again do it and change the oil agian and clean the sump until all the debris is gone. Ride it locally to achieve a level of comfort that it is gonna be relaible. And take your trip. You can always do the rebuild or repair work in the off season.

 

[XSLeo]

You can change the front guide by just pulling the head off. You don't have to lift the jugs. If done right the base gasket won't be disturbed enough to cause a leak.
Once you get the engine out of the bike. Remove the rocker box, remove the cam chain adjuster, slip the bearing off the cam, slide the cam out from under the chain. Tie a string to the chain so it won't drop inside.
Using wooden wedges between the head and jugs to get the head off. Carpenter shims work good.
Now you can just unbolt the front cam guide and replace.
Reassemble the engine with a new head gasket, good to go.
I think it will last this season, just watch the oil and filters for metal.
The sump filter can be fixed. I cut a patch out of a soup can, cleaned the filter well, "glued" the patch over the hole in the filter with JB Weld. Added more JB Weld to ensure a good seal around the patch.

 

[dpawl31]

Thanks Leo, good to know it's not that hard to fix.
I have a friend that can remove, tear down and rebuild his XJ (much more complicated motor) in one weekend. He'll be helping so it should go easy. Anything I should do for cheap $$ while I am in there?

On a side note, we finally changed the oil (hah... as you can see) and side filter. Oil was FILTHY. I feel like I got a good 10-15% more power now, all across the band. Smoother, less shaky, and my god does the clutch work flawless now!

What is the proper compression for this motor? I have an autozone gauge and it showed 165 psi, but it may not have been done right. Also haven't adjusted valves yet, and I know at least the left intake is so tight I can't get a feeler in there. Need to reclean the carbs again (ran out of cleaner @ midnight, nobody open!) and set floats (run out of gas over 60 on highway!) then sync the carbs, and hopefully I will find a colortune since I sold mine with my XJ

So as far as this bike goes, I think I'll ride as is for a few weeks, then have my buddy help me pull the motor and do the guide. While he's doing that, I'll reclean the carbs and clean up some of the bike frame while it's out.

Thanks again guys.

 

[inxs]

- 150 is great, under 100 not...main thing is theyre more or less the same, have noted that the rhs is often a little weaker-may have something to do with it tending to run hotter on the right

- pay to adjust the camchain as best you can and then the valves...

- did you check the larger filter-sieve in the sump...is often holed

 

[Sundie]

I ran mine for 5 years with a 1/2 blown head gasket, not caring if it blew up. It refused to. I'm fairly sure you can make it to the end of the summer.

 

[dpawl31]

150psi is great, then why am I showing 165? I probably did it wrong?

 

[xsjohn]

If it's not the cam chain guide which it probably is though or if you need to lift the barrels .....and it was running good other than the matal......lift the barrels carefully and leave the rings in the bore and pull the piston pins.....saves a new breakin and associated wear.....xsjohn

 

[dpawl31]

Thanks for the tip... it has to be the guide though, right?

And there is only one, correct?

Anyone have a link to full blown up schematics of the motor? The manual online is not-so-hot in the 'photo department'.

 

[xsjohn]

Looks like the guide to me........ all those parts went through the oil pump so I would check that for possible damage ....sump filter also....... xsjohn

 

[dpawl31]

I think my buddy wants to tear the WHOLE motor down, so... I'll probably get to look at ALL of that

 

[inxs]

it has to be the guide though, right?

And there is only one, correct?

Anyone have a link to full blown up schematics of the motor? The manual online is not-so-hot in the 'photo department'.

- there are 2 guides-the front one is the one that wears mostly and leo is right you can replace it without removing the barrels, make sure its straight though...the rear needs the barrels removed

- a picture file

- for schematics your best bet are parts manuals..find some here

- or an overview