PS your headlight will not light unless the motor is running and the charging system working. Other lights tail brake turn etc will work whenever key is turned on.
Here's an original fuse box. It was strapped on top of the battery .....
All those loose wires you have were wrapped into harnesses and routed down along both sides of the battery.
Also note the battery. As I mentioned earlier, the one you have isn't the correct one. The terminals should be reversed. The positive should be on the right and the negative on the left, as seated on the bike.
Eliminating it would involve investing hundreds in a PMA setup. That job is most likely beyond your current abilities.I see.. don’t know if it would be easier to invest in another battery or eliminate it all together.
Eliminating it would involve investing hundreds in a PMA setup. That job is most likely beyond your current abilities.
A new sealed lead acid should be well under a hundred bucks at your local auto parts. That's gonna be your best and cheapest bet.
Assuming your battery is the correct one, take it with you and ask for an inexpensive replacement. You'll need to leave it with them for the core charge anyway. Put up a pic here when you remove it and someone will advise if it's the correct one or not.Anything in particular I should look for?
Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.
Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test
Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.
The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$
Get rid of it
You might well be right. It’s a lot for a novice, but with our help he may succeed.Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.
Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test
Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.
The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$
Get rid of it
Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.
Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test
Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.
The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$
Get rid of it
Classic bikes are generally easier to understand, no computers for starters.I know what you mean and I know you mean well when you say it, but I’m all in man. In hindsight I could have gotten a Honda Spree or something. It was dumb to just go and buy a classic bike with no experience but I don’t regret it at all. Got nothing else to spend time and money on, already signed up for my safety program course which will help me get my endorsement. And I’m still doin’ my homework dude. Haha. Yeah she’s got her issues, but owning her is still fun to me. Can’t wait to find out what year the engine really is and to throw a new battery in.
- Palace
It is someones hack job. And the way it has been left doesn't inspire confidence............. Need to make a list of what to do.
I'v said my piece and given information, (links to a tutorial), required and where the work needs to be started from twice..
I'll be watching the progress.
I'm not sure if you need to take the carbs off the angle bar to do most of what you need to do?
I'm sure others will chip in . . .