Wheel Lacing, Please help

[Vansnxtweek]

Hey guys, I'm trying to lace my rims and I keep running into issues. Unfortunately, not the same one each time. What I did was I put in all the inner spokes on one side, then I put in all the inners on the other side. They all seemed to go as they should. Now I'm at the outers for the first side and they are going in fine, but it doesn't seem right to me. I have two spokes going in side by side that I don't feel like they should. The crossing area of the two spokes seems to close to the rim. I know this is hard to understand through words, but hopefully you all can help. The only thing I could think of is that I started the whole thing in the wrong hole, but I swear its right. I did the top side inners going counter clockwise, found a hole that seemed to be at the right angle (first one next to valve stem hole), then I went to 6:28 on the bottom and went the opposite direction. From the top spoke to the lower spoke at the 6:28 position, there are 5 spokes in between where they go into the rim.

Here is a picture:

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Update, just for guys in my same position, I think I got this right now. It seems when I went to do my 2nd inner side I positioned the spokes one hole off. For future reference (correct me if I'm wrong grown ups) when you place in your first 2nd side inner (at the 6:28) position, it should have 6 open holes between it and the next inner spoke from the first side. This made mine line up correctly.

Look correct?

 

[5twins]

I think you've got it right. You want an inner from each flange on either side of the valve stem hole. Then the inners attach every 4 holes on the rim from there, outers will do the same. An inner and outer on the same flange that are right next to each other and cross up tight near the hub are 6 holes apart on the rim .....

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Ahhhhh I didn't know that about the valve stem hole!! I was kind of shooting in the dark on where to start with the other sides inner first one. That helps a lot for starting my rear.

Thanks!! I feel like I should get some one else to true these bad boys. What's ya'll's take on this?

 

[5twins]

Yes, get those two spokes right by the valve stem and the rest should fall in place. The truing isn't too difficult but can be time consuming. If your rims are steel, they're easier than alloy ones. A cheap dial indicator and magnetic base from HF is all I use. Run-out spec both up & down and side to side is 2mm. That's about .080". I routinely, and quite easily I might add, get mine to within .010". You can't even see that with the naked eye as they spin.

For doing the up/down run-out, I find the bottom edge of most rims usually too rough to use the gauge on. I just use a pointer there.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Dang you're making me want to try this. At what tension do you start trying to do this? I'm not sure what kind of torque value spokes get.

Got the rear one done in about 20 min!!

Glad they gave me extras...

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[racerdave]

WTF is dope tension?

 

[angus67]

dope tension is the vacuum produced when calibrating a turbo encabulator.
were did you get your spokes? are they the cadmiums from mikes?

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Damn auto correct. I've been bitching about this phone all day. At what tension was what I meant to say.

They are stainless spokes. Pretty nice!

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[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hahaha, don't feel alone. There's actually a website dedicated to this:

http://www.damnyouautocorrect.com/16019/the-top-10-funniest-autocorrected-gifts

 

[Vansnxtweek]

It's so annoying!!!

Well I think I got the rear good enough. I got it all within .010" so I'm calling that good. I feel I got the torque tight enough but I'm going to do a check right after the first ride. No spoke noise when I tighten them but they are def tight.

We will see!

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[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Just for reference, here's a good thread on wheel lacing/truing:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=368.msg205745#msg205745

If you oil the spoke threads and nipples, try to avoid spoke torque values above 30 in-lbs, about 7-8 lbs on a 4" spoke wrench...

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Thanks for the info!!

I got em all done. You all helped a ton.

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[pamcopete]

5twins,

You are the resident expert on wheels and lacing. I want to lace a 36 spoke 16" rim to a hub from a 36 spoke 18" wheel. Is that possible?

 

[5twins]

Well, I'm no expert for sure, I'm always still learning as I go. In fact, I just learned a bit more recently that I'll relate below, but as to your question, there should be no problem putting the 16" rim on that hub that originally had the 18". As far as I know, the hubs were all the same. But, there have been problems reported with some of the 16" spokes from Mike's. Apparently, the dimensions aren't quite right, in particular the bent end on the outers that hooks into the hub is a little short. This causes the spokes to bow. Run like that, the heads will start breaking off.

Now, on to my recent discovery and addition to my wheel knowledge. I always knew that it was recommended to check new spokes for tightness after running the wheel for a while, maybe a few hundred miles, because new spokes can settle in and loosen up. Well, I have felt them and never found any blatantly loose, but I never did take a wrench to them. I've now learned that I should have grabbed that spoke wrench again, lol. I just mounted a new front tire on one of my wheels. This was a brand and tread pattern (Shinko 712) I had never used before. When I put the wheel on the bike, I had a slight shimmy in the front end. I went through everything, balance, proper mounting of the tire and wheel, I even changed the wheel bearings, all to no avail. I put my spare wheel on with a tire like I had just replaced (Cheng Shin 906) and all was well again, no shimmy. So, either I had a bad new tire (very rare) or something was still amiss with that other wheel. I decided to check the spokes. Although none felt blatantly loose and all "pinged" when tapped with a plastic screwdriver handle, I took the spoke wrench to them. They all turned and tightened up more pretty easily. I went around the wheel a couple times tightening each spoke up a bit more. I put the wheel back on and the shimmy is gone. I guess my spokes weren't tight enough for that new sticky tire.

 

[pamcopete]

5twins,

OK. I will be using a MikesXS rim 34-2025 with the spoke kit 19-0058. Is that specifically the problem combination?

 

[5twins]

Here's a thread that discusses the problem and some solutions .....

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24148

Of course, the best solution would be simply if the supplier corrected the wrongly made part.

 

[pamcopete]

5twins,

Thanks for the link. I'll check with MikesXS to see if they have corrected the spoke issue and if not I will take the advise of one of the posters on the link and source the spokes elsewhere.

 

[hard_y_rd]

Can't go wrong with OEM equipment Pete. Nuff said.

 

[kopcicle]

dope tension is the vacuum produced when calibrating a turbo encabulator.
were did you get your spokes? are they the cadmiums from mikes?

~kop