Which tapered neck bearings to buy? Timken, Drop In Replacements

[HionHiFi]

While I've got my shocks apart and fresh from lowering the shocks 2 1/4", I'd like to install a fresh set of tapered bearings on my neck and shocks.

I've read alot about tapered bearing swaps that use Timken and other bearings but none actually give instructions or actual model #'s of the Timken bearings to use. For example I think the conversion my be an easy one, but I don't know which Timken model number and race to purchase from my local Napa Auto Parts or trailer supply. I do know they are from 6-9 a bearing from the supply. Just need to have a parts list to order proper kit for the conversion. Anybody know?

Are their other bearings that aren't Timken's that are an easy drop in replacement over the stock free bearings? Model's #'s please (call me lazy).

 

[pumps]

I ordered the set from mikes. Looked through the instructions on these pages. There are some part numbers on a chart in one photo.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v463/GoranXS650/XS650 Tinnis Project/Steering Bearings/
If you want to see my own work , look through the project pictures on the photobucket page . The url is in my signature.

 

[inxs]

- tapered bearing sizes, take these to your bearing shop and see what they have

- Upper: 25 x 48 x 15.2
- Lower: 30 x 48 x 15

 

[drog]

I would go with the bearings from Mike's,good quality,made in Japan.I think even Timkin bearings are now made out of "Chinesium".

 

[HionHiFi]

I think I'll pick up a set from Mike's XS. Just getting back to the rebuild.

 

[XSLeo]

Bearing sets all over ebay. Might find a better price.

 

[Gcraay]

- tapered bearing sizes, take these to your bearing shop and see what they have

- Upper: 25 x 48 x 15.2
- Lower: 30 x 48 x 15

I have a set from mikes also, but both the top and bottom are the same. They say the xs has the same top and bottom. But, from what I've read, no. My bottom race falls out and has lots of play. Who's wrong? What am I missing?

 

[Hyde]

My bottom race falls out and has lots of play. Who's wrong? What am I missing?

Had the same "WTF" moment last week, springer was knocking like a bugger. Look closely from the underside of the neck, there a slight indent of 1mm up inside the neck, which is where you potentially let the race push against thinking it to be the final position. The race has to be "gently" persuaded to sit up inside that 1mm indent with damaging it. I used the old bearing races on the lip of the new race + flathead screwdriver + rubber mallet to light nudge arround the outiside of the race till it was firmly seated. Solved my issues, potentially what you are encountering.

 

[gggGary]

They are NOT the same, the inner race is larger on the bottom set, a press fit onto stem. I keep the top bearing packaged till after the lower is installed.... The all-balls sets work fine, an ebay dealer in IL ships very quick. Probably have installed 10 sets on a lot of different brands and models, 3 sets last winter. In spite of my best efforts a reset (careful here; tapered bearings HATE overtightening) after a few hundred miles is usually necessary. Retain and reuse the stock lower seal, remove it before attacking the lower race, it will stretch over the race.

 

[5twins]

Yes, the only thing the same on the 2 bearings is the O.D. of the outer race, all other dimensions differ. The 3 number descriptions given above don't show all that or tell the whole story. Here's Goran's chart with all the dimensions. I labeled the top and bottom bearings .....

I like the All Balls sets because they come with additional grease seals. For the 650, the lower one really helps, adding lots more sealing down there. I use it along with the original. I find the included top seal doesn't do much. You can install it or leave it out, that's up to you. The better seal at the bottom is important if you have a grease fitting in the neck and keep it pumped full of grease. With just the original seal on the bottom, that grease constantly oozes out and makes quite a mess. The only up side to this is that bottom bearing is constantly self-lubing itself, lol.

 

[gggGary]

Made a driver out of an old race welded to a capped piece of pipe that I can hammer on. Then bought a tusk bearing press. Press is on flea bay, went back to the ho-made tool. The sound when hammering makes a distinct change when the bearing seats. Much more of a ting than a wunk. LOL The trick is making sure it's going in straight and seats ALL the way around.

 

[5twins]

I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I've accumulated enough old ball races now, some so bad they're no good for anything else but pounding on, lol. My usual routine has been to use the old ball races and a block of hardwood to tap the new races in. It's a bit fiddly for the bottom one. A welded together tool would be better.

 

[Gcraay]

Had the same "WTF" moment last week, springer was knocking like a bugger. Look closely from the underside of the neck, there a slight indent of 1mm up inside the neck, which is where you potentially let the race push against thinking it to be the final position. The race has to be "gently" persuaded to sit up inside that 1mm indent with damaging it. I used the old bearing races on the lip of the new race + flathead screwdriver + rubber mallet to light nudge arround the outiside of the race till it was firmly seated. Solved my issues, potentially what you are encountering.

I just had my own wtf moment. I cleaned the underside to well. The other half of the old race was still there. I finally just took an old engine mount bolt and popped it out. It looked like the finished inside of the neck. Duh! Thanks for the reply.

 

[gggGary]

Gcraay Quote "I always state the obvious that way I'm always right. "

 

[racerdave]

All Balls is a good set to buy.

 

[Gcraay]

All Balls is a good set to buy.

Hears something I noticed. one bearing is silver, the other black. but what goes where? I always love those parts that don't come with even a single instruction. Just hear good luck.

 

[xjwmx]

I'm doing fine with ball bearings in the neck. Recently I bought some All Balls rear wheel bearings. The right side seal was strange. Painted green instead of covered with rubber and not sure but seemed too high, like it might be crushed by the rear brake plate ('81) Cringing too much to really investigate. I reused the old seal which was also All Balls, but looked a lot better/

 

[gggGary]

Hears something I noticed. one bearing is silver, the other black. but what goes where? I always love those parts that don't come with even a single instruction. Just hear good luck.

Keep them as sets, the one with the smaller ID goes on top. Post #10 shows all the dimensions.