What have you done to your XS today?

Got to do some painting:bike:
 

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Fueled up and checked fuel mileage for the week. Mainly in-town commute some 55mph two lane 35 miles per day. 59 mpg. I love these PVK carbs from EX500.
 
rode around block thrice. hesitation on throttle i'm thinking 140 is not the right main jet, will get 135s next week and hagerty and tags. starts 1 kick after 2 prime strokes, far better than i remember.
 

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carbon "So gggGary ya keeping all those cool bikes?" the HS is going to my painter for jobs done. For now the 2 79's are staying. The 73 will be looking for a new home in a few weeks, I have a different 73 I am working on.


Wrench Johns;

650carbspecsreducedsizeey7.png


How they came from the factory.
 
Last night I had the intentions of draining the oil, changing the oil sump filter, the oil crank case filter, and pulling my carbs if possible in prep for new intake boots this weekend.

I wanted to take a look to see how my clutch pushrod seal was holding up (and it appears to be free of any leaks), but while in there decided it'd be a good time to change the gasket on the gear train cover - as I'm fairly confident its been leaking (hard to tell with chain lube that gets flung off down there dirtiying up everything).

I'll be honest, I did not do much research on what was behind the cover. Bike was on the center stand (engine still in frame...) and what I thought would be a half hour project turned into a 2(+) hour struggle. Finally ended up taking the gear train off (wish I had done it far earlier than I did...) and even then, was a total pain getting the gasket to seat properly while getting the locating pins on the cover/engine to sit properly. Ended up getting each bolt just barely threaded to ensure the gasket was at least held in place, and then started the very long, slow process of turning in each bolt 1/8th to 1/2 turn at a time in a star pattern to seat the cover. I couldn't get my torque wrench in there so I just did everything by hand with a small wrench (a ratcheting box wrench would have been a nice thing to have.). Didn't break any bolts, so hopefully its set. Was almost wrapped up and realized the gear train wasn't put back on, so I had to back off the middle bolt, stick the gear train back on, and rebolt it up.

It never ceases to amaze me how long some things take, at least on the first go-around. Maybe its just me, but I was far under prepared and under-beered for the what I got myself into.
 
Last night I had the intentions of draining the oil, changing the oil sump filter, the oil crank case filter, and pulling my carbs if possible in prep for new intake boots this weekend.

I wanted to take a look to see how my clutch pushrod seal was holding up (and it appears to be free of any leaks), but while in there decided it'd be a good time to change the gasket on the gear train cover - as I'm fairly confident its been leaking (hard to tell with chain lube that gets flung off down there dirtiying up everything).

I'll be honest, I did not do much research on what was behind the cover. Bike was on the center stand (engine still in frame...) and what I thought would be a half hour project turned into a 2(+) hour struggle. Finally ended up taking the gear train off (wish I had done it far earlier than I did...) and even then, was a total pain getting the gasket to seat properly while getting the locating pins on the cover/engine to sit properly. Ended up getting each bolt just barely threaded to ensure the gasket was at least held in place, and then started the very long, slow process of turning in each bolt 1/8th to 1/2 turn at a time in a star pattern to seat the cover. I couldn't get my torque wrench in there so I just did everything by hand with a small wrench (a ratcheting box wrench would have been a nice thing to have.). Didn't break any bolts, so hopefully its set. Was almost wrapped up and realized the gear train wasn't put back on, so I had to back off the middle bolt, stick the gear train back on, and rebolt it up.

It never ceases to amaze me how long some things take, at least on the first go-around. Maybe its just me, but I was far under prepared and under-beered for the what I got myself into.

Nobody ever said, working on old classic bikes was going to be easy. 2 or 3 hours is a very small portion of the rest of your life:D

Seriously though, last time I replaced the starter gears cover, I put a small amount of threebond 1104 on the gasket. That makes the gasket stick to the cover, so it can't move around during assembly. Some people have been known to use grease or oil to accomplish the same thing.
 
Rode the resto to town to mail out some parts. Then spent 2 MORE hours sticking the rest of the plastic body parts back on the K1200 after a failed brake line replacement and an ABS brake system bleed.:banghead: :banghead: How sweet it will be to go back to simple bikes like an XS650. Good news is the land yacht seems to be fully operational, it did 40 miles tonight, stereo blasting, cruise control set, seat and bar heaters on medium. I starting thinking I might wander below and get a beer out of the galley..... A few serious lever grabs showed the ABS is functioning correctly and with the power brakes really hauls that pig down from high speed in a hurry. Burp. First brake test was down my steep gravel driveway in the rain last night, grabbed a big hand full of front and it stopped the bike quick and straight!
 
Got some things up front inspected, cleaned, painted, and reassembled. Also decided that I would reuse my stock speedo until I can afford/find a good mini speedo with the right ratio (dimecity has one that looks great but I'd rather save my money for the time being). I used a couple spare angle brackets and center-mounted the original speedo for a more stripped down look. So far I think I'm digging it. Now that I've cleaned up my triple clamp, headlight bucket, and upper forks the rest of the bike looks filthy. I really need to roll it out of my little shop and get the thing washed so I can repaint the frame.
 
And I decided to let someone else have that advancer!!! :wink2:


Not even kidding, I had a feeling you might have been a possibility. I know your eBay game is top notch, thank you much! I had to pull over with kids in the car to watch the seconds tick down, lol.
 
polished the left engine cover, looks good. then went on to grease the worm, it's cracked! and it's three screw. ordered a later 4 screw unit from mikesxs and am hoping it can be used since it seems to be the only game in town
 
Starter delete, push-rod seal replace, clutch push-rod upgrade to one-piece, oil change. Now I found another drip from the shift shaft seal. Might get to it before I move to CO. Waiting on HHB bolt-on oil cooler. Is it possible to install oil cooler without draining oil or not? If I have to drain oil, i'm going to re-use it, and tackle the shift shaft seal while she's empty.
 
Was out riding yesterday, normal cheesy grin of course... and as I pulled up to a stoplight, bike hovering at 1200rpm and it started to stumble...and died. Odd...started right back up and I looked at the voltmeter and battery is at 12.2, so I rev the engine to 3000 and it doesn't go above 12.6...huh? I head home, and again any time I pull up to a stop, bike begins to stall out. So I adjust the idle to 1500 and it does fine getting me home.

Today I start my testing... but figure I should do a tune up while I'm at it: cam chain...a little loose, so it gets adjusted; valves intakess .003,
 
Oops...typing too fast.

Exhaust .008, so I get them to .006; timing good, carbs way off....hmmm. so I adjust them and they stay in sync, check for air leaks...good, and still stumbles. Also, bike feels weak?

Pull the spark plugs, left side looks great. Right side covered in soot/black. I replace it and bike fires great! Strong and sounds good. So now I'm wondering if the air/fuel screws are off...so I do dead cylinder test and left side is great at 2 1/4, but right side is way too rich...I get it down to 2 turns and seems good. No more blacked/sooty plug and bike pulls strong.

But this doesn't address the charging issue, so I test the rotor...not great 3ohms ring to ring. Stator, good...rectifier, corroded wires, and looks fried...regulator, ok.

So I think I'm in the market for a new rotor and likely get a combo reg/rec.

So I suppose a mixed bag of a day. Lol

Sorry for the long post. :)
 
I mounted the new horn, stared at the wiring, installed new gas cap seal and am having a key cut for gas cap lock, taking my upper brake line in to get shortened, stared at the wiring, robbed the steel lower brake line from the '72 and installed on the '73, stared at the wiring, painted the left side foot peg and the modified battery box and stared at the wiring.
I have come to the conclusion that I've done everything that I can do myself and now have contacted a shop in town that specialize in all vintage motorcycles to possibly complete the wiring and plumb and tune the carbs. Basically to just get it running after two years of "tinkering". I just want to get it on the road this summer and life (an amazing and patient wife and a fantastic 3 yr old daughter and 2 1/2 month old son) has slowed to the progress.
I just want to go for a ride with my Dad.
 
Oops...typing too fast.

Exhaust .008, so I get them to .006; timing good, carbs way off....hmmm. so I adjust them and they stay in sync, check for air leaks...good, and still stumbles. Also, bike feels weak?

Pull the spark plugs, left side looks great. Right side covered in soot/black. I replace it and bike fires great! Strong and sounds good. So now I'm wondering if the air/fuel screws are off...so I do dead cylinder test and left side is great at 2 1/4, but right side is way too rich...I get it down to 2 turns and seems good. No more blacked/sooty plug and bike pulls strong.

But this doesn't address the charging issue, so I test the rotor...not great 3ohms ring to ring. Stator, good...rectifier, corroded wires, and looks fried...regulator, ok.

So I think I'm in the market for a new rotor and likely get a combo reg/rec.

So I suppose a mixed bag of a day. Lol

Sorry for the long post. :)

Those combo rec/reg units are quite expensive. Its much,much cheaper to buy a 3 phase rectifier from Ebay, and also use a nos automotive regulator.
 
Those combo rec/reg units are quite expensive. Its much,much cheaper to buy a 3 phase rectifier from Ebay, and also use a nos automotive regulator.

Yep, I was debating which route to go...but I found one for $65 on amazon. So I figured that would be just about what I would have into it if I did it on my own with connectors, etc.

:)
 
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