What have you done to your XS today?

I got lucky on that one years ago Pete. Burned out my spare fuses on the road. Called one of my boys to bring me some spares from the shop.

Luckily it started again and I turned for home. Hit the bump at the bottom of the driveway and it blew again. Got it in the shop, doors closed, lights off, nice and dark. New fuse, turned the key on, saw the spark on the harness, fixed the harness.
Great idea, Robin. Similar to what we used to do back in the days to check for weak spark plug wires and bad distributer caps on the cars: mist the engine with water at night, then run the car and look for sparks on the surfaces.
 
There ya Go RobinC !!!!! use the dark to show the way ! good thinking !
Pete you might try that with the key on , new fuse and bounce on the frame vigerously and see if you can see it arc....
get an extra pare of eyes out there to help ya because it's hard to watch for sparks when your bouncing on the pegs !!!!!
.....
Bob.
 
As part of the TX650A dip and strip, I added in a Sportster tank to clean off several coats of paint,fully expecting it to be a bondo extravanza. I was suprised when I picked it up that it had not one dent in it!
The temporary rust prevention applied by the dipper was loosing its effect, so today I made a rinse of a bit of motor oil and gasoline and swished it around inside the tank, drained it, then sprayed varsol over the outside, used some 220 grit to clean up the rust and applied some Krylon rattle can clear. Presto!
 

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Nice tank! .... Today I changed a bulb in the tach display (that was tricky getting those bulbs back in their holes) and took off the 37 year old chain. Man, it was tough taking the chain guard off. I had to remove a plastic fender thingy just to get a wrench on the nut and the left side shock to slip it out. Lol. Fun :)

Prepping to put new sprockets and chain on this weekend. It's was a dirty mess under the left cover and rear wheel so lots of cleaning to do first. See pics of cover before and after. Mostly dirt and some grease. Came off fairly easy with grease remover and a scrub brush, it's not perfect but I lost interest in cleaning after an hour.

But there's hard grease stuck everywhere around the front sprocket that I really want off. Yuck. Any advice on cleaning it?

While I was there cleaned that darn worm thingy ... again... 3rd time now... adjusted, inspected lubed... no cracks in the plastic and brand new cable but the darn clutch is still super stif and neutral is tough to find when warm. I'll have to tackle this asap as it's basically non rideable in this state. I can't imagine sitting in a traffic jam feathering a clutch this stiff. Dangerous IMO. There must be something wrong on the right side of the case with the clutch mechanisms. There are lots of posts on this topic.. I know. I've read a lot but there does not seem to be an common solution :(

Anyways. I'm going with 530 stock front 17 and 32 teeth back based on a lot of opinions on the forum. Thanks everyone!!!

I also put my kid to work cleaning the surface rust off some chrome with Diet Coke, flour and tin foil. Worked only so so imo...,. I might try aluminum powder and vinegar next. I hear that works well.

Still waiting for my new brake hoses from china :) I'm hoping soon! Got them from banggood. . The tracking number says "tracking in Canada is not available". Lol. :( 2 weeks seems about average based on user reviews.

I also inspected the brake pads tonight... they look fine with lots of material. But they are 37 years old. Should I replace them due to age regardless of wear?

Cheers :)
 

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Guss80special, I cleaned all my chrome quite easily and very quickly using a Brass wire brush and oil. The brass will not scratch the chrome and the oil just lubricates the whole process and controls the dust. If you are unsure about this method then test it out on a hidden patch of chrome like the rear fender under the seat. As the the brass bristles flatten the brush works even better. I thought my header pipes would have to be replaced but they cleaned up extremely well.
 
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Nice tank! .... Today I changed a bulb in the tach display (that was tricky getting those bulbs back in their holes) and took off the 37 year old chain. Man, it was tough taking the chain guard off. I had to remove a plastic fender thingy just to get a wrench on the nut and the left side shock to slip it out. Lol. Fun :)

Prepping to put new sprockets and chain on this weekend. It's was a dirty mess under the left cover and rear wheel so lots of cleaning to do first. See pics of cover before and after. Mostly dirt and some grease. Came off fairly easy with grease remover and a scrub brush, it's not perfect but I lost interest in cleaning after an hour.

But there's hard grease stuck everywhere around the front sprocket that I really want off. Yuck. Any advice on cleaning it?

While I was there cleaned that darn worm thingy ... again... 3rd time now... adjusted, inspected lubed... no cracks in the plastic and brand new cable but the darn clutch is still super stif and neutral is tough to find when warm. I'll have to tackle this asap as it's basically non rideable in this state. I can't imagine sitting in a traffic jam feathering a clutch this stiff. Dangerous IMO. There must be something wrong on the right side of the case with the clutch mechanisms. There are lots of posts on this topic.. I know. I've read a lot but there does not seem to be an common solution :(

Anyways. I'm going with 530 stock front 17 and 32 teeth back based on a lot of opinions on the forum. Thanks everyone!!!

I also put my kid to work cleaning the surface rust off some chrome with Diet Coke, flour and tin foil. Worked only so so imo...,. I might try aluminum powder and vinegar next. I hear that works well.

Still waiting for my new brake hoses from china :) I'm hoping soon! Got them from banggood. . The tracking number says "tracking in Canada is not available". Lol. :( 2 weeks seems about average based on user reviews.

I also inspected the brake pads tonight... they look fine with lots of material. But they are 37 years old. Should I replace them due to age regardless of wear?

Cheers :)
Your brake pads might work OK for you if they are not oil or brake fluid soaked. You could give them a try to see if they stop the bike well. Clean the rotor well with brake parts cleaner.

Clutch: Make sure it is routed correctly and has no kinks. Lube it internally really well with a good lubricant. I use an industrial Zep40 lube. If it is very old, it might be fraying inside and causing the friction. A new cable might make you very happy.
 
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Nice tank! .... Today I changed a bulb in the tach display (that was tricky getting those bulbs back in their holes) and took off the 37 year old chain. Man, it was tough taking the chain guard off. I had to remove a plastic fender thingy just to get a wrench on the nut and the left side shock to slip it out. Lol. Fun :)

Prepping to put new sprockets and chain on this weekend. It's was a dirty mess under the left cover and rear wheel so lots of cleaning to do first. See pics of cover before and after. Mostly dirt and some grease. Came off fairly easy with grease remover and a scrub brush, it's not perfect but I lost interest in cleaning after an hour.

But there's hard grease stuck everywhere around the front sprocket that I really want off. Yuck. Any advice on cleaning it?

While I was there cleaned that darn worm thingy ... again... 3rd time now... adjusted, inspected lubed... no cracks in the plastic and brand new cable but the darn clutch is still super stif and neutral is tough to find when warm. I'll have to tackle this asap as it's basically non rideable in this state. I can't imagine sitting in a traffic jam feathering a clutch this stiff. Dangerous IMO. There must be something wrong on the right side of the case with the clutch mechanisms. There are lots of posts on this topic.. I know. I've read a lot but there does not seem to be an common solution :(

Anyways. I'm going with 530 stock front 17 and 32 teeth back based on a lot of opinions on the forum. Thanks everyone!!!

I also put my kid to work cleaning the surface rust off some chrome with Diet Coke, flour and tin foil. Worked only so so imo...,. I might try aluminum powder and vinegar next. I hear that works well.

Still waiting for my new brake hoses from china :) I'm hoping soon! Got them from banggood. . The tracking number says "tracking in Canada is not available". Lol. :( 2 weeks seems about average based on user reviews.

I also inspected the brake pads tonight... they look fine with lots of material. But they are 37 years old. Should I replace them due to age regardless of wear?

Cheers :)
Hard grease: try soaking it over night with lots of WD40, then go at it with a stiff wire brush. Learn to enjoy it :) play your favorite music while cleaning, or such.
 
Sounds like a Cable Routing problem to me too Dude ! I bet somewhere under the gas tank there is a extra bend in the clutch cable that shouldn't be there....
My XS650 has a hard clutch pull but not overly hard i think they all do, but there are Mods you can try that may help ease the pull in the Technical section.... but if you haven't lubed the clutch cable yet you've missed the boat ! take the cable completely out take a sandwich baggy
poke a small hole in the baggy ( in the bottom corner) and stick one end through and use a rubber band to tie the baggy onto the cable put about a 1/4Cup of 90wt gear oil ( or STP oil treatment ) in the baggy and hang it up over night be sure to tape off the bottom end of the cable with black tape and put a can under it...to catch the drips..... in the morning take off the black tape and let it drain.... all day...
then re install .....( while it's hanging move the cable a few times and spin it with your fingers)
this works a treat for old cables and also helps throttle cables as well.
but more than likely the main problem is the cable routing and if that's good then I'ed look into the worm gear, make sure it's Lubed real good with grease !
.....
you'ed be surprised at how much lubing your cables like this HELPS !....... seriously !!!!!!
....
Bob.........
 
Ok. Thanks guys. I will lube the new cable as described. As for routing, I've seen pics of the clutch cable routed to the front, back and under the carbs. Mine runs to the back of the carbs currently. I've tried all 3 ways plus no route at all (I.e. tank off, big wide arch from handle to case). All exactly the same - stiff. The new cable pulls only marginally better than the old one. Here comes the lube :) cheers.
 
Brass and oil eh? Hmm. I'll try it. My header pipes are dark blue. I didn't think anything would remove that, but I'll try. Thanks again for the tips!
 
Ok. Thanks guys. I will lube the new cable as described. As for routing, I've seen pics of the clutch cable routed to the front, back and under the carbs. Mine runs to the back of the carbs currently. I've tried all 3 ways plus no route at all (I.e. tank off, big wide arch from handle to case). All exactly the same - stiff. The new cable pulls only marginally better than the old one. Here comes the lube :) cheers.
Sorry, I should have read that you got a new cable already.
 
Ok. Thanks guys. I will lube the new cable as described. As for routing, I've seen pics of the clutch cable routed to the front, back and under the carbs. Mine runs to the back of the carbs currently. I've tried all 3 ways plus no route at all (I.e. tank off, big wide arch from handle to case). All exactly the same - stiff. The new cable pulls only marginally better than the old one. Here comes the lube :) cheers.
There is a thread or two about modding the arm of the worm gear to achieve a better angle and force, but it does seem that you have an issue somewhere.

Here is one:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/
 
View attachment 105380 View attachment 105378 View attachment 105377 View attachment 105374 View attachment 105373 View attachment 105372


Nice tank! .... Today I changed a bulb in the tach display (that was tricky getting those bulbs back in their holes) and took off the 37 year old chain. Man, it was tough taking the chain guard off. I had to remove a plastic fender thingy just to get a wrench on the nut and the left side shock to slip it out. Lol. Fun :)

Prepping to put new sprockets and chain on this weekend. It's was a dirty mess under the left cover and rear wheel so lots of cleaning to do first. See pics of cover before and after. Mostly dirt and some grease. Came off fairly easy with grease remover and a scrub brush, it's not perfect but I lost interest in cleaning after an hour.

But there's hard grease stuck everywhere around the front sprocket that I really want off. Yuck. Any advice on cleaning it?

While I was there cleaned that darn worm thingy ... again... 3rd time now... adjusted, inspected lubed... no cracks in the plastic and brand new cable but the darn clutch is still super stif and neutral is tough to find when warm. I'll have to tackle this asap as it's basically non rideable in this state. I can't imagine sitting in a traffic jam feathering a clutch this stiff. Dangerous IMO. There must be something wrong on the right side of the case with the clutch mechanisms. There are lots of posts on this topic.. I know. I've read a lot but there does not seem to be an common solution :(

Anyways. I'm going with 530 stock front 17 and 32 teeth back based on a lot of opinions on the forum. Thanks everyone!!!

I also put my kid to work cleaning the surface rust off some chrome with Diet Coke, flour and tin foil. Worked only so so imo...,. I might try aluminum powder and vinegar next. I hear that works well.

Still waiting for my new brake hoses from china :) I'm hoping soon! Got them from banggood. . The tracking number says "tracking in Canada is not available". Lol. :( 2 weeks seems about average based on user reviews.

I also inspected the brake pads tonight... they look fine with lots of material. But they are 37 years old. Should I replace them due to age regardless of wear?

Cheers :)
You said that you lubed the worm actuator; make sure that you use a heavy wheel bearing grease, thoroughly applied.
 
Can you post a closer picture of your worm gear Please ! the base and the arm side by side ????
sounds like the base is cracked ! that will cause it to jam... if you got a new cable then oiling it isn't going to do much
the cable goes from the handle bar under the top tree out side the speedo, under the tank ( but over the tank bracket hooks,by the top of the frame ), over the carbs and down to the worm gear.
all as straight and smooth curves as possible. there is 2 cables one with a bigger bend in it than the other one for early model XS650's and one for 80'`84' models
..... I have a gut feeling it's the Worm gear messing ya Up !!!!!
.....
Bob.........
 
Hi Tron311. Welcome to the site.
Hard to find factory tins in such nice shape and I have never seen blue ones in "the wild". I would say get it working well and ride it a bit before you make any non-reversable mods to it. There are lots of unloved Specials out there, many partly disassembled and shoved in a corner to be creative with.
 
bought this lil beaut last weekend. leaning toward keeping it stock but the pull to make it a tracker is strong...

Don't get to see a bike in this condition these days...........A good spit and polish and this will look as good as new...........Rare to find these in good condition like this now...........Get rid of that seat and buy a period correct or get the seat redone to a style you want..............Be surprised what that will do to the aesthetics of the bike...........as said there are plenty of half done bike out there that can be chopped as per a dream.
 
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