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The caliper mounting brackets are self alineing, so just tighten up the axle and see how it looks. If it does not aline then you are missing some axle parts.
I have all the axle parts according to the manual. and have tightened everything down in about every sequence I could possibly try. I'm thinking I have a funky rotor I will take them off and measure the height tomorrow
Wait a minute, I just realized I was thinking about the back wheel caliper bracket. Your picture is obviously the front wheel.
OK, the caliper bracket is bolted to the fork lugs. In your picture, it appears that the caliper bracket is not alined with the fork leg??? Do you have an extra shim washer on one lug by any chance???
The calipers are supposed to move slightly when you apply the brake and "self center" themselves. They're mounted on rubber sleeves in the carrier. If you hook the brakes up and apply them several times, maybe that will happen.
It's not the caliper that is dragging its the bracket that the calipers float on. It should stay in a fixed position as they are bolted to the forks. I have driven bike a bit hoping every thing would center it self but no luck. the rotors are at a fixed width as they are bolted to the wheel and the brackets should be at a fixed width as they are bolted to the fork legs. Now I'm assuming it's the rotors
Is your front end assembled correctly? Are each of your forks on the correct side and the rotors mounted the right direction? Thats just just the first thing that came to my mind because im pretty sure I've messed it up in the past
You'd be surprised how much difference powder coating can make. It's thicker than you think. I ran into problems lacing a powder coated rear hub. The spoke holes were too filled with powder. The spoke heads wouldn't seat in far enough and some of the spokes bowed when I tried to tighten them.
took the powder off the bracket the forks the back side of the rotor and the wheel it's a little better but now check the gap at the speedo drive. and no the legs are not bent new stanchions where installed as well
The Rotor does not appear parallel with the fork leg and the caliper bracket is not parallel with the fork leg in the opposite direction . . .
Are you sure your speedo drive notch at the top is fitting into the slot of the fork leg ! ! ! It appears to be holding out there ! ! !
Nope if I loosen the cap screws I can push the leg in to seat the speedo drive fully against the leg. I don't think my fork seal would last to long like that though
I think you've gone as far as you can short of filing material off the fork leg tabs and carrier brackets. Both calipers could be moved outward slightly more and that's the only way I see to do that. I'm not sure why the speedo drive is moved in like that. It wasn't before and the powder you removed shouldn't have had any influence on axle position.
Actually it was like that before I'm going to pull the wheel and see if the allballs replacement bearings that I installed are thinner than the originals.
It looks like you have done the twin disc setup. Maybe your left side carrier, or both, are from the xs1100, which had thinner rotors. Yours look like the stock 7mm, instead of 5mm found on the 1100. Try and find some of the nice slotted rotors from the 1100 and you should be good to go.
With the axle nut tight that side lines up ok, then on the side with the cap and nuts loosen the capnuts and move the fork over till the rotor is centered in the bracket. It won't hurt the seal. That's how I do mine.
On my Harley with the dual disc brakes you use a drill bit that just fits the hole in the axle and with the cap nuts loose pull the fork over against the drill bit. This centers the rotor in the bracket.
Harley's been doing it that way for years without problems so it can work for you to.
Leo
Did you by chance check your upper portion of the fork tube to see if it is slightly bent ? I just took my forks apart and found mine slightly bent and IF positioned just right it caused your same problem and I thought of you. And YES I am replacing my front forks.