wheels truing

hi chicagoland,
does anybody know guy who can true wheels? chicago and vicinity, help please...

Hi jurand,
yes, it's you.
All you will need is a good quality spoke key and a raft of patience.
If a mag wheel is visibly warped, it's FUBAR so it's wire wheels, right?
If a wire wheel rim is kinked or D-shaped it's rim is FUBAR but you can lace a new rim onto the hub.
If a wire wheel rim is still round but wobbly, THAT, you can fix.
Set the wheel up in a support so it spins free.
Spin it and hold a pencil to mark where the wobble is.
Work on the 4 or 5 spokes in the middle of the wobble.
Loosen the spokes on the high side and tighten the spokes on the low side.
Check the amount of wobble. It should be less. It's a repetitive process, keep at it until it's straight again. +/- 1/16" is good enough.
 
Hi jurand,
yes, it's you.
All you will need is a good quality spoke key and a raft of patience.
If a mag wheel is visibly warped, it's FUBAR so it's wire wheels, right?
If a wire wheel rim is kinked or D-shaped it's rim is FUBAR but you can lace a new rim onto the hub.
If a wire wheel rim is still round but wobbly, THAT, you can fix.
Set the wheel up in a support so it spins free.
Spin it and hold a pencil to mark where the wobble is.
Work on the 4 or 5 spokes in the middle of the wobble.
Loosen the spokes on the high side and tighten the spokes on the low side.
Check the amount of wobble. It should be less. It's a repetitive process, keep at it until it's straight again. +/- 1/16" is good enough.

And where in all that is the ping sound of each spoke being properly torqued? There is wobble side to side, and high and low on the radius. A little more to it than just spin the nipples a little.
 
And where in all that is the ping sound of each spoke being properly torqued? There is wobble side to side, and high and low on the radius. A little more to it than just spin the nipples a little.

Hi Dave,
nah, just that and patience.
Plus understanding that unlike the constant pings of a perfect rim newly laced into a wheel; a traumatized and re-trued wheel can have some spokes that ping and others that only thud. Mind you, the spokes that rattle should be tightened.
 
Yes, you'll never get an old rim straight if you try to make all the spokes ping the same. Just make sure they do ping and aren't loose. When I check spoke wheels, I "strum" the spokes like the strings on a harp. You can hear, sometimes even feel, the loose ones.
 
OK. I guess I was looking more for newly laced rim advice. To me that is what truing means. I have 2 19's I laced correctly {the easy part IMO}, and need them finished properly. I am not comfortable with that.
 
- - - I have 2 19's I laced correctly {the easy part IMO}, and need them finished properly. - - -

Hi Dave,
correct lacing is the hard part.
Especially remembering to insert the spokes that enter the hub from the outside first so you don't have to bend them into pretzels to get them past the others.
Truing is simple, if repetitive.
Just keep tightening each spoke in turn a little at a time until they ping nice while constantly checking the rim for truth.
 
Hi Dave,
correct lacing is the hard part.
Especially remembering to insert the spokes that enter the hub from the outside first so you don't have to bend them into pretzels to get them past the others.
Truing is simple, if repetitive.
Just keep tightening each spoke in turn a little at a time until they ping nice while constantly checking the rim for truth.

For myself, I just don't find that to be true, at least with what I am working with. New 19x2.15 aluminum rims and SS spokes from Mike's XS, onto XS front hubs. Only wheels I have ever started from scratch.

Side to side or wobble i can get "close". Out of round I can't get. Maybe this vid, which is not the best, will show what I mean. Watch the bottom bar on the table, vs the rim flange:

 
- - - Side to side or wobble i can get "close". Out of round I can't get. Maybe this vid, which is not the best, will show what I mean. Watch the bottom bar on the table, vs the rim flange: - - -

Hi Dave,
Ovality, lack of concentricity or a bit of both?
No matter, the fix is the same.
Loosening the spokes on the low side and tightening the spokes on the high side is all you need to do.
Let patience & perseverance be your watchwords.
And don't forget to check the offset, eh?
 
Hey, Dave. That wheel's close enuff for government work. But, if you want to get closer, try this:

Loosen ALL the outers.

True using only the inners. Less spokes to fool with.

Inner-only adjustments give more movement, are more 'direct', make more sense, and are less 'black magic'.

Black magic: Normally, adjustments on the near side (where you have the runout gauges) have a direct influence on the rim position. Sometimes, however, the adjustment is done at the opposite side, while observing the rim at the near side. Sometimes done to accomodate wierd/damaged rims, or the meddlesome weld. Unless you want to wear funny hats, a cloak, and start chanting in foreign languages, try to avoid this 'black art' area.

Get as close as you can with only the inners. Ensure even tightness when done with this stage.

Now start snugging the outers, a little at a time. Watch the runouts, and establish true by adjusting the outers only.

Approaching final snug on the outers, fine-tune the runouts.

Ensure that inners remain snugged. If not, snug carefully while maintaining true.

Give 'er a good spin and have a beer...:thumbsup:
 
Funny how these threads pop up at the opportune time.

I was breaking tires down this weekend and re-mounting to some rims of unknown provenance. Seems that a 36 spoke front rim has been relaced in its past and has about a 3/8" offset to the starboard side.....bugger! I'll have to break that one down again and learn some lacing/trueing.
 
ok, more about my wheels. standard 81' special II. rim and hub will be powdercoated black satin or copper red. spokes from mikexs. I can lace wheels but do not have patience for truing. still looking for somebody from chicagoland and neighborhood...
 
OK. I guess I was looking more for newly laced rim advice. To me that is what truing means. I have 2 19's I laced correctly {the easy part IMO}, and need them finished properly. I am not comfortable with that.
He was serious about that. I got both those wheels after he sold the tracker project. He had them spoked properly but spokes were still just loose, spent an hour or two each and got them trued up. Ran one of them on the resto mod til I went with the 3x18, Still have it with a nice Michelin Pilot Activ on it. Matching rear is on the bench waiting to get laced.
 
Hi jurand,
yes, it's you.
All you will need is a good quality spoke key and a raft of patience.
If a mag wheel is visibly warped, it's FUBAR so it's wire wheels, right?
If a wire wheel rim is kinked or D-shaped it's rim is FUBAR but you can lace a new rim onto the hub.
If a wire wheel rim is still round but wobbly, THAT, you can fix.
Set the wheel up in a support so it spins free.
Spin it and hold a pencil to mark where the wobble is.
Work on the 4 or 5 spokes in the middle of the wobble.
Loosen the spokes on the high side and tighten the spokes on the low side.
Check the amount of wobble. It should be less. It's a repetitive process, keep at it until it's straight again. +/- 1/16" is good enough.
 
Yep... I was scarred as hell to lace my first and only set set of wheels.
I did it on my 71 Bonneville with New Wheels and New Spokes. You can certainly do it but there is a Scarry point.
I took a rolling Butcher Block and drilled a 3/4 in hole in the center and another one in the side " both to accommodate the axle that should be mounted into the Hou.. All of the spokes need to be laced into the hub prior to bringing the wheel down over the assembly.
Observe the previous pattern from pictures captured earlier and use Blue Tape o place them in a relative correct pattern. With the hub on top of the work surface and the axle in the 3/4 in hole you drilled you have a nice work surface. Lower the rim and manipulate the spokes into the holes in the correct pattern and attach the nipples.
Do an iniital tightening on all spokes and you will be scarred to death of how crooked the wheel appears.
NOW move the wheel from the top of the work surface and move the axle into the 3/4 in hole that you drilled into the side of the work bench and you are ready to go to work. Tighten, loosen, Tighten , Loosen etc for a LONG TIME and you end up with a wheel that 's only slightly warped or a little worse. Keep at it and before you know it it begins to true up and you begin to be the guy that CAN do this. An adjustment on one side often meand a counter adjustment on the other side.
After it all looks Pretty Good, Then, do the tapping on the spokes and listening for that nice PING. It will be obvious which spokes are tight by the Ping sound and which are not by the dull thud sound. You can even get granular with it if you have good ears.

Then spin it around and look at it again. Not Happy ?? Tweak it again !! It took Me 9 hours to do my First one and and 7 to do my next one. Granted It was a rather Funky Spoke Pattern. I am Actually looking forward to my next set of wheels to true Now that I know how to do it.
 
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