What have you done to your XS today?

Hi Crash,
oh yes, lower straighter bars ride far nicer than the stock rototillers.
You may find that the stainless brake hose increases the wooden feel that's a result of the stock front brake master cylinder being too big for the front caliper.
My fix was to add a leftside caliper and disk but a smaller master cylinder works too.
 
all things being equal: which will make the bike stop faster? second disc or smaller m/c?

The added disk would stop better than smaller MC in my opinion.
I did a brembo up grade and that is better yet.
I upgraded from dual oem calipers to a 4 piston brembo and it is much better braking
full
 
I'm for the smaller MC, with the aggressive 650 Central pads and SS line it is very well matched to way I ride a 650. 2-3 finger braking, not quite as strong as a sport bike but an XS just doesn't want to get pushed THAT hard anyways. Would you get fade if you REALLY worked it? Yeah probably. But again how long are you going to push an XS that hard? But hey you want the bling of two disks don't let me stop you. Swapping to a more modern caliper does seem reasonable but I haven't gotten that done yet. On a low power bike weight matters, unsprung weight always matters.
 
+1 for single disc, but with updated mc, lines and pad. This bike is meant for around town putt putt.

For beating on a bike, I've got an 2005 SV650 with GSXR front end for that kind of abuse.
:bike:
 

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all things being equal: which will make the bike stop faster? second disc or smaller m/c?

Hi Crash,
I see you decided on s/st lines and smaller m/c.
I upgraded to s/st lines because the originals were way past their "best before" date and went to dual disks for the looks of it.
The improved feel was a bonus.
Twin disks add unsprung weight.
Single disk fades quicker.
Either works as well as the other in a single emergency stop.
 
Polishing a 2into1 , Yup Gary , that one ...


pics to follow


~kop
 

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Found out that while 6 overs look cool the seat position also has to be considered and running in line with the frame rails does not work Bikes still in mockup so no biggie just got to get a couple of mini shocks off ebay and raise the back of the seat to a comfortable and practical angle you live and learn
 

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The 79 std had a flat spot off idle right where the clutch releases, which is danged annoying. So dropped the bowls and raised the floats I hadn't checked them the first time I was in there, they were over 25 now a bit under 24 with the gasket on. back together with another round of idle speed and mix screw and it's getting real close. Wonder if raising the taper jet a notch would help.
All stock. uni foam on the stock air filter frames. Timing, cam chain, valves set, stock exhaust in great shape. 27.5 pilots and 130 mains in 78-79 carbs. idles low and smooth. making good power. I do have a set of 30 pilots on the shelf. (Mikuni).

This makes dropping and re-installing the bowls easy.

20150429_083617.jpg 20150429_083730.jpg

slightly modified fleabay angle drill adapter.
 
I got it dirty.

May31_1.jpg


May31_2.jpg


The Mountain Loop Road between Granite Falls and Darrington.

It is running very well, but every now and then - maybe 4 times in 6 hours today, it feels like someone turns the key off for an instant. Once twice in succession, the others just once. Very odd. On an open stretch I ran it up to 90 without any hiccups and I ran down I-5 from Arlington to 145th at 70 and it never missed a beat. Seems to happen with little or no throttle between 35 and 55mph. PMA and Pamco system.

Suggestions gratefully accepted.

175 miles took 3.5 gallons so no complaints there.
 
Decided I wanted turn signals. Managed to find a place to stash the flasher and to squeeze three more wires through. Added a trailer module so my two rear bullet lights would function as stop/turn/tail lights. Had turn signals for approximately 15 seconds before the cheap Chinese switch self-destructed. :(
 
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