Well this is !%#ing great...

The oil flows from the sump into the sump filter, through some passages to the pump, from the pump through some passages to the sidecover filter, from the side cover filter through some passages to the rest of the engine.
Before my last computer crash I had a diagram showing the oil flow in the engine. It was a cut away pic of the engine showing the circuits.
One of these days I ought to finish going through the datd I recovered.
 
- one of these?

xsengine.jpg


- or

P6150002-1.jpg


- pressure delivery to

a - crankshaft main bearings
b - con rod big end
c - transmission, main axle
d - clutch bearing
e - shift fork guide bar
f - rocker arms

- all but f also lubricated by oil splash
 
Amazing! Thanks man!

I have bits in the fine filter, which means it went through a hole in the sump filter, through the pump, and then to fine filter. FANTASTIC. lol
 
- yeah, but normal...pump often cracks through the thin part of the rotor...the following pic is a good one, but youll get the idea

BWpQCtBGkKGrHgoH-DQEjlLlt51ZBKYdcrv.jpg
 
Yes those are the ones I had. I'll snag them now. Thanks.
They are both very good, the upper one is easier to picture in your mind.
The only thing they don't show clearly is how the rod big ends get the oil. They get oiled by oil getting sprayed out the holes in the front of the case from the crossdrilled oil passage.
Even after rebuilding a couple engines, until I saw those diagrams I didn't know the transmission was lubed under pressure at the bearings and shiftforks.
In the lower diagram where it shows a release valve in the oil pump, they did away with that in 74 I think, thats one year they made some changes. I think thats when they did away with the release valve. My 75 engine don't have one.
I'll check the parts list to see if it tells.
 
They list the same part #'s for all years, they show the release valve up to 73 in the pics, 74 and later the pics don't show the release valve.
 
Having a release valve is a good idea. If a blockage occurs oil can still flow.
The release valve on the pump is not the place though. At the pump, if a blockage occurs the oil is released back into the sump. The oil can stop flowing to the rest of the engine.
If the release valve is at the sidecover filter, if it gets blocked, the filter is bypassed and oil can still get to the rest of the engine.
If you keep your oil changed and filters checked, this will probably never happen.
If you neglect the oil and filter and the filter gets blocked, bypassing the filter may not help, it may be to late.
It may not help but under some conditions it may help prevent excess damage.
 
Having a release valve is a good idea. If a blockage occurs oil can still flow.

If the release valve is at the sidecover filter, if it gets blocked, the filter is bypassed and oil can still get to the rest of the engine.
If you keep your oil changed and filters checked, this will probably never happen.
If you neglect the oil and filter and the filter gets blocked, bypassing the filter may not help, it may be to late.
It may not help but under some conditions it may help prevent excess damage.

Slow agonizing grind bearings to junk with chunks of metal death rather than the more dramatic big bang, whats that sticking out of the front of my engine death.

gggGary, who looked at and offered on (owner is mulling) a rather sad and hacked on 80 special today.
 
gggGary I agree with what your saying, but that's the fellow that doesn't keep the oil changed and cleans the filter regularly.
If the owner does even a half way job of maintenance the bypass will probably never open.
 
Oh yeah 100% agree on that.
Data point: On an 81 with 5600 original miles side screen (I cannot in good conscious call that a filter) had what appears to be some small shavings of aluminum, most likely refugees from manufacturing that escaped the factory wash and rinse. I pulled the sump filter , screen was torn, no chunks there, drain plugs, sump pan had only some black goo.
 
If your kinda worried about the inside beeing clean, next oil change, after draining refill with a few quarts of kerosene or feul oil, deisel. What evers handy. Don't start the engine, just rock the bike around and drain it out. it will get most of the loose crud out.
The sump filter can be patched, I cut one from a soup can. I then "glued" it over the whole with JB Weld. After it dried I added more JB Weld along edges to ensure a good seal.
If you don't like JB Weld, most any good epoxy will work.
Watch the oil and filters for any more stuff the next few changes. If you keep getting stuff then worry about it. It may stop getting stuff after awhile. Then be joyess.
 
XSLeo,

Wait...wait...let me understand what you are saying....spend the better part of a day getting the sump filter out of the engine.....buy a JB Weld kit for $6.....patch and repair the sump filter......put it all back together and hope it holds?

The sump filter only costs $24 at Mikes. Replace it and don't rev the engine so high when its cold. Should last 15 Years or more. I'm up to 13 years on my '78/E.
 
As far as patching that thing, I'm with pete. $24 is not bad for a brand new filter, and as INXS has said, build a guard for it and it will last a longgg time!
 
Well, I had it apart, I always try to keep JB Weld around. A piece of soup can is a guard as well as a patch. It got the bike back together the next day.
I haven't had a Jb Weld fail in years, the last time it failed I tried to fix threads for a rocker box on an old Chevy Luv truck, didn't work so drilled and tapped a new hole.
As you recommend Pete I don't rev the engine cold. I start it and let it warm up while I get my gear on, then ride away.
 
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